Cumberland Gal: Santeetlah Dam Water Release, Tapoco Tavern, & Bear Creek Falls Hike

above: bright red maple leaf on Bear Creek Falls trail

Santeetlah Dam Water Release, Tapoco Tavern, & Bear Creek Falls Hike

Sat. Nov. 11, 2023

Dana & Kenny Koogler

Hike Distance for the day 1.5 miles

Photos are Here

We celebrated thirty-nine years of marriage on Friday November tenth. Many wedding anniversaries over the past seven years have included ruined plans or no celebration at all. We made up for it this year by celebrating all weekend long! We were at Tapoco a week or so back. We learned the last water release of the year would occur on Saturday November eleventh from Santeetlah Dam. We had never experienced it before so we planned to attend. We hoped we'd be able to see some kayakers on the Cheoah River and the river gushing. We also hoped we'd be able to get down to the base of Santeetlah Dam safely to witness the water release up close and personal.

We got up Saturday and headed toward Tapoco. The day was drizzly, gray, & overcast which delighted us. We need the rain and will take whatever we can get. We hoped that the rain and our early start would help us make it across Tail of the Dragon without a lot of crotch rockets and bikers.

We got our wish. The previous day's traffic snarls and accidents were a memory. We had no trouble all day long. We did not see any motorcyclists until our return trip.

The only stop we made on our ride over was at the Calderwood Dam Overlook. I had seen some fellows photos of it and wanted to finally take it in myself. I wanted to see if it was possible to get a really good look at the dam? The view was beautiful. Autumn colors were still fresh and lovely over here. They've had way more rain so the leaves remain on the trees and very pretty. I enjoyed the view of the dam in the distance. I walked across and enjoyed the view to the north as well. Our drive across Foothills Parkway was gorgeous. It is still very pretty up there with lots of colors.

Above: the view to the north back towards Foothills Parkway

Above: View of Calderwood dam far in the distance with pretty yellow leaves and fog.

We decided to go to the dam first since if we could not approach the base we'd have to go to the overlook. We arrived to find the entrance ungated. There is an access to Cheoah River for boaters to enter right there so they leave it open. We pulled down there and saw a sign that said Outfitter Parking Only. We weren't parking where they were so we went ahead. We pulled over at the last gate thrilled to have found no impediments to our going to the base of the dam. We parked out of the way and walked down there. It was safe. Only three of six gates were pulled. It was an impressive sight!

The thunderous white water poured down the old concrete dam. I remembered what the concrete beneath that white water looked like a couple weeks ago. It wasn't lost on me that these dams are aging. I pray they hold up. So far so good.

The spray from the water was something else! We stood for about five minutes just taking in the power and the sight of this ninety-five year old dam pouring great streams of frothy white water.

Cheoah River was running well today! We enjoyed it. I looked up in the distance and saw an unmarked white suburban approaching. I got that "don't push your luck' feeling and told Kenny we needed to move on. We began our walk back to the truck briskly. As I got closer I could see the suburban was pulling up to let passengers out to do kayaking. I still decided we'd best move along.

Kenny lagged behind me. I was already in the truck by the time he got there. He got in the truck and sat down telling me what he'd seen. " Though you cannot see it because this gate is closed, there is a sign on the back of it saying "no trespassing'". Yikes! In our excitement to see the water release we never caught a glimpse of it until then. Not in two trips down here until we were leaving today.

We got by with it, but now that we know we will stay clear. We will just go to the overlook.

Above are several views of the Santeetlah Dam during the water release.

Below is a video of it that gives a far better understanding of how powerful it is.

Next we headed back toward Tapoco taking our time as we went. We stopped to watch different spots along the Cheoah River where the boaters were gathering. Water releases mean loads of8 kayakers and rafters. It is a festive, party like atmosphere. We made it back to Tapoco lodge around 11:45 a.m. and decided to go on in for an early lunch. We'd beat the crowd and be able to take a leisurely lunch without hurrying. We planned to hike to Bear Creek Falls while there. It would also offer us a great chance to watch the kayakers in comfort .

Tapoco Tavern

Back at Tapoco Tavern we pulled in and found parking easily. We went inside to a roaring fire in the lobby and store. It was beautiful and they are beginning to decorate for Christmas. We headed downstairs to the Tavern. I took a moment to observe the river from the upper deck. The Cheoah River was really gushing today. Every now and then a lone kayaker would come down the river on his run or a group of several. They were having a lot of fun. These folks make it look so easy.

I know better. It most certainly is not easy. We got to witness one or two swift water rescues today.

It was educational to say the least.

Above: fire pit and chairs at the lodge/tavern. Someone has leashed their hound dog nearby while they have lunch.

Above: The Cheoah River is a bit murky as expected running at these high water levels.

Above: Here is a photo of Tapoco Tavern's outdoor seating. I don't feel real comfortable taking photos and video in a restaurant setting. It seems awkward somehow. I forced myself to do it simply to give an idea what this place is like.

Above: Looking downstream from the upper deck of the patio toward the bridge over the Cheoah River. The Fall colors are still very pretty.

Above: Here is another vantage of the river from up high. The mountain in the distance is very bright with colors.

We were seated immediately though the place was busy. I don't think there is ever a time when it is NOT busy! I learned over the weekend that Mike & Renaee Lindsey, Jason & Heather Ledbetter, and Shannon & Courtney Icenhower have been to Tapoco to eat and stay in the last bit! Great minds think alike! Plus to be truthful we all have a bad base of FOMO in this family circle. We are competitive and a little jealous, but that's how we roll. We have a good time and love one another.

We enjoyed seeing the river flowing past, the kayakers coming down now and then. They were fun to watch. We also enjoyed the pretty leaves on the trees and the general cozy atmosphere of the place. The service here is amazing as is the food. We had a nice lunch that was not heavy. I had a hot bowl of chicken noodle soup and a fresh salad and some hot coffee. Kenny had a beer and some loaded fries. I never have room for dessert. I just need to go there one day for nothing but coffee and dessert and to watch the people and the river. The heaters they have placed outside make the temperature just right on the patio in any weather. We were blessed with cool fresh air to breathe, but warm shoulders.

I noticed they had posted the 2024 water release dates. If it works out the way we want it to I'd like to go over and stay the weekend in the lodge and see that. There is a lot of good hiking and exploring still left to do over there. Once we finished lunch we gathered up our stuff and headed out to hike to Bear Creek Falls. I had no idea how long a hike it was, but we decided to go for it anyhow.

Below is a video of Tapoco Tavern that gives an idea what it was like.

Bear Creek Falls

We walked upstream along the Cheoah River on the lawn of Tapoco. They have a sign marking the Bear Creek Falls trailhead. It follows the river upstream to where Bear Creek flows down and empties into the river. When we began our hike it was just us and a group of three young ladies. I figured they'd want to go ahead of us seeing as how they were a lot younger, but they hung back. We enjoyed the hike though in places it is very rocky, narrow, and sloped. It is exciting though! The river gushing by with kayakers was riveting. It was hard to look away for fear of missing something. The Fall colors along this hike were glorious still. I felt so grateful to be still enjoying the colors and leaf peeping. The drought has not impacted this area and consequently the trees are happier. They are hanging on to their leaves longer. There were numerous spots along the trail that we saw coppery beech leaves, yellow birch leaves, and orange sour wood and maple leaves. I like all of it.

Below: the start of the trail for Bear Creek Falls.

Below: I loved the colors of these golden leaves

Below: a set of stone steps goes down to the river and permits a close up look . The three girls who hiked out with us are down there.

Below: Kenny ahead of me in a scene decorated with gold, bronze, orange and deep green leaves.

Below: Same scene minus Kenny. You can see some of the rocks also.

Below: bright red/orange leaves against the river.

Below: Though this trail is well kept it still has some downed trees across it. It isn't any real impediment to progress though.

Below: a set of stone steps. We encountered these a couple times along our hike.

Below: a partial view of a kayaker passing by

Below: Just a pretty scene along the hike today.

Above: another kayaker in a bright blue kayak.

Above: We got a neat little surprise. There is a supposed Moon Shine Still site along this hike. One of the young ladies had outpaced her friends. She was resting and waiting on them to catch up. She graciously agreed to allow me to take her photo. She looked very sweet sitting there.

Below: The trail takes a sharp bend around this rock on a narrow, rocky ledge.

The one thing neither of us liked about this hike on the way out was the spot where it was mere inches wide. It was sloped toward the river, narrow, and over a spot where a fall might not kill you, but you'd get injured. It would ruin your day. I took my time on this as my left knee has been giving me a hard time. It has been stiff and arthritic. We just left our trekking poles in the truck so we regretted not having them along. It would have helped a bunch. Kenny remarked to me about that time " If this continues to be this way or gets any worse I am done!" His left foot and ankle are weak from foot drop. A herniated disc several years earlier left him with almost no nerve signal to his left foot. It gives out on him, but he manages. Thankfully the trail conditions eased up and it widened and became more or less level again. He tuned up his cell phone maps to see how we were progressing. We were 3/4 of the way to the falls. We were encouraged and pushed onward. A few more ups and downs and we could see Bear Creek flowing out to meet the Cheoah River.

It is necessary to duck over and under some rhododendron limbs to make your way to the falls.

It was not bad at all. The falls was running nicely and worth the hike for certain. Above the falls a sourwood tree glowed a bright neon orange.

Above: first glimpse of the base of the falls

Above: Duck down here to get closer to the main falls

Above: Close enough to see the lower parts

Above: Looking toward the Cheoah River and the road

Above: stream just above the lower drop. Littered with fall leaves of rust.

Above: neon orange sourwood tree practically glows with color. It is fanned out over the main falls.

Above: I climbed back over to the trail to see the falls in its entirety. I had to get a shot here of the bright red maple leaves before it.

Above: Bear Creek Falls with the orange tree over it. So beautiful! Kenny and I picked our way careful over logs and tree roots to an unobstructed view of the main falls. It was worth it.

The young ladies hiking at the same time as us arrived just after we did. I think they took their time and checked everything out along their way. Several other groups of adults arrived as we were there. It was not so bad that everyone couldn't get a chance to see the falls without people.

We had made it! I finally got to see this long awaited waterfall. How many times I'd drive past wanting to hike to it! I finally got my wish. We enjoyed this tremendously. Below is a video of the falls and the hike. It shows pretty well what it is like. It is a moderate hike.

Our return hike was not something I was looking forward to. I dreaded having to tackle that part sloped toward the river. Kenny reminded me it might be easier going back. It was. Each of us had our weaker, troublesome body part on the left to the inside now! It was not quite as tough to manage. I think facing something coming back is also a little easier knowing how long something goes on. We knew past this stretch the trail improved and got easier, and we'd have the worst over. We enjoyed the hike back. We got to see a kayaker stranded sitting on a rock in the middle of the river get rescued. They used swift water rescue techniques to get him safely back across to the bank. We were fortunate to have a man on the return hike who had ten years of swift water rescue experience. He graciously explained the process to us including WHY they did what they did. It was fascinating to us. I have utmost respect for these kayakers and their grit, their skill and their willingness to help one another.

One of the things we spotted on the hike out was a bush on the left in full bloom! It was pink camellias. They are a cold weather flower. Very southern. I snapped a photo of them.

Above: camellia blossom

One final thing we saw was a kayaker running to his vehicle to get a throw bag which is part of their swift water rescue gear. We did not get to see how they used it this time. We were ready to head home. I hated to go, but we had plans the next day to have a family dinner with Crystal and Adam and those grandchildren. My cupboards were badly in need of resupply so I forced myself to get to the store and stock up. Kenny and I going together is usually a little easier to face it. He helped me get the shopping done and all the supplies put away. I was glad to be finished with that.

On the drive home we enjoyed Foothills Parkway once more. I stopped at the best overlook to snap a photo and a short video of the Autumn colors. The views were lovely today! All in all this was a perfect day. No problems. No traffic. We were due for a win!