Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Gregory Bald Azalea Hike 2014


Gregory Bald azaleas and butterfly.


Gregory Bald Azalea Hike

Sunday June 22, 2014

12 miles round trip

Dana Koogler
Jeff Cole
Mitch & Rhonda Reagan
  

Pictures are here starting with frame 86
 Gregory Bald 2014 Pix



      I hiked to Gregory Bald this azalea season with friends.  I mistakenly thought
that Jeff had been before.  It turned out I was the only one who had ever been before.
I have been to GB via every trail in an assortment of trips over the years.  I have backpacked it.
I have day hiked it.    We day hiked it this time. We met at the Townsend Wye and carpooled.
We agreed on Gregory Ridge Trail out and back.  We also agreed to a super early start at dawn to avoid making the climb during the heat of the day.   All good decisions.  It is a long, steep climb 
no matter how you go.  We managed to avoid the worst of the heat and the mud by going this way.
 I had a good time getting to know Jeff, Rhonda and Mitch better. They are great folks and the more I get to know them the better I like them.   They are all great sports about the pain and
suffering of a long, tough climb.    We just took our time and made the best of it. 

     Gregory Ridge is a gradual ascent which helps. The trail is usually in good condition and 
it was a lot better than the rutted, muddy, horse shit trough of Gregory Bald Trail.   We enjoyed
the roar of Forge Creek along the way. We got to see old growth, big trees!  The rosebay rhododendron was putting on a pretty in pink show down at the lower elevations.  Up high
we were met with every shade of color of the native hybrid azaleas.    Don Hyatt has written a good article about the hybridization process of the flowering shrubs up there which are like
no other place in the world!   Apparently the reason for the unusual amount of blending or hybridization which results in all the different forms and colors is that the necessary four species
are all present there. It has to be this way to take place.   You don't see this amount or type of 
mixing in places where there are only two species to mix.    I have over simplified the explanation, 
but that is it in a nutshell.     Hooper Bald was another place I visited and Don has written about his visit there.  It has hybrid azaleas, but not in the amounts and wide varieties as Gregory Bald.

        Rather than go into a long trip report I will post mostly photos.  I was glad I decided to go.
It really was nice to spend time with friends. It was fun to see their reactions to visiting this special
place for their first time!   I learned new things about each of them that made me value them as people more and admire them more.  I consider that one of the best things about the day.
I had never waited this late in the season to go up.  It was past peak for sure, but still worth it.
The NPS is going to have to do something about the abuse of the bald by horse riders and illegal campers and builders of fires on the grassy bald.    I found that to be very upsetting.  I did not let it
ruin my day though.   I had a grand time and I look forward to the next adventure with my pals!

    
 
      
Gregory Bald is a grassy bald with shrubs and stunted trees. 

Jeff Cole engrossed in his photography!





Butterfly on an azalea shrub

Big black bear at the end of the day.. 

     I even enjoyed cruising around in Cades Cove in the back of Jeff's pickup with Rhonda.
We were looking for stuff to take pictures off. It was very laid back and groovy baby!  :-) 

Its all about the company and the experience. Thanks for sharing it with me!

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Little Creek Falls and Heintooga Auto Touring

Climbing Prairie Rose in Metcalf Bottoms area.
I had to pass this on my way to the NC side.


Little Creek Falls and Heintooga Trip

Dana Koogler solo 
Friday June 20, 2014

Hike distance 3 miles round trip

Pictures are here starting with frame 101

Heintooga Pix 


    I  was aiming for 40 miles hiked  during the month of June.  I love it so it was not hard motivating me.  I had been on a kick of really wanting to see the stuff that not everyone visits.   
I had been considering hiking to Little Creek Falls again.  I had hiked to this much less visited waterfall about eleven years ago. It is about sixty feet high and quite pretty.  I'd been putting it off
and finally I took time to consider why?  What was making me not want to go here? 

      Little Creek Falls was one I hiked when I was completing all the guidebook waterfall hikes 
in the Smokies many years ago.   The guidebook was the Charles Maynard Waterfalls of the Smoky Mountains guide.    It was the thin paperback edition.  It lists the hike as difficult and gave two options to reach it. I later learned there are three ways to approach it, but I won't go into that here.    Option number one was a convoluted, difficult 13.6 mile hike on the public trails of the 
Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Option number two was a 3 mile "difficult" hike
taking a short cut across private property and onto the trails of the National Park.
Now which one do you think I wanted to do?  I tried finding the trout farm and Cooper Road the first time only to get upset and confused and give up.  I went back with Kenny and hiked it.
We succeeded in finding it and it was an enjoyable hike.   Thanks to the short cut across private property and the need to request permission... the hike has been a dicey one over the years.
Always had to be prepared to be turned away if they said no.  I reasoned with myself that 
I was a far more experienced hiker and navigator now.  I also looked up the trout farm and saw that many improvements were made to the business which seemed to be thriving.  It was settled.
I would go!

       I loaded up the cooler with food and drinks. I packed anything I might need in the jeep.
I wanted to wear it out and not have to be home until I was ready.   I had to work Saturday so
I would have to at least get home in time to get some sleep before morning.  The weather today 
was glorious. I had clear skies and nice temperatures.  I was hoping to see some purple fringed 
orchids today if I was lucky.  My drive over through Metcalf Bottoms was pretty. I saw lots of
bright pink climbing prairie roses along the roadside.    I had to stop and check those out.
I spoke to a man who was exercising and picking up litter. You gotta love people who do good deeds like that!

       I drove on through the mountains enduring the delays of road construction on Newfound Gap 
Road.  Bright red bee balm bloomed by the road and that was pretty to see.   I also saw rhodo minus, rosebay rhodo and little bits of leftover mountain laurel along the trip.  It was not long until
I began to see purple fringed orchids peeping at me from the roadsides!  I stopped to take pictures
and enjoy the view at Newfound gap. 


Top: first purple fringed orchid of 2014 

Bottom: view from Newfound Gap 


       I considered driving out the Clingman's Dome Road, but quickly dismissed that idea.
I had a lot of my plate already for the day.   I'd do that if the spirit moved me on the way back.
I continued on toward Cherokee and once past the road work I was surprised how quickly the trip went.   No more delays.  Pretty views. Nice weather.  I was grateful for that.    I had the phone number and address of the Coopers Creek Trout Farm just in case.   My crazy GPS "Babala" 
told me to turn on Goose Creek Road. I listened to her, but had misgivings. I had not turned here before and just did not trust her.   I doubled back and went further down the road and turned at Coopers Creek Road like I did last trip.  No sense tempting fate in getting me mixed up again.
I passed the other end of Goose Creek Road on my drive in so I realized that would have been ok.
The drive in was pretty.  I saw lots of orange daylilies, nodding wild onion, and  yards dotted with roses.  Rural life is surely sweet.
Daylilies line the sides of this structure on Coopers Creek Road.


  I found the trout farm today with no worries.  The trout farm used to be a small operation that just raised trout and sold them to stock streams.   It was a rather nondescript place in the past.  It is now an actual trout pond! Here is a link to the place Coopers Creek Trout Farm & Pond

They allow parking and hiking from their place to Little Creek Falls. They ask that you do so during regular business hours. They also want you to sign in at the rental kiosk and sign out when you are done. They will instruct you where to park.  Parking to hike is up the driveway past the old cement foundation.   It is a gorgeous spot now and has had lots of improvements. I was impressed.


Top: landscaped waterfall with lilies at Coopers Creek Trout Farm
Bottom: the trout pond itself under blue skies! 


     I signed in and parked up at the trail head. I had seen another vehicle ahead of me. I absentmindedly watched another pair of hikers head down the trail before me.  We were the only ones around that I could see. I was taking photos of the stream and checking things out.  I grabbed my gear and started down the trail.   It is a pretty hike, but it is also on the rough side.  The hike here is a muddy one where stream and trail merge in more places than one.  I remembered that above all else. I also remembered there was some climb involved toward the end.  I was making my way along through one of the watery sections when I spotted people in the bushes.  I think I spooked them and they spooked me.  They came out of the woods and
we hiked along together.  I had made the acquaintance of Mark and Rosalinde Vann.  They turned out to be great people and I had a better hike for their company.   It is a little bit of a sketchy hike and we got the book out once to check directions for a turn.   They like photography and hiking too and I felt blessed to have encountered them.  It was one of those moments when I knew I was meeting someone I was supposed to meet. It may take a long time before I realize the why, but I don't mind. Today I was just glad for the company of a pair of other hikers on a hike that 
was iffy in my mind.   It was reassuring to be accompanied.   It was bonus that they are fellow Tennesseans!  It was a triple grand slam that they are those rare persons who talk when they have something to say, but can go along and not have to talk.  Sweet!  Just right.  

      Little Creek Falls is pretty and the hike seemed short since I had folks to visit with on the way.
The forest had lots of big old growth trees.  It was pretty to see the sun filter through the canopy.
The falls does have lots of debris in the way and the dappled light of that time of day did not help 
produce the most wonderful photography conditions.  I was like Mark in that I was going to be happy with a snapshot.   No sense fighting it.   I'd like to come back to see this falls again
after a heavy rain and with better lighting!    I passed the falls a bit and enjoyed seeing red fire pinks and blue Virginia spiderwort.    I then turned around and headed back promising to trade
contact info with the Vann's back at our vehicles.    I saw something funny on the way back.
I was wading through that last deep stretch of creek/trail/mud and saw a guy and a girl heading in.
They were dressed like they were going to church. The girl had on a skirt and neither of them had on appropriate footwear for a three mile round trip, very wet muddy hike!   Pfft! I did good and 
contained my laughter, but we had a chuckle about it back at the vehicles.  

 

     Little Creek Falls is big, but is not any 95 footer as described in the Chas. Maynard guide. 


     Once I left the trout farm I headed to the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Balsam Mountain area.
I had seen numerous purple fringed orchids on the way there and hoped I'd see more up high.
The spur road, Balsam mountain campground and all of Heintooga was closed the previous year.
I was eager to go enjoy it while I had the chance.   The parkway itself was gorgeous. The views were clear and sparkling today in all directions at every overlook, but one.  I encountered one overlook where the view had become obstructed by vegetation.   Going higher in elevation in Summer does a couple things for the visitor. You get above the heat and things are usually a lot cooler.  You also can find wildflowers still blooming after they have quit in the lower elevations. 
Today I was treated to mountain laurel, flame azaleas, purple fringed orchids, wild columbine, 
bowmans root, wild geraniums,smooth flowering raspberry and golden alexanders to name a few.   I had the feeling  that the spur road was going to be somewhat of a crap shoot today.  They would have mowed upon opening it since it was not done the previous year while it was closed.  I hoped that had not totally screwed up my wildflower spots.    

    

 







Bunches Bald Overlook off the BRPW
Potpouri of wildflowers along the parkway.  White= bowmans root, red= wild columbine, yellow= golden alexanders.   I like the combo of colors on that green background of Summer leaves!

        I saw turkeys, another  grouse, and elk along the Balsam Mountain Road.  
I saw a few other motorists.  I was pulling over every little bit examining flowers and taking pictures.   I was like a kid in a candy store.  Everyone I encountered was in good spirits and 
friendly. I spoke with a nice couple at Mile High Overlook and a few other folks out the road.
Flame azaleas and mountain laurel abound along this road.  The only saving grace for me today was that I have worn it out up here botanizing. I was not quite as compelled to turn over every leaf
today as I have been in the past.   I had no desire to go down to see Flat Creek Falls today.
It is a doozy of an off trail adventure and I was not in the mood for it today.  Instead I spent time
taking photos of and counting purple fringed orchids. I counted a total of 86 today from the time I began seeing them at Newfound Gap to the end of my days journey.  Less than in some years, but I am certain the mowing affected them.   It is worth noting that I saw more on both sides of the road this year instead of only one side. I also saw them in areas I had never found them before!



Purple fringed orchid. I took close ups and it appears this year that every single orchid I photographed was platanthera psychodes.. the small variety. You tell them apart by the shape of the nectary. 

Clump of PFOs. 

 I stopped by Polls Gap and it is curious that the start of the Polls Gap trail.. appears to have been grubbed out.  It looks like someone is cleaning it up and doing some work on it.  It is at least recognizable as a trail head now.  I moved on to the Heintooga Picnic area and there was not a soul around.  The place was deserted.   The bathrooms and water fountains were operational this trip.
I found myself feeling a little sad and not wanting to hang around here today.  Kenny being out of town and some of our fun trips here just hit me hard.  I'd like to come back here later in the Summer with him.  I moved on rather than upset myself.    I did not want to mess up a string of 
good memories with sadness.  
Heintooga Picnic grounds. It looks like a Bavarian Scene!  It ain't no good without my honey.

    I decided to drive the entire Heintooga road. Once you pass the picnic area the traffic is one way on a dirt road until you get to Straight Fork. I  had wanted to try to photograph the waterfall on Ledge Creek. I saw a bear on my drive. I also spooked two grouse. The first one ran off, but the second one had attitude and told me she'd heard her sister beat my ass for me.  I told her sadly that it was true.  :-)



See the grouse flying up? 

     The road was quiet and dark. It was drier than last time I was here.  I saw lots of fire pinks along the way and some bright yellow sundrops.  I love August along this road.  August is the queen month of wildflowers at high altitudes! Its my birthday month too so maybe my birthday should be here?   I did stop and hike about 1/2 mile up Balsam Mountain Trail but my heart wasn't 
in it.  It was quiet and pretty, but there were loads of diseased turks cap lilies here.
I moved on. I had not gone far when I heard something odd.  It was a fellow on a dirt bike doubling a woman on the back going the WRONG way on the one way road.   What? 

     I had been hoping for little or no traffic so I could pull over and photograph Ledge Creek Falls.
I got that part right, but I will have to go back accompanied for that task and take some rope. 
The skies turned suddenly black and rain began pouring down.  Ledge Creek Falls is small and scenic, but a steep, slippery bank lay between it and me.  I will plan for this better next go round.

     I continued on to Straight Fork.  The whole drive was quiet and pretty.  I love the Cherokee Reservation and was thrilled to see on my drive that many places which had been run down and 
impoverished were fixed up and looked much improved!  I think I could live on the reservation and be quite happy.  It is beautiful.  
Bridge over Straight Fork.  Two way traffic past this point. 

     I continued on my way home. I was very tired and had a long drive to go.  I did stop to view the elk at Oconoluftee.  I saw two bull elk in velvet!
I had favorable conditions and did not get delayed anymore on my way home.
I had a head full of memories and had satisfied my curiousity and urge to ramble for awhile.
I hope I can manage an August trip back here for a picnic and Summer wildflowers and maybe some more waterfalls.   I would not mind taking a hike up to see Waterrock Knob again! See how I am? Barely home and already daydreaming about the next trip.

Below is a short video of Little Creek Falls from today's hike.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Hooper Bald , Huckleberry Knob and Conasauga Falls!

Native azaleas on Hooper Bald


Hooper Bald , Huckleberry Knob & Conasauga Falls 

Dana Koogler solo
Monday June 16. 2014

Total hike distance 4 miles




      I was determined to get out to the woods on Monday again to satisfy my soul's craving for
a visit to the beautiful Cherokee National Forest/NantahalaNational Forest area.   I'd been hanging on by the skin of my teeth to get there.  The weekend trip through the vicinity just
 stoked that fire. Monday I went bopping out the door with my gear and down the road I went. 

        I enjoyed the drive down through Madisonville and Tellico Plains.  I turned and headed up
the Cherohala Skyway toward the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina.   I was heading for Hooper Bald first.   I arrived at the trail and parked at the second access spot instead of the trailhead proper.   I saw only one vehicle there.  I made the short hike up to see the azaleas.
I was not disappointed. I hit it just right.  They were in peak bloom.  I wandered around the bald
checking out the assorted colors.  The shades of color here do not have the wide range and show
less hybridization than on Gregory Bald. It is a far shorter hike and the character of the place is
quite different.   I had the place to myself far as I could tell.  It is wild and wooly up on Hooper Bald.  No horses or horse manure. No crowds.  I stood on the rock pulpit and checked out the view.  The briers are  taking the view away, but I did not care.   I saw shades of orange, gold, copper, peach, and red azaleas.  I saw mountain laurel in shades ranging from deep pink to 
almost white.   I loved the dark black green spruce trees contrasted against the brighter shades of color.   The air was fresh and sweet and cool.  The skies changed from bright blue to cloudy.

        I saw something that made me wonder if I was quite mad?  Tiny specks of white floated 
about the bald especially under the shrub canopy.  Considering the visual problems and brain problems of the past months I was not sure what to make of it?  I took another look and it was not
an illusion.  I saw very small flies carrying puffs of silk and giving them to one another like 
presents.  They looked like balloons.  The term "balloon fly" came to mind. I recalled seeing
a nature program that illustrated this phenomena.  I had never witnessed it myself until today!
I was seeing the mating behavior of the balloon flies!  I had no idea they were around the area.
Below is a short video of the azaleas and in the first few seconds you can see them. They are visible later in the video as well.  

      







Pulpit at Hooper Bald



Bright red azaleas. Never saw this shade here before! Love the scalloped edges.

      Another key difference in visiting Hooper Bald versus Gregory Bald? 
Hooper Bald is wilder.  It is like wandering through various rooms of a house to see the azaleas as opposed to the more open character of Gregory Bald.  I don't know what the acreage is in comparing the two. The azaleas on Hooper are confined more to one side of the bald.  
I finally found the spring on Hooper Bald this year! It was running quite well.    



Spruce trees, thick vegetation and briars and azaleas!




Top: Briers, weeds, evergreens laced with orange.
Bottom:  A stunted oak tree grows amidst the brush and azaleas.

       I love the Great Smoky Mountains.  They are part of the reason I moved to Tennessee. 
What I never counted on was all the beauty of the wilderness areas down the road.  I am from an area that is far less populated. I am a person who has lived in a remote area much of her life.   Another thing I never counted on was how much I would crave that solitude and quiet that is restorative to my soul.  Wilderness areas like this are like wandering through my dreams.  They are treasures of solace, beauty and joy. The Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests and the wildernesses they hold are a great source of comfort and escape for me and those like me. 
You can't be a tourist every day in a National Park's front country and get the same thing out of the experience.    Coming here is like coming home.  


       I reveled in the marvels of color and the sweet scents. I listened to the birds sing.
I watched the sun appear then disappear as clouds swooped across the bald.   I wandered where ever I felt lead.    I finally tore myself away and headed back to the jeep. It was around noon and my fat cells were screaming to be fed.  I met a crew of trail maintainers as I got to the parking area.   They were trimming grass and checking things out.  They were eating as they worked. 
One guy had a sammidge hanging out of his mouth as he opened the gate. I enjoyed sitting in my jeep watching to see what he'd do next.  I like it when everything is not so prim and proper.
It keeps things interesting. 

      I drove the short distance up the Skyway to the trailhead for Huckleberry Bald. I had only hiked here once before.  I was very excited thinking I might find wonderful things there. My head was swimming with daydreams of more loads of azaleas of different colors and other beautiful flowers.    I could hardly wait to get started.  I parked and began the hike on a grassy path that is very manicured and looks like it belongs in someone's lawn or in a city park.  It climbs to the highest point along Unicoi mountains in North Carolina.   Since I was up so high here it was no 
surprise the mountains made their own weather.  I was soon hiking in a cloud.  I was enveloped 
briefly by it.  I had yet to cross Oak Knob. I could see far in the distance the cross on Huckleberry marking Andy Sherman's grave.   It looked so far away and like such a daunting climb from where I now stood. I knew it was not, but it still appeared intimidating.  


Clouds rolling in to swallow me up at the start of the Huckleberry hike.  I hiked across Oak Knob.
The rain began in earnest.  I donned my rain jacket.   I walked about 100 feet.  The rain stopped
just as abruptly as it began.   The clouds moved out and the sun shone.  The weather did all that 
in five minutes or less.  Ah the whims of the mountains of the South Land.  The saying about living here if you don't like the weather.. wait five minutes.. it'll change is TRUE! 

     I hiked the gentle grade up to Andy Sherman's grave site.  I hiked around the knob exploring.
My trip to Huckleberry for azaleas was a joke.  I saw one massive azalea bush way back in the spruce trees.  It was inaccessible.  No wildflowers  unless you counted the gazillion buttercups lining the path on the way up here.   They were quite pretty.   I enjoyed watching the cloudscapes around me on all sides.  I decided that while it is a pretty spot it is NOT a good wildflower hike.
My Autumn hike here was by far prettier.   The mountain ash trees up here in Autumn are splendid!  I would like to come back on a clear Autumn day again.  I looked around me and could see the clouds swirling over the mountains nearby. See the image below for a view to the North.



Look at the difference on my hike out! No more dark skies. Now I've got sunshine and a Sound of Music Von Trapp Family day! Birds chirped and I did see sparrows and the rufous sided towhees in the grass and bushes.  Butterflies fluttered along the path ahead of me and swooped around me.
It was a grand time to the in the mountains!

       I was feeling ambitious and craving to see a waterfall so I returned to the jeep and 
considered what I wanted to do next?  Fall Branch Falls was very near.  It made the most sense
as far as closeness and ease of hike. It is always pretty.  I really wanted to find Holder Cove Falls
down on FR 210, but felt I'd best gather some better info from Paul Gamble before attempting that one.  I only had the most general idea where it was located.   I had not visited Conasauga Falls in a long while. I wanted to go there so I headed in that direction.   It is an easy hike to a waterfall
that is always a sure bet.         
   I drove to Tellico Plains enjoying the blue skies and sunshine.   I had some groovy tunes
on the radio and iPod.   I was sipping a cold drink.  Life is good.  I enjoy the back roads almost
as much as I do the trails.   I got to Tellico Plains and turned left (south) onto SR 68.
I went a couple miles and turned right onto Conasauga Falls road. It is signed.  I followed it out to its end. It goes from pavement to gravel back and forth until it ends at a gravel and dirt parking lot.    I saw one vehicle there. A little silver car.  I grabbed my pack and began the easy hike down.
Its all down hill on the way in and all uphill on the way out. Switchbacks make the hike much gentler.    Arrowwood bloomed along the edges of the woods.  It has creamy white blooms.
I also saw a little bit of mountain laurel mostly faded.  I saw pipsissewa.  I saw no snakes today.
Not a single one!  It was hot. The pine forest here smells sweet.  I made my way down to the river.
I could hear Conasauga Creek roaring long before I got to it.  The only other visitors here were two ladies sitting in the sun on the rocks.  They had been in the water cooling off but were just
relaxing there and talking.   Damselflies flitted about me.  I saw some salamanders in the water and minnows.  The falls roared past and down the creek.  Numerous other small riffles and cascades were along the stream both above and below the falls.   It was beautiful as always.


Conasauga Falls       
  I was growing tired and  had a limited amount of time to tarry here today.  I had to get back to 
Muravul to pick up my new computer from the store.  It had been giving me problems.  I was 
to pick it up today fully restored.   I knew they closed at 7 pm.    Regretfully I trudged back up the hill to the jeep and headed back to town.    I can't complain. I had good weather and mostly solitude today. I filled my head up with beautiful things.  Good things!
I was unable to resist taking a turn on the dirt road out to see where it lead?  It was so pretty and quiet.    I still had to turn around and make myself go back to town. I had it in my mind that
this road must come out at Coker Creek or that area? A later look at the map revealed that yes! It did come out on Hot Water Road down in the Coker Creek vicinity.  The trails, the wander thirst and back roads go on forever. 

     Here is a short video of Conasauga Falls from my hike.



Sunday, June 29, 2014

Blue Ridge Georgia --Mother -Daughter Trip



Mother-Daughter Trip to Blue Ridge, Georgia

Pictures are here: Blue Ridge Georgia Pix


    I have done a lot of talking about my son, Jared and his trials and the various trials
of our family on this blog.   One of the things that has happened unintentionally is that 
my lovely daughter Crystal has gotten pushed to the side.   The Prodigal Son is told about in the 
Bible. He leaves home and lives a wanton lifestyle. He repents. He comes home. He is accepted and loved and welcomed.  The story also mentions the dutiful son who has remained close and 
has not strayed or wronged anyone.   Thank the Lord for children who do NOT give us grief.
The individuals in this world who manage to not mess up and are on an even keel get 
overlooked at times.   My life and the life of this family began to calm down. I came to feel
I had some making amends to do on behalf of my child who had remained eager to please and 
NOT done anything to mess up.  

     Crystal has been a source of support , comfort and joy to myself and this entire family.
She managed to marry an excellent spouse.  She has a highly successful career. She is well respected in our community. She is involved in our church.  She is a fine Christian witness.
She has born two beautiful grandkids to enlarge our family.    She has welcomed quality friends
into her life that have in turn blessed my life and family.   I can count her a friend as well as
a daughter.   She was always a dear little baby and grew to be a funny toddler. She has always been more what I wanted to strive for.  She lacked many of the neurotic qualities I wanted to see
gone from me.   She knew how to laugh at herself and life.   I felt it was time to turn things
around and enjoy one anothers company while there was time.  

       She had wanted to visit Mercier Orchard in Blue Ridge, Georgia for awhile.
I thought it sounded like fun.  I was growing one dimensional again. I found myself going hiking
all the time.  I knew too much of a good thing makes one dull and life loses its luster.  
We planned a much needed Mother-Daughter trip.  She'd get a break from work, house, church, kids and I'd get to spend some time with my girl.  I'd remember how to be more like a chick instead of a dude!   

         I had packed the night before the trip and was ready to roll as soon as she got off work Friday.   We stopped and had a quick bite and come excellent conversation.   I have spoiled my grandson to the point he feels when I am around that HE is the only one I should converse with.  
 It was great getting to talk to Crystal without the interruption of kids.    One of the prettiest parts of the journey came from the drive down SR 68 going from Tennessee into Georgia.    I had been down that road before as far as Farner.  The countryside is beautiful the entire way.  The road is rural but passes through small towns.  It goes through the Overhill Territory of the Cherokees.
The pure beauty of the area will break your heart.   Imagine driving down along the deep green corridor in the gathering dusk.  The neat country lawns. Farms.  Pastures filled with jewels of orange butterfly weed.  The Hiwassee River tailwaters flowing slow and green.   Old abandoned homes faded and no longer occupied.  The roadside in some spots was lined with Seven Sisters Roses of pink and crimson spilling down like walls.  It was an ornamental rose planted decades ago that is considered a non native invasive, but to me it is just beautiful.  Whomever planted it
long ago is now gone and it flourishes. It lives on to decorate the by-ways. 

         
           The road passes by a few small stores that look more like what I was accustomed to
as a child.   One in the Ducktown area is a white, plain building but outside it is still clear that it is in operation.   They sell healthy plants, ornamentals and vegetable starts.   We passed the old Kimsey Junior College pump house.   We passed through Copper Hill, Tennessse and the next thing I knew the signage said we were in McCaysville, Georgia.  It seems to flow from one state to the next. One town to the next without a hitch. I had to check to be sure we had crossed the state line!    McCaysville, Georgia and this area are particularly interesting to me.  I want to go back
to visit this area again with camera in hand.    

       We were wishing the car would drive itself so we could be spectators.  Crystal drove.
I navigated to be sure the GPS.. Babala... did not steer us wrong. She has done it before. She tried to on this trip, but I had her covered.    We were awed by the setting sun over the Cohuttas.
It was one of those special moments in time that I will never forget.  Soft sunset colors of orange, copper, gold, pink, purple, lavender over deep blue green mountains.  We both agreed there is really nothing like being a Summer in the South. It is a benediction.   I am very proud of my 
Southern heritage as are my children.   I did not have the opportunity to take photos of 
these sights. I can simply describe them and share the few I did get of this part of our trip.

Orange jewel weed filled the roadside fields


Seven Sisters Roses spilling off of old fences and filling the roadsides 


   
   We arrived at the Blue Ridge Lodge which was our hotel. It was just as pretty and welcoming as the adds showed.    We were both very tired and glad to have come to the end of the road trip for today.     We had gotten a good deal on a suite.  We sat up and talked for awhile to unwind. 
The bed was so comfortable. It is not ever as good as my bed at home, but it was still good.

    The next morning we ate breakfast at one of the local establishments. It was the L & L Bakery & Cafe I think.  It was great! I would go there again.    We each tried a different type of quiche and sampled each others so we'd know which was best. It was hard to pick!   Coffee was good.
Fresh fruit.  It was marvelous.  We drove around the town and parked to get out and walk.  
We wanted to spend some time shopping.  We prowled around various shops checking out whatever struck our fancy. It was  a good change of pace for me.   Sometimes I need a reminder
to act more like a chick.   Crystal found her some perfect Chaco sandals at a gear store.
They were so helpful.  I did not have anything in particular I was hunting for, but I enjoyed seeing
all sorts of things.  



Crystal prowling one of the shops

Folk Art--wish I'd gotten this piece.


The outside of Sycamore Crossing

       Once we'd had enough of shopping we headed back out of the downtown. We went to the Mercier Orchard to pick fruit.   We had lunch at the cafe in the farm store.   It was great!
We checked out the massive store indoors and the farmers market.  We then went over to the U Pick portion to get ready to go pick fresh blueberries and cherries.   We got a ride on the wagon with the other guests and they gave us some instructions.  We picked our baskets full of both cherries and blueberries. They were our dessert too!   It is a lovely place and a fun, different way to spend an afternoon.    I was really glad we came here. I think we will return.



Mercier Orchard is a large place!

     We drove back to town afterwards and stopped at Wal-Mart to pick up the few things we'd gotten there without.   Back at the hotel Crystal painted her toes and mine.  We rested and lounged.   We dressed for dinner and she fixed my hair.   We had reservations at Christy Lee's Courtyard for 7:30 pm.     We arrived about 20 minutes early.  We went in and sat at the bar to have before dinner drinks.  They had live music inside and out!   My favorite song the fellow inside played was the song from "Fifty First Dates"  Over the Rainbow  
by Israel Kamakawi.  It was a good rendition.  It would bring a tear to your eyes it was so pretty.
Christy Lee's Courtyard during the day.   It is a nice place.


Crystal crossing over the street to Christy Lee's

     We sat at the bar with other patrons for a few minutes and soon they seated us.  We had a good table and a great server.   The entertainment and food was splendid.   Crystal had cedar planked salmon and I had seafood pasta. We enjoyed a glass of moscato.   It was a good dinner with a nice atmosphere and conversation.   I am proud to say I enjoy conversing with my daughter. She is an interesting person and always improving her knowledge. She has many facets.    We finally tore ourselves away and walked around town a little bit.  The Blue Ridge Scenic Railway Train sat outside the restaurant.   I have a weakness for trains.  How can you be from Vesuvius and not have a jones for the train?   
Sun setting over the train and its tracks.


Crystal by the train.  I had a grand time with my daughter! 

     We were tired so we went back to the hotel and watched tv and read and talked.  We slept and got up the next day to head home.     We planned to meet the men and children in Chattanooga for Father's Day Lunch.    We had breakfast at the lodge in the complimentary breakfast kitchen.
It was so so.  It was just really crowded, but it was free and it made it possible for us to eat and get going on time.     I won't fool with that breakfast again and that crowd, but it was the only negative thing I have to say about the place.   I would definitely go back!   

 

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Quick Hike After the Rain Little Greenbrier Trail and Little Brier Gap


Tangerine colored flame azaleas along the trail.
Little Greenbrier Gap and Little Brier Gap Trails
Thursday June 12, 2014
Dana Koogler solo
4 miles round trip
Pictures are here: Little Greenbrier Trail Pix



I had originally planned to hike to Spruce Flats Falls with my daughter, grandson and granddaughter.
I had been eager to show Michael and Tessa the wonders of the mountains close to home ever since realizing
he was capable of making a longer hike. I was eager to see how she responded to the things she would encounter. She seemed to like the trail thus far. I went out to the jeep to pack it up with our stuff and realized it was raining steadily. The forecast called for rain all morning and into the afternoon. I called Crystal and after a short discussion we chose to wait. The hike we picked was close to the house and short so it was not going anywhere. I did not want them to have a negative experience on the trail. I was a little
disappointed, but it was no big deal. I always have plans A, B, C, D, E and F.
I did some things around the house and after eating a quick lunch I noticed the rain had stopped.
I tried to call Lydia and Crystal but did not get an answer from either of them. I decided I'd get out for a
short leg stretcher. My muse was calling me again. I could hear the siren song of native orchids calling to me from the mountains. I had to go see for myself. I love Summer hikes in the Smokies.
June is the month of too many wildflowers to see them all.

One point along the trail where it is pine straw under foot.

The trail goes up and up but it levels off eventually. The ascent is gradual. The tread under foot
is very even most of the way and changes from gravelly to pine straw. The woods here today were cool and the air was fresh. Along this hike I was treated to the scent of rain, earth, pine needles, citrus, flowers, and curry spice. Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains in any season is grand, but
Summer has its own rewards. I climbed steadily upward with the path winding and switching back. I was treated to partial views from the trail in a couple directions. The Little Greenbrier
Trail is a boundary trail in the park. It sits right along the line between what is public land and private. Markers differentiation the border. Along the part that is private there are a number
of side trails leading off to the left heading in. I check them all every time I hike this trail.
It turned out to be a good thing. You'll see later.

I was going along and enjoying myself when something strange caught my eye.
A dead pine tree with a knothole had something weird happening. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me. Something was oozing out of the tree. A snake. The tree was oozing snake.
A copperhead was pouring itself out of the tree and into the brush. His head was already out.
His body flowed out after it. I tried to videotape it but the viewer on my camera and my own

nervousness made that attempt unsuccessful. I chose instead to get past him quickly while he was occupied. I dashed past him and stopped to look back. I got a good eye to eye contact with him.
I then looked around for landmarks. I wanted to be aware where he was on this trail for my return
trip since I was doing an out and back. My mind was thinking later on the hike of ways I could avoid hiking back past him. I considered hiking down to the Walker Sisters and the old school and either seeing if I could get a lift from someone back to my car or walking back out that way?
I quickly dismissed that idea. I reasoned that he might not even be there by the time I came back.
Spreading pogonia along the hike.
I began seeing beautiful wildflowers along the trail and that certainly helped take my mind
off snakes. I was watchful, but I relaxed and enjoyed my hike. I saw lots of flame azaleas but
they were past peak. Some of the azaleas looked positively melted. I saw the first of the Rosebay rhododendron of the season just starting to bloom. It was not in a position where I could get any sort of decent shot of it. I could smell it before I saw it!

Flame azalea along the trail.

A huge chestnut oak spreading its limbs out over the trail.

I continued on toward the trail intersection with Little Brier Gap. I had planned to turn and hike
down the trail toward the Walker Sisters for a short distance. I probably added another mile to the hike in total by doing that. I was seeing that the mountain laurel and flame azaleas along this stretch of the trip were done for the season. I saw a few bold yellow star grass flowers and some yellow composites. The sun was coming out bright and bold. The sunbeams filtered through the tree canopy in some spots. Other places were deep green and dark from the forest gloom.
I have learned to appreciate all of the various aspects of the light in these woods.

Sun coming out.. skies clearing to blue!




I love looking down the trail and seeing the various hues of blue and green in Summer. The same spot may change appearance drastically in the course of an out and back hike! As KT's Momma would say "Learn to Love It!" I know she's right. She don't play! :-)




I love the red dirt trail and the sun filtering through. Subtle changes along the way.

I sat down at the intersection to cool off a little and take a break. I rested and ate a snack and had something to drink. I just enjoyed the quiet. I could hear only the birds singing and the bees buzz. It is worth mentioning to watch out for yellow jackets. I saw that the banks along the trails in this area are just full of yellow jacket nests. Seeing them today brought back to mind that I have seen them here before and they are even thicker down toward the old school and the Walker Sisters home place. I saw goats rue in white and pink like an old housecoat of mine!
I began my return hike and was admiring the deep green coat of velvet moss along the edges of the trail.



Mossy Trail

I hiked real slow and watched closely for Mr. Copperhead. I was super careful.
I saw a turkey, a groundhog, dragonflies, butterflies, moths, a cardinal, a goldfinch, and a wood thrush so far today in addition to the snake. I recognized the area where the snake had been
without a single moments hesitation. I knew this was it. I checked around to see that I did
not step on or surprise him. I first thought he was gone, but a second later I spied him. He was
sleeping in the same spot by the trail. He was very content in the sun and never stirred.

Sleeping copperhead

Once I had passed the snake spot I was more at ease. I still watched for all his brothers and sisters since I seem to be the Snake Goddess. I am like a magnet for them anymore. I did stop at the side trails along the hike out. I was rewarded for my efforts with this!



Newly constructed viewing platform on the private side of the trail. Whoever did this did a marvelous job. There is a path coming to it. Below it are benches for sitting. It is very cool.



The view out across Wears Valley from the platform. It reminds me of a Currier & Ives painting
on my mom's china plates. Scenes of pastoral life. I sat here enjoying the breeze and the view for awhile. It was lovely. It feels good to enjoy solitude and not have to be in a hurry or be anywhere!

I resumed my hike out and heard a puffing sound. I saw something in the trail ahead of me.
It was a cute terrapin. He was puffing air to scare me. I acted real scared.


Box turtle in the trail

I cruised on out to the jeep. I unlocked it and stowed my gear. I got in and sat down and turned the air conditioner on. I took two or three minutes to cool off and review my photos before I planned to head home. Everything had gone along pretty good today thus far. I had a grand hike and was real tickled with it but things went south quickly. My jeep began idling rough and
grew worse and worse. I turned it off to see if that would help smooth it out. It did not help it.
It did not want to go. I could not get it to go in gear or anything. I got to thinking about Joel Osteen's mom being a woman of faith. I put my hands on the dash after many attempts to get the jeep to go I decided to pray for it. That is what she would have done. So I tried it.
It did not work. I tried it again and it did not work. I reached for my purse to call for help.
No cell phone. I had forgotten and left it at home. I had known I would need to stop and put gas in the jeep before I drove home. I planned to do just that in Wears Valley. The tank had gas, but I was parked downhill. Could that have anything to do with this problem?

No worries. I was not far from homes here. I could hear someone cutting the grass with a riding mower. I locked the jeep and walked toward the first house. I drew near it and saw a man sitting flat on his behind in the weeds and I was going to have to walk past this dude. I was uneasy.
He was watching me head his direction. A van was approaching with a couple in it. I stuck my thumb out and waved them down. I explained to them what was going on and asked them for help.
They took me in their van the few feet back to my vehicle. I used the ladies cell phone and called my family. They were going to send help for me. The lady asked me if I had tried praying over the jeep. I told her I had. She decided we should try that again so I humored her. Long story short ... my daughter got hold of my son in law Adam. He was nearby anyway. He came and helped me. The jeep would not go even after putting gas in it. He rescued me and took me home. My husband Kenny took me back over to the jeep later that night and we put more gas in it and finally it was enough that it could pick it up in that position. We used the night time trip to enjoy the fireflies in Wears Valley!


Later I was somewhat in the dog house with my family. I told them about praying over the jeep. I also told them of course it did not work. I told them what the Lord had to say to me.
He told me (imagine the voice of Hank Hill's Korean neighbor Khan) "You ASS! I not fix jeep.
You put enough gas in jeep! You no park down hill no more! You tell somebody where going! You take along cell phone! " So the take away on this is be prepared!

Below is a short video of the view of Wears Valley from that platform.