Above: Fiery red sumac leaves
Above: Fiery red sumac leaves
Cheoah to the Cherohala : Peak Autumn Colors Weekend
10/28/2023
Dana & Kenny Koogler
Photos are Here:
Cheoah to Cherohala Auto Touring Directions
We originally planned to go to the Cumberland Plateau hiking, exploring and four wheeling this weekend. I was going to take my friend Sharon's vehicle back over and drop it off at her house.
Last weekend we had a fun day of hiking, but the drought we are in was disappointing.
I really did not want a repeat of the ultra dry conditions. I did some checking around finding that the Snowbird Mountains have fared better. It was not nearly so dry over that way. I talked Kenny into just a day trip over that way instead. I could tell he was dubious about the last minute change of plans. I decided that we'd make it a special day. I was scheming and planning the entire time. Friday night I packed us a picnic/cookout. I had already topped off my tank with fuel. Saturday I made my mind up I was going to see what I could get by with.
The drive over Foothills Parkway was grand. The Fall colors were popping as were the views. The weather was going to be perfect and clear. I could see the shaconage in the distance hovering over the mountains. That is the Cherokee word for "place of blue smoke". We had braced ourselves to cope with the barrage of motorcycle riders on highway 129. It turned out better than anticipated since it was early in the day. The views and foliage on the drive over the Dragon was pretty. About the time we approached Deal's Gap I said to Kenny "You know, we could go to Tapoco Lodge tavern for lunch today?! They have pizza and beer!" He grinned and said we'd see. I figured we'd do that for lunch and then save the packed picnic for dinner.
We stopped at the Cheoah Dam and bridge over Calderwood Lake. I wanted to get photos and video of the dam. He pulled over and we got out to walk around. Two of the ideas tossed around on the drive over were the idea of taking the canoe on Calderwood and through the train tunnel. The other was paddling back to visit Panther Branch Falls again. We have done that once before and it was incredibly beautiful. You are guaranteed to have that to yourself.
Above: Cheoah Dam from the bridge
Below: Looking from the Hwy 129 bridge out over Calderwood Lake where the Cheoah River empties into it below the dam. The old bridge piers are visible in the image. There are actually five of them total.
We continued down the road to our destination for the morning. We were going to hike up to Yellow Creek Falls. We've been here numerous times before, but it had been a long time between visits plus we've never hiked it in Fall. The trees along the road were ablaze with colors!
Yellow Creek Falls Hike
Below: Hwy 129 viewed from the parking area for Yellow Creek Falls
The mountain above the road was glowing with color.
Below is a view of the mountain from the parking spot.
I walked over to Yellow Creek to see it for myself before we began our hike. I could hear it gushing before it flowed under the road. I was happy to see water levels much better over here in these mountains.
Below is a view of the stream and a particularly pretty orange sugar maple.
Yellow Creek Falls is a very short hike and not difficult. I carried my pack with my camera gear and a sip of green tea, but aside from that we didn't take anything. We started making our way up the trail. I could not help myself. I was a picture taking, video shooting fool. I am loving that I'm getting my groove back. Getting out more. Getting more exercise. Filling up my head and heart with beautiful scenery, fresh air, sunshine, and great memories. I'm regaining my sense of self and my balance in life. I have long waited this day to come and I am grateful it is here.
Below is a view of the trail as it starts up a set of steps. The trail is all on the left of the stream heading to the falls.
Below: Golden cathedral towers above us and is all around us!
Above: Kenny ahead of me on the hike. This is his favorite time of year.
It is worth mentioning that Brookfield Renewable U.S. energy company owns this land. They have graciously allowed the public access to this and more. There is a cool bridge constructed along the way. I have a photo of it below. It is a wooden bridge with rhododendron branches used as the sides. Very intricate and pretty as well as functional.
Below: Trail bridge heading to Yellow Creek Falls with the neat rhodo branch details.
We turned aside in several places to view other drops of the stream. Each one prettier than the last.
Below: One of the larger drops of Yellow Creek before the main falls.
The hike is not long or difficult at all so in no time we got our first glance at the falls in the distance. The trail works its way down to the base where you can view it from a couple vantage points. One is out on a large rock. We encountered the first other hikers of the day. A group of four adults were coming up the trail. I stood aside and let them pass me. I made my way down the slope to the viewing rock. I began checking out the falls and enjoying it, but I was looking for something else. I saw a solar cross carved into the rock on a previous trip. I have photos of it prove it. I looked and looked, but did not see it. Finally I gave up. I just soaked up the view of the falls and the colors. A lady hiker came along and went up to the falls to view it from closer. We had the big rock occupied so I guess she was trying to stay out of our way. I wondered if I'd seen the carving in a different spot than I recalled? I walked over closer to the falls and looked about for it. I asked her if she had ever been here before? She indicated she had not. I told her I was looking for a carving.
Below are two images I shot of Yellow Creek Falls. The top one is shot with the Go Pro.
The bottom one is shot with my Canon EOS T3i. It out performed the Go Pro today by a mile.
I went back to where Kenny sat and the big rock to view the falls again. I walked out there and started brushing leaves off with my hands and feet. I was looking determinedly for that solar circle. I did not see it. I stood up and let my eyes wander and relax. I looked back at the rock and there it was! Right by my boot! I may have been standing atop of it. It was very worn. The solar circle is an ancient symbol that has many meanings and has been used by lots of cultures around the planet. It is possible it dates back to the Cherokees or even further back to the Mound Builders.
Below is one of the shots I took of it. I placed some pine needles in the grooves that cross it. It is so faint it has gotten hard to see. I was elated that I'd found it where I believed it was.
Looking downstream at the lower cascades and the golden leaves.
On our hike out Kenny was ahead of me again. I felt something hit me back of my knees. I looked to see what ran into me? It was a black and tan bear dog. He was wearing a collar with an antenna. A couple hikers passed me going to the falls. I had them catch him and hold him. I got him to me and looked at his collar. I could tell he hadn't been out long. He was well fed and clean. I kept him by me. I memorized the name of the owner and the phone number. I decided I'd call them when I got a phone signal. He stayed just ahead of me walking out. I was thrilled that his mama came looking for him up the trail before I got there ! Madison Corbin of Robbinsville is a pretty gal and a nice lady. He was in the dog box with his fellow dogs by the time I got to the jeep. She saw me tending to him and waited to thank me. I have said before I have utmost respect for bear hunters. The ones we've met are good people. They are always willing to help get a dog back to its owner. Often they know exactly who the owner is. If you ever find a lost bear dog get it back to the nearest bear hunter group and they'll care for the dog and return it. I am a softie for dogs. I heard him baying before we left. I love the sound of a coon dog or bear dog baying as long as it isn't when I'm trying to sleep!
** Note to Self** The trail continues up past Yellow Creek Falls following the stream. Hike it on up next trip for their may be another falls above this one based on the water flow and topography.
Below is a video of the Yellow Creek Falls hike. It was more work than usual, but I like how this video turned out. I've been striving to improve. Watching videos of other talented folk have inspired me and helped me see what I needed to do to get better.
Lunch at Tapoco Tavern
Kenny was hungry by the time we got back to the jeep. It was around 11:30-11:45 a.m.
He was more than ready to give Tapoco Tavern a try. Our picnic meal was prepped, but would take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to cook. We headed the short distance back down to Tapoco. I was very excited. It was another one of those places I kept meaning to go, but never had so far. It is so historically special I did not want to live with the regret of never having gone.
I have seen such places shut their doors for good. I remember when Fontana Village and Inn were floundering and threatened to fold up. I was relieved that at least I had stayed there once. We stayed there and ate there. It was quite good back in the day. I remember walking up the grounds when we stayed and seeing an odd sight. I did not know back then what a natatorium was. It is a type of indoor swimming pool. They had it in this separate building. It is now gone. It is one of those things I wish I'd tried. Today at least I'd be able to say I'd visited the place.
Below is a view of the rear of the lodge where we entered. The front faces the Cheoah River.
Below: the mountain behind the parking area was glorious with color under those blue, blue skies. They have a shelter for parking motorcycles!
We entered and found ourselves in the main lobby. We saw a closed restaurant to our left. We saw a bar area and lounge to our right. Thankfully a sign indicated to go downstairs to the tavern. We exited the far side of the room and found ourselves on the upper deck overlooking the river. Wow! This place is lovely! The smell of food and the happy murmur of conversation and the flow of the river were pleasant. It was a very inviting atmosphere. They were jumping! Busy, busy, but despite that we were seated immediately. The staff couldn't have been any more helpful or professional. They have quite a menu, but we had a hankering for pizza.
Kenny ordered the meat lovers pizza and they even had Miller Lite beer. I am not a beer drinker so I had sweet tea with lemon. It was silky smooth and cold. The brightly colored umbrellas shielded us from just enough sun to make it easy to eat outdoors.
Below: Kenny is thinking. He is so squinty eyed in this photo Steve thought he was sleeping. lol
It seemed like our food arrived quickly. We enjoyed the hand made pizza. It was wonderfully satisfying. We got just the right amount to finish nearly all of it. The restaurant had a growing crowd so we did not linger. We got our tab paid and headed back upstairs. We took a quick stroll through their store before leaving. I hope to stay here sometime. It is magical.
Cheoah River Suspension Bridge
We left Tapoco after lunch proceeding to our next stop along our day's outing. The suspension bridge over the Cheoah River was a few miles up Hwy 129. We found it easily pulling over just before the hydroelectric pipe for Santeetlah crosses the road. The pull off is just barely big enough to be considered off the road. We walked to the bridge and started across it. It is one of those fun, bouncy bridges. We aren't scared of them so the bouncing is fun. It might be less tempting to jump on the bridge if the river was running swiftly. The walk across was fun and of course Kenny tried to answer all my questions about the workings of the hydroelectric project before us. Neither of us had ever realized that pipe comes down off the slope to the right and once across the road goes UP the mountain again. It is hard to imagine that water rushing down and then back up again. The Cheoah River flowed by peacefully beneath our feet. The trees rustled in the breeze showing off their colors to their best advantage in the sun. I turned to look at the scene on the walk back across the river. It was astonishing. So beautiful. We could not have picked a more perfect day to do this trip!
Below is a photo of our starting to cross the bridge.
Below is a photo of turning around to go back.
Below is a video of the Cheoah Suspension Bridge in the Fall foliage. It shows off the adventure far better than photos ever could.
Having had our bridge experience we ambled onward to the next thing.
Cheoah River Blue Hole
Kenny suggested we hit the Cheoah River Blue Hole next. I remembered seeing a pretty water hole with some low cascades on a previous trip. It wasn't enough to really tantalize me until I saw some other folks videos and photos of it. Oh yes! It was worth a look. Since we were there last they have developed it as a handicapped accessible fishing spot and river viewing spot. It has an observation platform with a design so you can fish from a wheel chair.
I am including the video that really made my mind up to return to see this. It is by Roger and Beth Darnell and was posted on Facebook. They did a bang up job of showing it off in all its glory. Drone footage so it is a far more sophisticated video than I am capable of. It really is beautifully done.
Below: The cascades at the rim of blue hole.
Above and below: a side long glance at the low cascades of Blue Hole through the colorful trees.
Below is my video of Cheoah Blue Hole. It doesn't look nearly so clear or blue in my photos or video, but then it didn't look very blue in person this particular day. It was well worth the stop.
Santeetlah Dam Overlook
Next we doubled back to see the Santeetlah Dam Overlook. Kenny had in mind we had to go that way to see the dam. See it we did! But it was from up high. We arrived at the overlook right at the rim of the dam. We'd have to try again. We took in the view from up here. It was lovely.
Lake Santeetlah glittered in the sunshine looking like blue diamonds. One lone pontoon boat glided across the surface silently. The trees frame the scene like something from a post card.
A picnic table is situated here by this fine view. It would be a good spot for lunch.
Below is a photo of the view from the overlook
Below is a video shot at the overlook
Santeetlah Dam
We tried for the second time to locate the route to the base of the dam. We doubled back to Joyce Kilmer Road and continued on out past the blue hole. Keeping an eye on the dam in the distance helped guide us somewhat. We turned into a road where Kenny proclaimed "this HAS to be it. Otherwise we'll be past the dam." We drove a road through gate after gate until we came to a final barred gate that was closed and locked. Trees obscured the view of anything in the distance. Kudzu vines enveloped everything around us. We got out and started walking from here knowing this had to be it. It couldn't be much further. We walked about quarter mile to the end where we could view the dam. It was far prettier this trip than the previous one. The Fall colors here again dressed the scenery up as nothing else could! A satin stream of white water cascaded down from one of the gates on the dam. A look at the aging concrete showed many cracks. Water gushed from a pipe on the dam wall on the right creating a narrow stream of white water. I took a look into the far right corner of the dam. Water flowed freely down from cracks here. I asked Kenny "Is it supposed to be doing this?" to which he simply replied "It was doing that last time." I don't think it is supposed to be leaking over there, but if he says it was leaking years ago I believe him. He notices such things. The dam here was begun in 1925 and completed in 1928. It was built by Tapoco. Tallasee Power Company. The next planned water release here is set for Saturday November 11, 2023. We'd really like to be present to witness it. We're sure going to aim for that. I become more of an engineering nerd every day I stay married to Kenny.
Below is a photo I took of the dam this visit.
Below is a photo of the right of the dam showing the cracking concrete and the pipe shooting out water. Kenny is inspecting the scene.
Above is a photo of the right of the dam viewing the top part. There are three gates per side. Kenny says for a water release they may pull all six at once. We shall see if he is correct.
To the far right high up on the dam is an arched doorway with a platform and a wooden door as an access into the structure. I had not paid attention to it before.
Down in this kudzu draped meadow in the shelter of lower elevations some late season wildflowers hung on. I saw American bittersweet, New York Ironweed, purple clover, purple asters, white asters, goldenrod and pink knots of Pennsylvania smartweed. It is worth mentioning that down here at the access point for the dam you can find a ramp to get to the Cheoah River. They have also placed a porta potty for convenience.
We looked to our left walking back out to see the ivy covered remains of the old cement batch plant. Kenny can tell all about such things because of his line of work. I was glad I brought along shorts to change into today. The weather had warmed up significantly. I was thankful for the privacy to shuck off and change quickly while down at the dam.
Below is a video of the dam today
Maple Springs Observation Deck
We drove back out to Joyce Kilmer Road. Kenny looked at me and asked "Where to next?" For once I really didn't have a solid plan. I was winging it. Kenny surprised me in saying " Didn't we drive way out to this platform years ago to see a pretty view?" I realized he was speaking of Maple Springs which is nearby. I told him yes. I also pointed out that we had never visited it before in Fall. I knew from looking at google maps the observation deck was newly repaired. It was a good distance out there, but we wanted to try it anyhow. It turned out to be a good choice. The entire drive out Joyce Kilmer Road along the shores of Lake Santeetlah were sublime. It made me want to pull over and pitch a tent at any one of the numerous campsites along the shores. The road wound through ribbons of colored forest. Reds, orange, bronze, rust, khaki brown, golden, yellow and deep green. Part of what makes Autumn's colors magical is the way the light filters down through all those shades. We were not disappointed in the slightest.
Below: this is how the walking path starts out to go to the viewing platform. There is somewhat of a view even from the beginning.
Below: the path is paved and slightly uphill, but should be disabled accessible for anyone.
Below: a view of the forest to my right on the walk out to the platform.
We arrived at the dead end parking area for Maple Springs to find half dozen vehicles there counting us. A few others had the same idea, but it was a pleasure to avoid the traffic jams and crowds of leaf peepers in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. We made the short walk out to the platform and the view was unbelievable. It made me gasp. Wide open expanse of the Snowbird Mountains. The Hangover is visible four miles distant to the northwest. We stood quite awhile visiting with others and enjoying the view. It is just unimaginable. The blue of the sky. The low ceiling of silver gray clouds looming. The foliage near us alight with earth tones.
It is a view hard to beat. We met a nice man named Danny Henry and upon talking with him he reminded me of some things. He is the second person to tell me to purchase and read Valley So Wild by Carson and Alberta Brewer. I believe it was a handful of blessing for me right from the Holy Spirit out of his mouth. I don't believe in coincidence. He had been told to read it by none other than my friend Paul Gamble. He reminded me of a good many things I need to do yet. One of which is obtain and read that book. The other is to explore the McGhee Carson place. By the time I arrived home I had ordered a copy of that book. It can be hard to find in print or costly to purchase if it is found. I saw one that went for $132. I managed to get one for $28.
Below is the view from the Maple Springs Observation Point
Below is a video shot at the observation point that shows the various angles to look from.
Cherohala Skyway
One of the good things that resulted from having met and spoken with Danny Henry was the decision to take the Cherohala Skyway back instead of the Tail of the Dragon. He lived in Greenback area and planned to take his sport bike back that way. We opted to copycat him.
Originally we planned to picnic at the Snowbird Picnic area near Lake Santeetlah. We knew we'd have many places along the Skyway to choose from. We could avoid the crotch rocket riders altogether this evening. We figured they'd be more plentiful late in the day.
We took Santeetlah Road up to its intersection with the Skyway and began our ride toward Tellico Plains and home. The colors on the eastern end of the ride were nice. We stopped at an overlook called Shute Cove where we had never stopped before. It has a picnic table and an observation platform to take in the view. We walked up to look at the scenery. Quite a few cars were there. People rolled in and out as we were there. I was videotaping the view when Kenny's grumpy old man persona kicked in. I heard him say something that I could not believe. A woman rolled in there with a group of folks all driving GTOs. She left hers idling. You can hear it on my video. No surprise with the Skyway that close to the overlook. Kenny did not appreciate it. He says "Okay. We all hear it. Now you can turn it off." It caught me off guard and I lost it. I burst out laughing at him. He has less and less filter every passing year. We motored onward leaving the GTO people behind.
Below is the fantastic view from Shute Cove Overlook
Brushy Ridge Picnic
We soon came to the upper elevations of the Skyway where Fall was over. It was dead, bare and desolate. Leafless trees. I have visited this area during the first two weeks of October and caught it at peak. It was depressing to see today, but don't despair. You soon begin to lose elevation and the pretty colors return. Either end of the Skyway are at lower elevations and consequently they come to peak about the last weekend in October. If you wish to see the whole Skyway's foliage display you will have to make at least two trips. Huckleberry Knob, Hooper Bald, and Beech Gap are all pretty during mid October. It is also a good time to see New England Asters in bloom.
We were trying to pick a good spot to pull over to have our cookout/picnic. I did not want it up high where it was cold and dead. We also were trying not to run out of options by being too picky and going too far. Finally Kenny pulled over at Brushy Ridge Overlook. It has a couple picnic tables, trash cans and a good view. We encountered quite a few leaf peepers, but knew most of them would not linger. Someone had painted a pure white stone and set it on a picnic table. They wrote on it "Lord, fill my cup". We decided that was to be our spot. We are coming up on thirty nine years of marriage Nov. 10th. Kenny may have to work so we figured we'd celebrate while we could. We wanted to make it count. Today surely accomplished that.
I enjoyed the view to the left of the mountains. To the opposite side the forest was alive with color. Maple leaves crazily speckled with red, green, yellow, orange. We claimed our spot and set up our grill and got busy cooking. I typically prep food way ahead of time so it will not take a long while to cook. Marinating a couple sirloins. I popped some red potatoes and mini ears of corn in the pressure cooker the night before. It helps cut the cooking time down to a fraction.
Before too long we had us a delicious meal of steak, corn on the cob and seasoned fried potatoes. Grapes. and the House wine of the South... Sweet tea! It turned out perfect.
Above is a look at the foliage directly across from Brushy Ridge
Above: the view from Brushy Ridge Overlook is one of my favorites
The clip art below illustrates my kind of luck.
I walked out of the throne room from my pee break to be confronted by the same biker who was apologizing for the intrusion. I could tell he was truly mortified. I just let him off the hook by laughing and saying "Oh it'll be alright. If ya ain't seen it before throw a rock at it." No use getting upset over stuff like that. It was bound to happen. I could feel it coming.
We set off home tired, but very happy. I was really glad to get home. I slept like a baby that night.
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Dana 🐝