above: Dutchman's britches near Little Sink Falls
Big Bottom WMA from Mooneyham Side --Rick's First Time Here
Sunday March 23, 2025 with Rick and
Saturday March 29, 2025 with just Dana & Kenny
Kenny & Dana Koogler
Rick Timm
Photos are HERE
(This trip report is the combination of two trips a week apart.)
Big Bottom WMA doesn't get a lot of riders. I think it is because it is closed part of the year for hunting. I think the bigger reason is that it gets little to no maintenance. It is a pretty area and if you like adventure, and don't mind rough trails and cutting out trees you may enjoy it. We only met Rick the day after Christmas, but he is one of those rare persons you feel like you've known forever. He's already become friends with Sharon. He is a very cool guy. Watching him and Kenny together is great. They are like peas and carrots.
We had planned to meet Rick in Spencer and have him follow us to the Mooneyham trailhead we needed for the day. Our plan for the day was riding and then going to the Lodge at Fall Creek Falls for dinner. It sounded like it was going to be the perfect day. We got unloaded and set off on the side by sides. It had been so long since I was here I found I did not remember parts of the trail. It seemed like it took longer than usual to get where we were going. We opted to head down into the sink holes via Graveyard Ridge trail. We didn't make it to Sally Gap yet when we began running into downed trees. It necessitated getting out chainsaws and clearing trail.
The trail conditions were very rough and eroded thanks to flooding. We were on the Struggle Bus there for a bit, but finally made it down to the main trail along the Caney Fork River.
Below: starting the ride on the plateau level where the trail goes through sage fields and pine plantation.
We headed west toward Big Sink. The rationale behind taking this route today was that while our parking spot was far closer to the trail climbing up out the back of Big Sink we weren't sure we could make it down that thing. Last trip required winching up over some parts. Kenny felt sure it would be more eroded, rocky, and probably have downed trees. We were going to deal with fallen trees on any given route, but it would be very hard to manage on a super steep slope.
We picked the middle route. Graveyard Ridge. We had one brief rabbit chase while Kenny went through "Wonder where this trail goes?" I think those trails go along the rim of the gulf.
Running Lifetime Maps today made him a little crazy. Amazingly the maps showed numerous caves and other features. Some we knew about. Some we didn't. We pushed onward and found clearer travel and before long we were on the correct trail. It rides along the rim of Big Sink bringing you out at Little Sink Falls.
Below: The trail has dropped down lower and the trees are hardwoods now and they have yet to leaf out. We saw a few red maples in bud and some redbud trees, but that was it.
Below: Little Sink Falls
We began seeing early Spring wildflowers once we got to this spot. The slopes around the falls were loaded with little yellow trout lilies, pink dots of Spring Beauties, hepaticas and Dutchman's Britches.
I was in Heaven seeing the first flowers of the season. I got out and before I ever went to see the falls I wandered up the trail that heads up Little Sink Branch to check out the flowers. Little Sink Falls was flowing which was a plus. It is pretty any time of year, but all waterfalls need one thing... plenty of water! The streams were flowing though we've seen it far wetter in this area. Rick was enjoying us showing him around some of the spots we've talked about. We were all marveling at the geology of this sinkhole with its rock formations, waterfalls and streams.
Below: Rick holds up the boulder
Below: Little Sink Falls
Below: spring beauties
Below is a video of Little Sink Falls
Once we got done enjoying Little Sink Falls we loaded back up and continued further into Big Sink. It is shaped rather like a box canyon. The trail goes along the rim of the box on the east side of the sinkhole. At the back of the box is a stream Moore Creek that has some cascades on it. At the far southeast edge of the box at the very back corner is Big Sink Falls. Over to one side of that corner is a trail leading back up on the southeast side. It goes up to come out near Long Rock Road and the area we usually park.
We stopped by the Dodson House to eat lunch. We got out and explored the area around the old home site. Daffodils and paperwhites were in the ground, but this year did not bloom. A significant trash heap sits moldering away behind the house. The front of it had other yucky items like old chairs, pots, and one old mattress. We enjoyed sandwiches I prepared us earlier that morning. We also tried something fun and different. We all tried "Blushies" which are a hybrid strawberry crossed with pineapple. They look like an unripe strawberry in white or pale pink. They are delicious! Jared tried them and told us how good they were. We had to give it a go. Glad we did. They aren't much to look at, but they sure are tasty! Say what you want about GMO foods.... that was good!
Once I ate I went in the house and shot a video. I had only gone as far as the door and peered in on previous trips. Today I really went indoors. We actually saw people staying in the old house one Winter some time back. It was snowing and the scenery was beautiful. I admit it was strange and beautiful to see smoke coming out the chimney of that long forgotten home with the snow falling down.
Indoors was two sections with a door between them and a fireplace on both sides. One room was sleeping quarters. The other was the kitchen and pantry. Most old homes had lofts for storage and sleeping, but I couldn't tell if this was ever the case here. I found an old coffee cup from Syracuse china laying about on the ground. 
Above: Rich by the machines.
Above: me looking at the kitchen area
Below: the old cook stove.
Above: kitchen area with a modern day cooler and tarp.
Below is a video I took inside the Dodson House. It was a little creepy.
The ride further in took us next to the bottom of the sinkhole. We stopped to explore the area of the sinkhole that is actually where the GPS coordinates are indicated. We explored the cave and the cliffs. We were way too early for flowers which is a shame. I saw squirrel corn, dutchman's britches, ferns, and more on those rocks during peak bloom season on another trip.
Below: the area that is technically "Big Sink" at its core
One thing that surprised me was how far it was back into Big Sink. It had been so long between trips I forgot. One really cool thing was finding new sections of trail today. We found some great work around trails to avoid rough parts of the main trail. It doesn't matter how many times we visit we still find new stuff.
The next thing we came to on the main trail was a hill climb where the trail and the stream are one. Today it wasn't flowing with water, but was still a mess. We made it up that thing. We then moved on to a straight stretch trending downhill with another tree or two across it. Chainsaw time again.
Once that was done we started passing piles of rocks and a couple old chimneys. We saw a big piece of metal equipment from days gone by. We neared the back of the sinkhole only to find a massive downed tree across the trail. It was up high in the air, but across the trail. It is one where you will probably work yourself to death to cut the tree. Your chainsaw will likely get pinched in the effort.
We left the machines where they were and walked the rest of the way. Moore Branch was running very well today cascading down the mountain from the plateau. We visited Big Sink Falls and found more downed trees across in front of it. It was still pretty, but harder to get a clear view of with downed trees.
Below: yellow violet of some type.
Above: Big Sink Falls
above: Kenny talking with his hands. White Rick and I enjoyed the falls Kenny walked up the trail that leads back to Long Rock Road. He found it in rough shape. We did not attempt it, but we also had to head back the other way. We had things we wanted to see that weren't on this route.
above: Kenny talking with his hands. White Rick and I enjoyed the falls Kenny walked up the trail that leads back to Long Rock Road. He found it in rough shape. We did not attempt it, but we also had to head back the other way. We had things we wanted to see that weren't on this route.
Below is a video of Big Sink Falls today.
We walked back to the machines and reversed course to head to Mill Hole. It was fun taking Rick to see these beautiful spots for the first time. It was also novel for us since it was so long between trips.
We managed to find a work around to avoid the spot where the trail and the stream become one.
We always thought that dead ended, but it was a good trail after all. The trail heading to Mill Hole was badly eroded. One of the worst of the day in fact. We made it there, but it was rough in the extreme.
We parked and walked down into Mill Hole. We could hear the roar of the waterfalls before we ever saw them. They gush out of the bank and flow down forming a short stream that goes back into the ground at the opposite side of the sinkhole. The water is exceptionally clear. The towering bluffs on the sides of the sinkhole are dominating and impressive. We stood down in there experiencing the falls beauty. Nothing really blooming down in here today. I was hit with a wave of sorrow that was from outside me. Not my emotion. It was other. It took me awhile, but I found it. I also realized shortly after that I sense people's emotions even when they are subconscious. I didn't know that was possible until now. I am learning that is another thing to keep to myself. Don't share knowledge that comes to me unbidden or emotions either. Below are some photos of the Mill Hole.
above: zoomed in on an isolation shot of the left falls and mossy boulders.
Below is a video of the waterfalls in Mill Hole
We trudged back up out of Mill Hole on the old road bed. It is called Mill Hole because it is a sinkhole and there used to be a grist mill in it. The road led down to the mill. I'd love to have seen the set up here back in the day. It wasn't wasted on me how much better I was getting around with the new knees! It is great to be more mobile and be largely pain free. I will get an occasional zap of electricity where the nerves are healing, but no big deal.
Next we headed toward the Caney Fork. Kenny wanted to see the water levels today as did Rick. The trail we needed was in this area. I didn't care much about whether the river could be crossed today, but the men did. Kenny is a hard charger and it was a matter of principle. He was going to try it. I didn't give him the vote of no confidence, but I did opt to get out of the machine. Rick seemed amused that I bailed out. He stood there with me to spectate while Kenny tried it. The Caney Fork was running real healthy today, but I gauged it was more manageable than I've seen in the past. If you can see rocks 90% of the way across it is probably doable.
Below is a photo of the Caney Fork above the crossing. The Caney Fork is one of those capricious Cumberland Plateau rivers. It dries up to holes of water in dry times, but floods to the point of destruction at others. Thus it has trees growing in its bed. It is not to be trifled with. We were warned by Warden Douglas many years ago that if we were going to ride in here we needed to acquaint ourselves with points of egress on either side of the river. Sage advice.
Below is a video of Kenny trying to ford the river.
Once Kenny proved he could cross the river and was safely back on the same side as us we loaded up and headed onward. We had to retrace some steps to reach the new trail. It was very cool. The scenery was dramatic and beautiful. Lots of fords of smaller sections of the Caney Fork. It was also open woods. We passed rapids on the river. We passed a spot where bails of stone were lying about on either side of the trail. It appears someone may have considering mining rock here to sell or use.
We found the lower end of the trail that runs from the Caney Fork all the way back to Long Rock Road. The end closest to the river is very rutted and rough. We made it up, but stopped at one point for reasons I am not clear on. While we were stopped the men noticed Rick's machine had a left front tire that was sitting laid out to the side. Not a good sign. They fooled with it and Kenny identified that the Kawasaki had a blown wheel bearing. They set about affecting a temporary repair so we could make it out of the sinkhole without tearing up his machine. We could all pile in our machine and get out no problem, but that didn't solve the problem of how to get Rick's machine out. I got out the other half of my lunch sandwich and walked around and finished that while they worked.
Below is a video of the repairs in order to be able to make it out.
I am no mechanic, but they did rig up something that made it possible to drive the machine out.
It was decided that once we got to the top we'd park Rick's machine and he'd ride to the trucks with us.
He could then drive down to it with his truck, load it up and avoid any further harm to the machine.
We were all doing a piece of praying as we attempted to climb out of that hole. It was a great trail with dramatic scenery and quite beautiful. It was exciting since it was all new to us. I thought that this trail came out of Little Sink Branch up to plateau level and met Long Rock Road. I thought wrong!
Rick was a champ. He made it up to the plateau level and we were all thrilled to be on easier terrain.
He went to load up his machine. We gave him a few minutes then went his way to check on him.
He was fine. We did take a moment to check out an overlook at the end of Long Rock Road. It was listed on Lifetime maps. It was a pretty spot with a very moody view of the terrain below.
above: the first time experiencing the Long Rock Overlook. Gloom gathering over the plateau.
Below is a video of the view from the overlook. This was shot on March 23, 2025 the same day as the photo.
We were all relieved to be safe and loaded up. I had wet wipes with me so I scrubbed some of the mud off my boots and pants. I brushed my hair and washed my face and hands. We got cleaned up a little bit very quickly. We got underway to try to make it to dinner at the lodge restaurant which was only around 20 minutes from us. We did make it to Fall Creek Falls lodge just in time. They didn't close for another hour and a half. We needn't have worried. The lodge was cozy and warm and all around pleasant place to dine. This was our first time experiencing it since they renovated it a couple years ago. They outdid themselves. We had a fantastic meal together. We were all hungry and it had gotten a little cold. The rain was rolling into the area. We were happy to be dry and indoors and warm. A fire blazed in the lobby of the lodge. Rick was sneaky and wonderful. He must have taken the waitress aside because she brought the checks to him. I don't know how he pulled that off, but it was a sweet gesture of friendship. I told him "Nothing bonds friends together like adversity! We had a little of that today!" We were all growing tired, but were happy. We said our good byes hastily in the rain in the parking lot. It was the perfect end to an exciting day.
PHotos here of lodge
One Week Later--The Next Episode-- Just Dana & Kenny
We returned one week later just the two of us to explore some minutiae. We revisited Long Rock Trail. We had passed what looked like a giant ant hill on the way out on the first trip.
Today we wanted to find out what that really was? We turned aside on a trail to the right.
We found additional home sites. One on the way down from Flowing Well Road on the left.
The other was back in the side hollow from that new trail. We found a spring fed creek and a chimney. A few wildflowers were out, but nothing great. We followed it until it came around to the giant anthill! Turns out that was a massive pile of sawdust from a former sawmill site!
Below: the first look at the 'giant anthill"
Below: close up view of the ant hill which is a saw dust heap! I am standing right in it.
Below: a spring fed creek in the new area we discovered
Below: Kenny walking out among rock piles. These are signs of human occupation
below: newly discovered chimney ruins in the new area
We had answers to that question. We made it up to Long Rock Road and overlook once more.
The ride out is past house sized boulders and bluffs. Someone had a turkey hunting blind set up toward the top of the trail. The overlook today was brighter and prettier. Redbuds were out. Red maples and bronze hues of budding trees in early Spring were the order of the day.
There is a Long Rock indeed lying just below the overlook.
Below : Long Rock Overlook in Spring
Below: The trail heading up to the overlook
We headed back to the Caney Fork and the truck. We started encountering other riders once we made it back to the river. Quite a few folks out today. Our revisit wasn't the most exciting, but we had fun.
We headed in to Crossville and ended up having dinner at McAllister's which has newly opened in town! It was very good. We called it a day and headed home satisfied.
Below: a view of part of the lodge restaurant
Below: Kenny and Rick are in that booth on the bottom right
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