Navigation Systems and Tools for Four Wheeling

 Navigation Systems for Four-Wheeling

    I have been getting ever increasing requests for info on navigation systems to use when four wheeling.

We use several.  Lifetime Maps is one that I bought for Kenny a couple years back for Christmas.  Another we use is Orux maps.   Lastly and most of all is the TCM tracks file.  I'll attempt to explain here the pros and cons of each. I will also explain how to get and use all of them.  

Lifetime Maps 

   One of the primary navigation systems we use is Lifetime Maps.   I have included a clickable link here to their website.    It is a one time paid program.   It costs around $260 as a one time fee.

You have to have a tablet to run it on which costs varying amounts depending on where you get it and what size.  You can purchase the tablet already to go with the program installed for as little as $490 to as much as $990.    I bought it for Kenny for Christmas a couple years ago.   I bought a separate tablet on Amazon for $250 and paid $250 for the download so I have $500 in it total.  
Once you buy it and get it set up and running you get updates for free.  You can pay an additional fee to get monthly updates wirelessly, but it costs $50 per year.   It is also wise to buy a mount for it to put it in the machine.  It cost $40-50 at the time. 

     Installation onto the tablet is easy, but you need wifi access to do it.   You need to be careful purchasing the tablet yourself like I did.  The tablet needs to be adequately sized to be readable and functional.   It needs to be a durable product for hard use.  It also has system requirements of at least 32 GB of storage space, and a functional GPS chip in the device.  

   Once you get Lifetime Maps and are running it out on the trails it is independent of cell phone signal or wifi.     It is within the device and will function as long as the battery is charged.  It works great for navigating the trails where you are.  It shows the trails and they are color coded for difficulty level.   The track you are covering in real time shows in purple.  If you get off the trail you will see a purple line on a blank white background. This is how you know you are off trail and making your own way.   

       It is updated so the trail systems are pretty accurate and will get you where you want to go.

It will help prevent you from getting lost.   It is NOT great for trying to simply explore an area before you go on a trip.   It zeroes in on the area where you are by linking up with navigation satellites.  Part of the problem is we haven't used it a lot to get completely comfortable and skilled at knowing how to use all the features of it.   It is very cluttered with info making it tough to examine what you want to focus in on.  

   

Orux

   Orux maps is another app we use to navigate.  It works with the TCM tracks file that is free and downloadable.   It is inexpensive costing $4.49, but I am not sure how long that lasts.   It may be indefinite, but something tells me it isn't.  Kenny had downloaded it for $4.49 and used it only to have it stop working for some unknown reason.   You can find and download it from the Google Play store.  It works on PC which doesn't help you on trails, but does if you are scouting or route planning ahead of time.  It works on tablets and cell phones making it portable and versatile. 

It works independent of cell phone signal.  You get it set to where you need and you're good to go even if you lose signal.   If you happen to hit the back button on the tablet or phone you can get it back.      You can pay extra and get additional features included in your subscription. 

There is an OruxSOS app that can send a distress signal or alert if you are on an outing and have an emergency.   That feature may depend on having a cell phone signal which stands to reason. You can save your routes, and mark up routes ahead of time.  You can use features to help exclude certain areas.   It has many features you can change the view.  Like all things there are those who love it, hate it and everywhere in between.   

Google Earth and TCM Tracks

    Last, but not least is Google Earth coupled together with Tackett Creek Mafia (TCM) Tracks file.  It is the creation of Mike Smiddy who also created the Facebook group Tackett Creek Mafia.

It is a good group and a great tool.   It is free.  You join Tackett Creek Mafia on Facebook. 

Download Google Earth for free on your tablet or cell phone or both.   You go to the FILES section on the TCM group and find the free download.  It is the second one from the top in the files section.  It reads 

TCM SXS MAIN TRAIL MAP 120224.kmz

   Download it to your cell phone or tablet.    Once you have successfully installed Google Earth and downloaded the file.. open Google Earth. It will open the file and bring up the map of all the trails. You need to go to the bottom of the web page on Google Earth once the file is open.   Click Save as Project in order to keep it.  If you don't you'll have to download it again. 

        It is the most up to date, most complete mapping tool out there for our area. 

It is easy to use.   It will bring you to where you are on the trails at the time.   It points out difficulty levels of trails. It points out private property boundaries.  It indicates lots of scenic, historic and other points of interest in plain language.  It is easy to understand.  

       It has a few down sides.    It is dependent on having a cell phone signal.  If you load it to your desired area ahead of time on your tablet or phone it will continue to function even without cell signal.  However if you hit the back button or lose it you won't be able to get it back.   Be careful to avoid doing this if it is your primary navigation tool.   

    The other downside is that because it is so in depth regarding trails and points of interest it is rather cluttered.   It's the price of doing business in my opinion.  It is better than Lifetime Maps for exploring a given area ahead of time. It is certainly easier to use.   It is only good for our area.    It is user sourced so it doesn't take it all in.    It changes every time a user saves and submits tracks and trail conditions.     

   The Tackett Creek Mafia group is a very popular, large Facebook group. Not everyone likes Facebook.  I love the group and Smiddy, but like all large groups you are going to encounter a wide variety of users on there.  Right now the fee increase for riders is a political hot button issue with lots of fussing about it on the group.  You just have to try to overlook it and don't engage.

Fussing about stuff like that on social media isn't going to change anything.  Write to your congressional representatives, vote, and make phone calls if you want to make changes.

   The TWRA has done this to raise funds to cover the costs associated with trail maintenance from HIGH IMPACT use which four wheeling most definitely is.    I don't agree with every aspect of the TWRA, but I see their point.    We enjoy it enough we will pay the fees. Stay legal and continue to go.     It is unbelievable to me how many folks are raising hell about the TWRA cracking down on alcohol use by riders.  We are not allowed to drink and drive on roads with cars and trucks.  Neither should folks think they are okay to get out there and drink and drive while four wheeling.   Unreal that anyone would 1. get upset about it and 2. try to defend what is unconscionable behavior.  

        I hope this article is useful and helps fellow riders select the tools out there to make their riding more fun, safer, and simpler.   No one wants to get lost out there.  It isn't a good feeling.

Below is a photo of  Town Rock it is one of the neat places we have visited while four wheeling in Royal Blue.  It is a prime example of why these trail maps matter.   No good, current map exists for Royal Blue.  It is a maze of trails of varying difficulty levels.   It would be tricky to find this place without help. 

Below: another example of why a navigation system... This photo is at Brimstone. We rode from Gobey to Brimstone.  Gobey is free wheeling... Brimstone is a private riding venue and they charge a fee.

Gobey is a big area and we found lots more great stuff by using the maps. TCM maps was the most useful on this trip.   It helped us know where one trail system began and ended.  Kept us honest. 

Below is the Titty waterfall that we'd not have found without the TCM maps.   It is on the far west side of Gobey.  

 Where to Go Four Wheeling in Tennessee

  One of the things I get a lot of emails about is looking for suggestions where to go four wheeling in Tennessee?   I am by no means an expert or an all knowing guru.  I decided to address it here in a blog entry.  I can add to it as I learn more myself.   I can make changes on this entry if access conditions change.   I am doing this arranged by category.  

  Here is a link to a playlist on YouTube of various rides we have taken.  

Wildlife Management Areas 

Above: Skinner Mountain WMA in Fall 

   You will often see me refer to "WMAs" in trip reports.   Folks ask what that stands for?

It stands for wildlife management area.  We are fortunate to be able to go four wheeling in these areas whose primary function and purpose is hunting.   Horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking and four wheeling are often allowed in these areas unless otherwise stated.  Below is a list of the ones I am familiar with. 

Skinner Mountain

Catoosa

Big Bottom 

Chuck Swan

Gobey

Royal Blue/Sundquist

Tackett Creek

Alpine Mountain

Below is a photo of a scene at Tackett Creek

State Forests

Prentice Cooper SF

Pickett State Forest

Franklin State Forest

Below is a view from Wow Overlook in Pickett State Forest

Private Riding Venues

Brimstone

Wind Rock

Coalmont

Bluff Mountain Adventures

Adventure Off Road Park

Wooly's Off Road

Fisher's Off Road Tours

Doe Mountain Rec. Area

Free Riding Venues

Coppinger Cove

Bryants Cove

Capuchin Creek/Winfield 

Below is a photo of our machine in Coppinger Cove in Winter. 

Suggestions--

Do not take SxS or four wheelers into the National Forests. You may have a street legal machine that technically should be allowed on the forest roads in most national forests.   We have had numerous bad experiences.  The federal marshals that work these areas don't like them and will look for reasons to ticket you.  You are just asking for trouble.  

Street Legal Use in and Around Pigeon Forge/Sevierville/Gatlinburg is great!  It makes for easier parking. It saves fuel. It's fun when the weather is decent.    Since the area relies on tourism dollars and many outfits rent these machines in the vicinity it is seen frequently and no one bothers you.  We tried it the first time as locals in October 2024 and it went well.   The only draw back is you'd better consider what you're heading out to do ahead of time.  I went grocery shopping in the side by side and that could have gone badly trying to get a large quantity of groceries hauled back to the camper.   Thankfully it was only a few things.  

Below is our Polaris RZR at the campground this October for Fall Break.  We used it a bunch and it was fun.   Very convenient.   

Last of all is a video of our riding at Tackett Creek.  Descending into Hell's Canyon.

Crystal's Heart Problems

Crystal's Heart Problems

Saturday Nov. 23, 2024 

  Saturday morning we were supposed to get our grandchildren and do fun things with them.

We took my jeep and dropped it off in town to get the tires rotated and rebalanced.     Tessa, our 11 year old granddaughter had begged off from going with us. Her brother, our 15 year old grandson Michael was away at a youth retreat with church.  Our son-in-law Adam was on his way home from Kansas and a hunting trip.    Driving to pick up Gabriel and Mia, Kenny asked me "Should we call Tessa to see if we can talk her into going?"  I told him yes.  I figured she would do for him what she wouldn't do for me.    I called and got Crystal, our daughter on the phone.    She was acting a little odd.  I asked her if she was okay? She told me her heart was beating like crazy. Very hard, very rapid and then she began to cry.  We told her to hang on we were on the way.

      We called Jared and told him what was going on.  We'd come get the kids as soon as we could.

We stopped by our house on the way and grabbed my stethoscope.   A few minutes later we were with Crystal at her home.   Tessa was in the living room. Crystal was in the bedroom.  I listened to her heart.  It was in the worst arrhythmia I'd ever heard.   It was beating so fast and so irregular I could hardly count it.    I told Kenny to take her to the ER immediately. We paused long enough to hold hands and pray.  We asked the Lord for His intervention.  I gathered up Tessa and comforted her.  I took her to our home.  I called Jared and Lydia and asked them to just bring the kids to me please?  We were keeping them for their anniversary date. 

        Kenny took Crystal to the ER at Blount Memorial Hospital.   They checked her and found she was in atrial fibrillation. It means the top two chambers of the heart are quivering and beating erratically.    Her pulse was between 150 and 180 beats per minute.    You cannot allow a heart to remain in this pattern and rate for long. It will damage the cardiac muscle and can lead to an arrest.   

          They ran an adenosine challenge test which is a test to look for accessory electrical pathways in the heart.  We have three electrical nodes in our hearts to keep it beating and in the right pattern and rate.   Sometimes a strand of cardiac muscle fiber develops into an extra electrical node in a fetus.   Our son Jared had this and had surgery to ablate it.   He is cured.

My aunt had this as well.     Crystal was tested and passed the adenosine test.   It can sometimes help a person's heart get back in the right pattern just from that.   It didn't work for her. 

It did prove she did not have SVT or an extra electrical node.    It took quite awhile and three drugs to find one that calmed her heart down to a normal rate.    It did not convert back to normal sinus rhythm until late Saturday evening.   

    She was admitted and Kenny came home to trade me jobs.   Tessa and I went to pack Crystal a bag and Tessa a bag.    She helped me take it to her mom.  She needed to see her mom to feel better.      Crystal was not in the ER but was in a room on the fifth floor.     We walked up to see her.   She looked better. She was more relaxed and calm.     I'd been keeping Adam updated.  I had texted our pastor Chad Morrison to let him know what was going on.  We requested prayer.

        God is merciful and great every single day.    The cardiologist they referred her to was not accepting new patients.   Yet Monday he agreed to see her.   He called her to come in and get hooked up to a Holter monitor.     Adam got home very late Saturday night.  Actually it was 1 am Sunday morning before he arrived.   It was good that he was traveling with his father Mike.

It was beautiful to see my son, Jared come into my home and get down on his knees beside his niece.  He hugged Tessa and comforted her and reassured her.  He prayed with her.    He has become the man I always hoped he would be.   What a far cry we are from the troubles of the past.    

    Family is everything, but the extends to our church family of God as well.   Michael was told by our youth pastor Donnie Alexander.  He was supported and his friends prayed over him and for Crystal.  Kaiser Murrell declared HE was praying for them above all else.   Michael described the scene at the youth retreat.    We are truly blessed.   We have a good family who sticks together. 

Kenny and I are a good team. We tag teamed child care, meals, grocery shopping, errands and got it all done.     Our pastor Chad came by Saturday evening to check on Crystal in hospital. He went and got her dinner so Kenny could head home.  

       I don't know what will come of all this, but I am 100% sure that God is working it all out for her health, our peace and His glory.   

        Something told Kenny to call.   Something told Tessa NOT to leave home, but stick around with her mom.   I was told by someone that isn't how God works.  I disagree.   He speaks to us 

all the time if we will listen.    His angels care for us and watch over us to help us and guard us.

I am proud that my 11 year old granddaughter already recognizes His voice and heeds it.  

       Believe what you will.  I know what I know.  

      

 I will update this as we know more..   

        

Sunday Dec. 5, 2024 Crystal had a pretty bad episode with her heart at the Women's church Christmas party.   Caught the whole thing on the monitor.    Monitor tech called her.  It resolved with medicine. 

Cardiologist office called on Monday evening around 5 pm 12/6/24. They will see her at 3:30 p.m. today Tues. 12/7/24.    

Hopefully we'll have more definite answers after today.  I look for her to have an electrophysiology study and possibly an ablation to cure this. 

12/7/2024 Tues.  

Dr. Scott has determined Crystal does have SVT and has put her on daily medication.  Something that should be more effective than what she'd been taking.   She goes back in a couple weeks to have a repeat EKG.  She will have a visit with a special cardiologist who does electrophysiology studies of the heart.    They are the electricians of the heart world.  She will likely need a catheter ablation of the area in her heart muscle that the abnormal electrical signal is coming from.  

above:  a colorful leaf on a gum tree in our campground

Red River Gorge Camping & Hiking

Thursday Nov. 7 through Sunday Nov. 10, 2024

Kenny & Dana Koogler Fortieth Wedding Anniversary Trip

Pictures are Here 

Gorge Underground Info 

  We were married November 10, 1984 on a Saturday afternoon.   We planned a trip to get away together and celebrate forty years of marriage this November!    We wanted to do something completely different for us.   I found the glow kayaking info somewhere on the internet and planned the trip around that.  We visited Red River Gorge, Kentucky for the first time ever.

Based on the information I was finding I knew it would be a fun packed trip with way too much to see in a single weekend.   It turned out to be very true and just as much fun as anticipated. 

I am now a bigger fan of Kentucky as a destination.

     

      I had pre-booked our Gorge Underground Glow Kayaking experience.  You paddle around a flooded limestone mine in clear kayaks with neon glow lights!  Some of our family did this in Panama City Beach at night with kayaks on the ocean.  It wasn't very popular or fun according to most.   Some got motion sick.    We wouldn't have to be concerned with that on the calm waters of a flooded mine.     If you ever want to do this plan way in advance.  It is very popular and I can't remember how many folks I have heard from who said " They were all booked up when I tried to go!". They were booking quite a ways out when we were there.  

Below:  the flowers Kenny got me for our anniversary. 💓

        We chose to camp at 4 Guys RV Park since we didn't know what the state resort park would be like.  We'd had enough of poor accommodations.   The campground we chose was conveniently located, reasonably priced, and had good wi-fi.  We knew we'd use our phones a fair amount to look up places to visit and how to get there.     Many places we have stayed you can barely get a phone signal or not at all much less internet signal.     I had never been to Stanton, Kentucky before, but Kenny had.  He said it was a fair sized town. Bigger than Slade, but not much.   

  

above and below: Two different views of 4 Guys RV Park during our visit.  It was nice.  

          

  

       We only had half day to do anything by the time we arrived and got set up.   The destination was a four hour drive for us.  It included stopping in Corbin for lunch and to stock up on groceries.  I also went shopping at Beall's Outlet for a few minutes.    My weakness when shopping is bedroom slippers and soft pajamas.  I learned to love PJ's when I was working night shift.     I resisted the urge and did not buy  either.  I did buy a new Christmas table clothe as my best one got stained.  We looked around to see what was in the area?  We went down the road a short distance and checked out the Red River Gorge Earth Shop.       It was one of the few spots to do any shopping in the vicinity.   It was very nice, but the items were very pricey.  I got a small souvenir for myself and a couple for the grandkids.    I love octopi so I got me a tchochke that was an octopus holding a stone.  The best thing we got at the store was a map of the area.   It was very helpful.  It was the roads in the immediate area and the highlights of what to do and see.  We used it the rest of the trip! 

Below: My octopus holding a beautiful polished stone. 

Below:  Bigfoot was locked up at the Earth Shop.  

   

         Nada Tunnel & Steel Bridge

   We noticed Nada Tunnel mentioned on the map.  It was very nearby and the folks at the store sorted us out about it.  I thought it was an abandoned tunnel to walk or ride through.  It is not. It is an active/still in use road tunnel that carries SR 77 through Tunnel Ridge.    It can be driven by most passenger vehicles, but it is only around 12 feet high.   We drove out there to check it out.  

I have learned since returning home that the area surrounding it is full of other arches, waterfalls and stuff worth seeing!  The scenery was a little drab and gray, but still pretty. Most of the Fall colors had faded, but the bit that was left was still nice.     It didn't take long until we could see the tunnel ahead.    We drove through it and had to back up once before we could proceed. Another vehicle was coming through. It is a one vehicle at a time space. You don't have room to pass or turn around.     I failed to take photos of the Nada Tunnel, but below is a video of it that is better anyhow.  It  shows the experience.  It has been popular on my YouTube channel.  

After the Nada Tunnel there really wasn't a great place to pull over and turn around. Kenny kept going out to the end of the road.  We figured there would be a better spot at an intersection to reverse course.  

It was a good thing we kept going. The map mentioned on it "Steel Bridge" and there was one! It was one of those Pratt truss style bridges I like so much.  It was a pretty spot for sure.   I have been surprised at finding it. I have also been surprised how many of my friends have said they'd never known of it either!  The daylight was fleeting so we didn't explore too much.   We were just happy to go back to the camper and relax.    We fixed a nice dinner.  Looking around at the dining options for the area we were a little surprised.   Don't plan on going out anywhere fancy for a meal when in this area.  You'd best plan on bringing your own food and preparing it at home.  We learned from this trip not to plan on shopping, dining out, or anything the least bit fancy.  Even the Sandstone Arches restaurant at the local state resort park was not fancy.  It was fast food options and very limited hours.  By this time of year the leaf peeping season is about over.  Businesses here either close for the season or shorten their hours.   Apparently this restaurant has lunch and dinner hours most of the time. 

above: approaching the bridge in Kenny's pickup.

Below: the Steel Bridge across the Red River.  

Gorge Underground and Glow Kayaking 

  Friday morning after breakfast we headed over to Gorge Underground which was around 2 miles away from us.    We had a tour time from 10:00 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.  We got there right on time.  We were greeted by a nice lady in the gift shop who instructed us on what to take, what to leave behind and what we might need.  The only thing we took was my Go Pro camera.  We rented neoprene dry socks for our feet from them.  It was $2 per person for the rental and worth every penny.  You have to leave your shoes at the dock in the cave.   It is 56 degrees in the air and 38 degrees in the water.    It was a nice day outside in the sunshine, but the weather conditions don't change much in the mine.    We had a very nice pair of guides. They were informative, helpful and pleasant.     They give you a helmet and life jacket as part of the tour to keep you safe.

    We had fun on our tour.   The cave was an old limestone mine.  They mined until eventually they hit a couple aquifers.   They pumped water out of the mine for the years they continued to operate it.  Once mining was done and the mine abandoned they let it flood.   The depth was from a few feet to 20 feet plus.   The water was incredibly clear and you could see things on the bottom of the mine!   Pipes, objects like cell phones people dropped!   We also saw some trout swimming round in the mine.     Very cool.     The ceiling of the mine in some spots had a type of glow in the dark bacteria that sparkled like glitter when the light hit it!   

        

                

Above: Kenny in helmet and ready to paddle. 
Below:  our group getting ready to set off from the dock area

Below:   the bow of my kayak and a view of the mine.  Photo opportunities are rather limited and difficult.  You're trying to paddle, stay out of others way, keep moving, not turn over, not hit the walls of the mine or get too close to them.   The dim light made it tough as well.  I got a lot of blurry images. Despite the lights on the kayaks and at some places in the mine the photography aspect was rather disappointing.  The experience was fun enough to make up for it. 

Below is a video of the experience that better illustrates what it was like.

 

   Once we got our glow kayaking tour over we stopped in the gift shop once more.  We tipped the guides.   We also got us each a souvenir of the trip in the form of a RRG t shirt.   We headed from there to Miguel's Pizza for lunch.  This was another first for us.   It was a neat place and the pizza was quite good.   It was fast service. Plenty of seating.  Uncrowded but busy.   The pizza portions were enormous and tasty.  It is a spot for the areas many rock climbers.   You see all kinds of people there though. It isn't JUST for climbers.   They have a tent camping area out back, and next door is a rock climbing shop.    I was surprised how many people I saw coming and going who were NOT climbers.  They were obviously on a lunch break from work and dressed as business professionals.  Once we got lunch over we moved on to our next adventure for the day.

     

Below are a few photos of Miguel's.  It is real colorful and eye catching. 

Below : indoors at Miguel's. 

  

Natural Bridge Resort State Park 

  We headed next to the Natural Bridge Resort State Park which was just down the road a short distance.   We wanted to ride the Sky Lift and see the natural bridge.    It was one of the main attractions of this trip.      The ticket counter is in a gift shop that had some of the neatest souvenirs.    We really need to come back and check this place out more fully next trip. Perhaps we'll camp here next time?

   The day was warmed up to about sixty five degrees and sunny with the prettiest blue skies.  The remaining Autumn colors were vibrant.     The entire area going up was pretty scenery.   The parking area was pretty!  

Above: the parking area at the state park.  


Below:  the Sky Lift as we started up

Below:  You can see the fiery reds showing up on the left in the forest.  

  

Below is a video of going UP.  

    We enjoyed  the leisurely ride up to the top on the Sky Lift.   Once up there it was a very short hike to the Natural Bridge.  I had seen photos of it, but they just don't do it justice.  It is astonishing in size and the view!    Very dramatic scenery.   You can walk across the top of the arch/bridge.  You can sit in a pavilion at the far side and enjoy the scenery in the shade.  You can go UNDER the arch.  You can walk out past it along the base of the bluff.  You can hike out to Lookout Point and view the arch by looking back at it.  It is all easy hiking and none over half mile or so.  It is colorful in Autumn. We saw lots of people, but it wasn't crowded.     

  I am including a link to the view back at the arch from Lookout Point, but not embedding the video.  This Trip was video heavy which makes for a long trip report.  

Instead here is a video below of the arch itself. On top and under.  

     We enjoyed exploring the arch and the grandstand views.   We hiked under the under and through a squeeze we didn't expect.   We then doubled back and Kenny wanted to hike out to the Lookout Point.

I told him I'd make him a deal. If he'd buy us a bottled water I'd go. It had warmed up and I was hot and thirsty.   Once we had a cold sip of water we were good to go.  We hiked out there and got to look back at the natural bridge.   We visited with another couple briefly.  They were newly weds!   Just getting started in their life together. Very cool.  The hike was pretty and short.   Once back at the sky lift boarding area we loaded up for what looked to be a fun ride back down the mountain side

Below: a view to the west from the natural bridge

Below: walking across the bridge

Below: a view from the bridge to the east/northeast. The rocks in the distance are Lookout Point

Below: the rock squeeze to go down under the bridge

Below:  I'm under the bridge looking up. whoa! 

Below:  the curve of the arched bridge.  what a view! 

Below: Start of the hike  to Lookout Point

Below:  A poorly light and contrasted shot from Lookout Point back at the natural bridge.  it is very hard to see in my photo. 

Below is a very funny video of the exciting and hilarious ride DOWN the Sky lift! Kenny is a hot mess, but I learned on this trip I am not alone. I met a sister female who is in the same boat with me.  Kenny tells  you everything that can go wrong on something that is already scary.  The guy coming up the other side was acting just the same!  

   We made it onto the Sky Lift and back down to the base of the mountain.   I was tired and ready to head back to the camper.   I needed some cough medicine as I was starting into a bad cold.  I think the changeable weather has worked me over.    It taxes my immune system.    We went back to the camper and it was not that late in the day.  We decided to  have supper then afterwards ride into Stanton to buy some steak for the next night.  Now that we knew we weren't going out to eat anymore we'd just fix our own gourmet meal.      I also wanted to get a finer paint brush for detail if I could find one.  I figured a Dollar General store would probably have one.   

     We made it to Stanton and got the items we were looking for.  It is a nice little town and you can get groceries and necessities there, but not much more.   I'd say a lot of these folks drive to Corbin or Lexington if they need to do any serious shopping.    

    I did a little painting and playing around.  It isn't great, but I had fun and it is therapeutic.  During times of stress you need to inspire (art/music) or perspire!  (exercise) I was getting in some of both this trip.     We had a nice evening together just the two of us.   

Below is a painting of an old insul-brick house in Fall.  I found out once I got home that I had the perfect frame and mat for this.  

Rock Bridge and Creation Falls Loop Hike 

1.5 miles easy round trip

    We decided the next day we'd take the suggestions on the map and hit up some area hikes.  I had looked up some things prior to the trip.  We' d then proceed around the map counter clockwise stopping to do some of the hikes it suggested.     We'd start off with the Rock Bridge and Creation Falls Loop.

It has a waterfall, a natural bridge, and an overlook. The scenery was beautiful, healthy hemlock forest!    We enjoyed it and got there early.   Good thing too!  This is a popular hike.  We had no trouble finding parking when we arrived, but when we left it was packed.    They have restrooms at the trailhead.

Also trash bins and picnic tables.      It is worth mentioning for myself if nothing else... the original plan for this hike was to include Turtle Arch and Pooches Turtle Falls.  It has been dry and we couldn't justify the additional miles to see the waterfall today.  It doesn't flow wonderfully even in times of greater rainfall.    We'd leave that for another trip.  We had no shortage of places to see since we'd never been to this area before.   

           We just happened to hike the loop counter clockwise.  It is a good way to do it.  It has you descending on stairs, but coming back up a more gradual, dirt slope instead.  That is the side where you hit the overlook.  I knew the falls and the natural bridge were a little closer to the counter clockwise end.     We encountered lots of other family groups.  It was great fun watching people's little ones.. One lady I ran into was a lot like me laughing and carrying on at her husband.   I told them she was from MY tribe!    He was too though.  He was Mr. Nosey and I share that trait.   

     Creation Falls is lovely and was flowing, but not a bunch.   It was still worth the hike. 

They have built a platform to view it from or  you can easily go down to the base from either direction.

 Swift Camp Creek flows to make the falls and continues onward flowing under the Rock Bridge. 

Below is Creation Falls 

       

Below:  Rock Bridge with Swift Camp Creek flowing under it. This is from the far side of the bridge

Below:  Swift Camp Creek flows onward 

  We enjoyed this hike a bunch.  It felt great to be out on the trail getting some exercise and fresh air. It was the perfect temperature for hiking today.   Not hot and not cold.   Once we'd finished this hike we continued counter clockwise on the road to the turn off onto Chimney Rock Road.    

                 Chimney Top Rock Overlook and Princess Arch 

  We drove out Chimney Top Rock Road to its end and the parking lot for Chimney Rock to the left and Princess Arch hike to the right.    We stopped long enough to eat lunch before we hit the trail.   It was midday so we were in need of fuel for the rest of the day.   Here is a link to the video of Princess Arch. I am not embedding it since it was not my favorite. It has a lot of people in it. It is one of those places that is hard to get a video or photo minus people.  This hike was crowded.

Princess Arch Video Link Here.

    We first hiked out a ridge to Princess Arch.  It was pretty and the view was nice. We saw some pretty Fall color here.  It was just covered up with people and dogs.    The arch sits slightly below the main bluff level.  You hike gradually down to it. It is good in that you can get to many different angles to explore it.  It has lots of holes and swirls on it.  

Below: Princess Arch.  The string of people never let up. 

    

 

    The hike to either Chimney Top Rock or Princess Arch was an easy 1/2 mile round trip each.   So while Princess Arch was not a favorite it was not a huge investment in energy or time.  

   We crossed the parking area and hiked out to the dramatic Chimney Top Rock overlook. This was nice. It had lots of people as well, but it wasn't quite as bad.   

  The neatest part of this hike was being able to look to our left and see the beautiful, dramatic Halfmoon Rock.  I'd never even heard of it.  It is a dangerous, difficult hike where lots of people have fallen to their deaths.   The rock narrows to a 2 foot wide scramble to reach the summit.  I think I can make it to the Halfmoon Arch, but I don't think I'm going to attempt Halfmoon Rock.

I'm not that nimble anymore.    The days of me and extreme risk taking are over.  I have climbed up on Chimney Tops in the Smokies and stood there looking around, but it is not that bad.  It is dangerous and you cannot even get out there now legally.     Kenny had a gleam in his eyes about that trek that scared me.  He looked rabid about it.  Once I showed him a video of it he sobered up.    It is no joke.  

  

     Below: Halfmoon Rock. You can see people out there. Brave and foolish souls. 

       

Below is a view from Chimney Top Rock 

Below is a video of the Chimney Top Rock Overlook.  It was a nice, easy hike with some dramatic views to both sides.    We hiked back to the truck at a nice easy pace and headed onward to the next hike. 

Angel Windows 

  The next thing was Whistling Arch which we skipped.  We went on to Angel Windows.  It sounded a little more interesting.     We got there and found the parking area pretty full.  It wasn't as packed as some of the others, but it was busy.  The hike was an easy 1/2 mile round trip, but Angel Windows wasn't that great.  It is a pair of arches that remind me of a pair of glasses. 

It is neat, but never going to be a favorite of mine.   The most fun thing we saw was a group of children with their parents. The kids had posted themselves up in a rock shelter and were  playing cave man or camping.  The parents were captives to the kids. They were so sweetly allowing the kids to play as much as they wanted.    Each rock house they came to inspired some new play!

Below is one of the Angel Windows

Below is a video of Angel Windows

  Once we completed this hike I had a snack and a drink in the truck.  I felt drained. 

We motored on toward Sky Bridge which was next.  By the time we got there I was not interested in doing a single other thing.   The ride  home was pretty, but  I was starting to feel poorly. 

I told Kenny and he sweetly agreed that was enough for the day.   We are far less ambitious these days.      We went back to the camper and I got a cup of hot coffee and took a rest.  I was then able to feel well enough to fix and enjoy a nice steak dinner with Kenny.     I took a hot shower after dinner and we had a cozy, romantic evening.     I feel very blessed to have a good man for a husband.   He puts up with a lot and takes great care of me.    We both agreed that since Kenny was going to have a busy week at work we'd get going after breakfast in the morning.   We were facing a four hour drive home.  We both are realistic about the unpacking and putting the camper away.  We've been at this long enough to know how to budget our time and energy.

Sunday Heading Home 

      Sunday we drove home and unpacked.   I was feeling about the same. I still wasn't right. I just figured I had a cold.    The hours between bedtime Sunday and O dark thirty Monday morning I woke up a lot sicker and my lungs were in bad shape.  I had a sore throat and a low grade fever.  I knew I was heading into bronchitis.   I called the doctor on Monday morning and went in to be treated.  I had a cortisone shot and antibiotics and was soon mended.    I'm used to this by now.

 Things We Didn't See Yet in This Area

•   Whistling Arch,
•  Sky Bridge, 
• Kentucky Reptile Zoo,  
• Gladie Visitor Center,  t
• 
  
• Sheltowee Trace suspension bridge , 
• Tower Rock, 
• Too Many Arches to Count 

On Future trips they will be mainly hiking, but there is a little four wheeling in the vicinity.  I have not seen any videos or photos of rides at Hollerwood that make me want to go there.   We could maybe drive into Lexington one day and do some dining/shopping and see some good waterfalls.   It was a good start to our exploration and enjoyment of a new area for us. 

    

Skinner Mountain Four Wheeling--Fall 2024

above: Red Maple Leaves near the Bredesen Overlook

Skinner Mountain Four Wheeling--Fall 2024

Kenny & Dana Koogler

Saturday Oct. 26, 2024

Skinner Mountain Trip Photos are Here

Skinner Mountain WMA Map 

  I had spoken to Sharon once we got to Jamestown.  We realized in the course of the conversation it probably wasn't going to work out for us to get up with her. Scheduling confusion and conflicts made it that way.  I gave Nelson Matthews a call to line up a meeting with him to go riding the next day.   Our friend was having a rough go with atrial fibrillation. He didn't feel like it was a good idea to go.  I couldn't say I blamed him under the circumstances.   The friends thing just wasn't in the cards this go round.   No matter. Kenny and I would go and have fun.  

   Friday night we got a nice rain shower.  We were glad to hear it.  It quenches our drought and is good sleeping weather.   I love to sleep.   I had a man patient one time say to me "I'm gonna tell you about yourself." and he proceeded to do just that.   He told me he bet I was rotten after my husband and hated it when he was away working out of town.   He said he bet I slept in one of Kenny's t shirts with his stink on it.  I was floored.  I asked him how he knew?  He laughed and said I'm in the same line of work. You put me in mind of my own wife.  I know what she does and how she is.  I was just betting you were  like that.   I laughed for he had described me very, very well.    I always sleep better when Kenny is by me.   I am ruined.  

       We slept in a little bit on Saturday, but got up and packed our gear and lunch.  We set off toward Skinner Mountain.   It felt like it hadn't been that long between trips, but it was longer than we imagined.    It felt good to be heading back to one of our favorite places.     The entire ride was pretty. I looked up the previous trip dates in Autumn when things were so perfect.  

It was the second weekend in November 2022.   We were two weeks early so I hoped the colors would be nice.  I needn't have worried.   

Below is a video of our ride on Skinner Mountain.  

    Kenny asked me if I wanted to stop at the overlook?  I said of course!  We rode out there creeping past The Big Crack! It is a dramatic spot on the mountain where the trail and the ridge is super narrow.   Trees have come down on one side of it, and some damage has occurred to the trail.    The view from the Bredesen Overlook was gorgeous!   Maple and oak trees in the forest were bright red, yellows, oranges.  I could still see a fair amount of green in the tree canopy so they were definitely not at peak.  

       Below: a zoomed in view of the colors at Bredesen Overlook. 

Below: Bredesen Overlook View 

Below: plaque at the overlook

Below: a different vantage catching the fiery red leaves at the far left edge of the overlook

Below:  a different composition but still from overlook on the far right

Below: Tree and leaf colors in the forest just before the overlook

Below: one of my favorite scenes from all day was this shot taken on the main trail on top of Skinner Mountain. 

Below is the only photo I captured of the big crack and the downed trees. I need to do a video of the crack to show how it really is. How narrow and deep. 

  

Below is a video of the view from Bredesen Overlook 

   

    We reversed course and headed across the big crack and out the main trail.  Skinner Mountain's main trail has some deep, squishy mudholes. One in particular is so bad that the work around is usually worse than chancing the regular trail.  The work around has turned us over on the side before.   Conditions are still pretty dry despite the rain the night before.   We had a goal to get to Big Piney today so we did not take some of the typical side trips on top the mountain today.   We skipped the fire tower site, pond, rat castle, and the overlooks to the north.     We were able to get an answer on something today that I'd wondered for awhile.  I spotted an old road heading to the north into the Mill Creek drainage.  

I was able to get Kenny to slow down and really take a gander down in there this trip.  There IS indeed a trail that goes down toward Mill Creek and parallels the main trail.  It runs along on the hip of the mountain below.    It is NOT a side by side trail.  Foot travel or dirt bike only.   Too narrow and it eventually comes back out on the main trail anyhow.   Nothing major to see down there.

      We arrived at the big intersection and headed down into Lost Cane.  It was pretty down there, but the first part is a lot of second or third growth poplars tightly packed together.   It is like a wall of skinny trees on either side of the trail.    It will never be my favorite spot on this ride.   

above: loads of skinny poplar trees to either side at the start of Lost Cane.

Below: another section of trail a bit further out Lost Cane.  Lots of green down here still. Not as pretty as it will be in two weeks. 

 We rolled along down Lost Cane and passed all the spots where there are wet weather waterfalls. Not one of them was flowing.     We passed the section where the monolith sits.  I was very glad I got a photo of it in previous years.   Today a tree had broken and was messing up the view.  The leaves were not pretty this year around it at least not yet.    This section of the trail has quite a few boulders to the left and right. More on the right... that are the size of houses.   They are fascinating to see.  I remember seeing a spot on the far left  heading in where someone had stashed a bunch of sifters where they'd been looking for artifacts.   This was new. I'd caught someone doing this down in Little Saigon before, but they'd moved their operation to another spot.  

   We got to the bottom of Lost Cane and heard other machines coming.   We stopped to wait.  It was a bunch of hog hunters and their dogs.   They had just killed a big wild pig down in there.  They left it behind. I imagine scavengers or bears will eat it.   

Below: one of the dogs has been injured by the wild hog.  The owner who was a Georgia boy, said he'd tend to him once they got back to the trucks.  We spoke to them briefly and moved onward.

      We made the turn to head to Frank's Flume.    The little hunter's shack down in there is completely collapsed now.   The trail got more and more damaged the further we went. Flooding, erosion, debris, hogs and use have torn the place to shreds.    It was so bad the water down in that holler would have been twelve to fifteen feet deep in places during the last flood event.   You could tell the level by the debris caught in the tree limbs.   It would be terrifying to be down in there during such an event. 

Before the water shooting out of Frank's Flume formed a pretty creek, flowed a short distance and disappeared below ground at a swallet.  It still does, but the thick layers of mud, sandy sediment together with debris mats of limbs and leaves have it ugly and hard to approach.  The side hollers were flushed out of debris and it piled up at their mouths.   We need to take a day and open up a trail from Upper Bill's Creek down into Lost Cane that comes out BELOW Frank's Flume.   There is a 10 foot waterfall on the stream and the gorge walls are pinched in so high, tight and narrow it cuts off all progress a half mile to a mile above Frank's Flume.   

      The trail we usually use to make a loop was so eroded it was all but impassable.    We opted to turn around and leave the way we'd come in.  Leaving by continuing down Lost Cane toward Boatland Road is a pretty ride, but it is rocky. It's another good place to tear something up.     

Below: tobacco brown, copper and gold leaves in the part of Lost Cane heading to Frank's Flume

Below: Kenny checks the condition of the trail before we proceed

Above: Golden Woods down in Lost Cane near Frank's Flume

Below: Frank's Flume is a cave with water shooting out of it.  It is still running, but there isn't much water. 

Above:  Our machine at Frank's Flume

Below is a video of Frank's Flume 

   We checked out Frank's Flume and the beautiful golden forest here.  Leaves were filtering down through the air with the wind whirling them.  It was glorious!   We headed back and eventually made our way to the big intersection.  It was around 12:30 p.m. so we stopped to eat lunch.   We both felt better after a bite to eat.   Kenny wanted to get going toward Big Piney.   He chose a trail that went out to the left across the mountain top.  I have video proof I tried to warn him off that trail.   I tried to persuade him to take the trail we used the last Autumn we were here.  I knew that mountain top trail went across the flat top of the ridge.   It would likely be VERY muddy after last night's rain.   I anticipated trouble, but Kenny had his own ideas about things.    On we went.  I admit it was a beautiful ride.  The scenery and color here were outstanding.  

     We came to lots of mud holes nearly every one having its own "work around" spot to avoid going straight down the middle of them.   He missed a work around and plowed on ahead.  The RZR started to sink.  Mud started to sling and the machine its tires like mad.    Well, well, well.   He was cursing now.

I got out of the machine to try to hook up the winch.   It was out in the middle of that deep mud hole hard to reach without getting right in it.   He told me to move that he'd reach it for me.   I went round the machine to work the controls while he reached with his much longer arms.   He still couldn't get it. 

I handed him a stick to help snag it.    Finally he got it and we fooled with it for some time.  The controls were not affecting any change.  The winch was as stuck as we were.   I became very uneasy thinking we were done for.  I could picture us having to walk back down the mountain for help. 

     Finally the winch came unstuck and began working so we were able to pull ourselves free.  

Kenny went on out the trail, but upon seeing more and more mud holes he turned around and went the way I suggested.    I was relieved! 

Below is a video of us being stuck. It is worth mentioning that Kenny has already ordered a new winch cable to ensure that doesn't happen again!  

Below: the view out the trail at the big intersection.  This trail goes off the mountain down to Manson Road and is very, very steep. 




  We made our way off the mountain.  We passed a spot where there is a DEAD END sign that has been by a gate for at least a decade if not longer.   I put a way point on it because I wanted to figure where that went.  I figured it might go into the terrain near the headwaters of Lost Cane Creek.   I later learned it doesn't.  It just comes out on some private land on the far side of Bill's Creek. There were some folks who rented a cabin up in there years ago.   It comes out near that.

     We finally came out on Manson Road.   It was a little dusty, but very pretty.   The fields there were a different sort of vegetation with lots of color.  The trees and forest were a bit different.   We pushed onward out Manson Road in order to go through Big Piney the opposite way of what we usually do.

On the way we passed a gate that Kenny was looking for and it was OPEN!    I wanted to go down there to investigate, but he wouldn't do it. He said he was concerned there were hunters down there.  He didn't want to ruffle their feathers.    Trying to be polite.    


    

^^^
The three images above are scenes from just off Manson Road heading down into Big Piney. 



  We were riding along and came to the point where the trail descends for the first time to go down to the creek and the floor of the holler.    We heard more machines come from the opposite direction.   

It wasn't long until they came into view.  We stopped and got over for them as much as we could.

We stopped and talked to these folks for a little while. They were real nice.   We learned some interesting things in this conversation.   I recall a news article a year or so back that indicated Skinner Mountain WMA had several thousand acres added to it. It did not specify where the land parcel was.

Well today we found out.  It was down in that first yellow gate for one thing!  Property off Manson Road was included.    The game warden had told these local guys that if they encountered anyone locking those gates to go ahead and open them.   That the land was for public use.   So we could have gone down there after all.  Next time over we will have to go see for ourselves!

    We ran into more mud holes before we reached the stream in Big Piney.   Crazy as it was when we got to the stream it was bone dry!    We'd never seen the entire creek bed dry, but we had also never been down there in Fall before.  It was real pretty.   It would be prettier if the creek was flowing, but it was nice.  I was glad we went.  It was very quiet down here.  

Below: trail into Big Piney

Below:  trail leading down to the dry creek

Below:  Golden light down in Big Piney at the dry creek bed.  

Below is a video of the ride into Big Piney

   We crossed the stream at the main, big crossing and saw there was a little water in the stream there and there alone.    Once across we began our climb up and out of the hollow.   We enjoyed the scenery, but didn't try to get out to hunt for falls back in there as it was so dry now.    I mentioned to Kenny that 

I recalled seeing a rock house on the right side heading up toward Tay's.  We found a really big one on the opposite side, but I had not gone looking for the other one yet.   Today we found it, and more.

It was really easy to see because it had undergone some abuse that transformed it.     Trees cut down.

A tent pitched beneath it.   A fire pit built.  Golf clubs. Rotten stuffed animals covered in mildew lying about.   Household garbage like drink cans and food wrappers.   A target put in the trees and shot at for target practice.    It was a nasty mess.    It makes the fifth time in our exploring careers we've encountered what we call Camp Crud.      We stopped to investigate, but did not open the tent. 

I didn't smell dead body so I was happy to leave it alone.   

        

Below:  trash at Camp Crud and a sifter. Someone had been digging and sifting for artifacts. 

Below: Tent beneath the rock house

Below: pretty forest out from the rock shelter

Below:  a view of the rock shelter which was pretty neat before they trashed it.  

Above:  Finally emerging onto Manson Road which is very, very pretty in Fall.  

   

Above: Octagon House with torn up window blinds! 

    Finally we came back out on Manson Road and began our drive into the Wilder Mountain subdivision.   We found our way onto the trail that goes by the Octagon House.   It is a pretty ride with a lot of ups and downs.   It crosses some drainages that have a few little cascades when it isn't so dry.   We came by the Octagon House which has stood abandoned for a decade or more.   The window blinds were trashed. Kenny remarked that "The cats have torn up the blinds! It doesn't matter where your house is. If you have cats and blinds they WILL tear them up!"  Our cats have ruined our blinds three or four times.   They are working on the fourth set now!  

    We kept moving and got to the river trail at last.  The East Fork river was very dry also.

Parts of it had water, but not much.    We encountered the same group of riders at the final creek crossing.  One man introduced himself as Russell Hall.  Kenny and him visited for awhile.  They were all local and very nice people.    The river trail is about the same as usual.  It was drastically altered from flooding.  It changes pretty much every time we go through there.  The trail has some serious flood damage down near the big, main ford.  

         We made our way back out to Bills Creek and Boatland Road.   The road between there and Sharon's where we'd parked the truck seemed to go on forever.   I was so happy to see the vehicle when we got back.  I was ready to go to the camper.   It was a fun day. We got the experience of smelling the scents of Autumn and being fully immersed in the sights and sounds.   It was exactly what I needed!

     We made it back to the camper and took a breather before starting to fix dinner.   

I felt like we'd had a good two days worth of riding and was satisfied to go home on Sunday.

Below is a short video of the last ride of the day. Wilder Mountain Subdivision to the Octagon House.