Virgin Falls Hike With Sharon

Above: Indian pink root was just beginning to bloom 

Virgin Falls  Hike With Sharon

Sunday May 20, 2025

Dana Koogler and Sharon McGee

8.6 Miles Round Trip 

Pictures are HERE 

   Kenny got a spur of the moment call to go work down at Myrtle Beach.  It was a four day trip and about half of that would be spent on travel alone.  I opted not to go along and instead called up my friend Sharon. We'd go hiking.  We talked it over and Virgin Falls was mentioned.  We'd do it! She had never been.  It would be pretty since we've had abundant rain.  It had been a long while since I did this hike.    We got up Saturday at a leisurely pace and it was 11:30 a.m. when we started our hike.   We had Otey the dog along with us.   It was our first hike there since it became officially Scotts Gulf State Park. 

       

     I figured finding parking on a busy Saturday would be a problem.  It was busy for sure, but we were able to find parking easily.   Improvements have been made to the area in the form of porta potties at the parking area now.   They also have a hut for rangers and volunteers. They give out info and really good free maps!   They have added improvements such as board walks over parts of the trail which stay muddy.   They added more trails and signage.  Info kiosks were in several new spots.   Additionally it is possible now to hike to Virgin Falls from down at Big Bottom WMA.

above: the Cable Crossing and the cascades there. 

           The trail starts off level and gradually trends downhill or gentle ups and downs for the first part.

It winds  through a forest floor lined with fern fronds this time of year.  It was deep green and lush today.  The weather was perfect at 70 degrees.   We had sunshine above and blue skies, but we spent most of the hike in shade.  We passed streams that had white sand bottoms and sparkling clear water.  Many deep, tranquil pools and small cascades were along our way.

Below is a better view of Cable Crossing where you can see the actual cable.  

Below is a video of the Cable Crossing with its cascades

   We encountered quite a few other hikers, but everyone was polite, friendly and in a good mood.

The hike today was also under rhododendron tunnels and mountain laurel decorated many spots in the forest like a party.  It was the prettiest I've ever seen this hike.  We had waterfalls gushing out of spots I'd never seen them before. I've lost count of how many times I've made this hike, but this was my first time  doing it in the month of May.  I had long told myself I needed to do this as I wanted to check a certain spot for yellow lady slippers. I will tell you now I checked today and did not find a one.     We enjoyed aquamarine pools of water and powerful cascades.  It was amazing. It also delighted me that Sharon was loving it!  Otey the dog was all about it.  He was doing great.

          Below is an example of the marvelous mountain laurel we saw. 

Below: a glimpse of the woods and trail in the filtered sunlight. 

  We came at last to the Cable Crossing just before the first pair of campsites.  It was the prettiest I've ever seen it.  The cascades here were a sight to behold.   The crossing is always fun and wasn't bad.  The cable really does help.    We made it over with no problems.   We wound under and past rock ledges dripping with water.   I realized I was doing a hike that was over twice what I'd been accustomed to over the past year or more.   I told Sharon about Martha's Pretty Point and we decided to skip that for today.  We later decided wisely that we'd forego the side trip to Sheep Cave.  I was aware that 8.6 miles was going to be tough for me. Adding the extra 1.4 miles to round out the figure to 10 miles wasn't going to help matters.   

    We arrived at Big Branch Falls and it was stunning!  We visited with another couple or two there.   All nice people.  Some making this hike for their first time ever.  

above: Big Branch Falls 

above:  the mountain laurel at the first falls

Above: Big Branch Falls from further back that shows the scenery better. 
Above:  a rock shelter at Big Branch Falls. One thing I finally figured out today was that it would be possible to make a short cut for this hike by coming in off the road and cutting through the woods emerging at the creek above Big Branch Falls. It is the ONLY place this would be possible.  I'd not do it though because you miss pretty scenery on the hike if you do.  I had been told this many years ago by an area resident, and today was the first time I finally figured if it was true or not.  


Below is a video of Big Branch Falls

   We motored along and came to a point where we were getting close to Big Laurel Falls. I needed to pee, but this hike is so popular and rugged it was hard to figure out how to pull that off?

Where we were meant finding a shield to get behind to take a potty break wasn't easy. We just took turns hiding behind a rock and keeping watch for one another.   Be quick about it! 

 We pressed onward and arrived at the brink of Big Laurel Falls.  The climb down to it was worse than I recalled.  I hurt my left knee by hyper flexing it taking a BIG step down and getting jammed up between some rocks.  It took my breath away it hurt so bad.  I just got myself out of that position and stayed still until I could breathe again and let the pain subside.  It scared me a little and Sharon too.    We made it down to the flat area before Big Laurel Falls at last. 

It was glorious. The spray from the falls was pretty and had the entire area looking like a fog machine was operating.   We sat down here to rest and gather our strength and eat lunch.  Sharon made us some delicious BLT's and we enjoyed them.   

   

Below is a  video clip of Big Laurel Falls

    Once we finished eating we got up and hiked onward. I looked back at the ascent for the trail to climb up above Big Laurel Falls.  I dreaded this the rest of the hike. The trail up is unbelievably slick and rocky. They have draped a cable here to use which helps a little, but it is still awful.   I realized along this next stretch of trail that I lied to myself and Sharon about this hike.  I said there was something to see the entire way.  It is not true.   This stretch of trail between Big Laurel Falls and Virgin Falls isn't as scenic or exciting.   Onward we trudged to the next intersection.   We arrived at a split that indicated Sheep Cave to the right and onward from there to Virgin Falls at 0.80 Miles or take the left side and go with 0.30 miles to Virgin Falls.  We had no intention of fooling with Sheep Falls today so we went left.  It was a rocky trudge down and I was growing tired and hot.   We finally arrived at the bottom of the bluff with another 0.20 miles uphill to the falls.      We climbed up that rutted dirt ditch of a trail and finally stood by Virgin Falls.   We made it.   We were halfway done.  Sharon was impressed with the falls as was I.  They were beautiful and I saw them today with more water coming over them than I've ever seen before.   The spray from it made photography harder than ever.   For all the cars in the parking lot we saw only four other hikers here at the falls.  Two were leaving as we arrived.  Two men arrived right after us, but did not linger. They took a quick look at the falls and started their return hike.

       Below is a photo of Virgin Falls in big water

Below: a look into the pit where all that water disappears.  I showed this to my Daddy over Memorial Day weekend. He found it scary looking.  I guess it is. 

Below: zoomed in on the top of the falls 

 Below is a video of Virgin Falls in big water

 

   Sharon was tickled we made it here and she had finally seen the falls for herself. She did great today. 

I was the one on the Struggle Bus especially on the return hike.  I made it out of there with a record amount of bitching and moaning.  I was overwhelmed with anxiety realizing we were going to be cutting it close getting out of there by dark.  Part of that was our late start today. Part of that was my slow pace on the uphill.   I wasn't taking photos. I was just surviving this.  Sharon was wonderfully patient and encouraging to me.  She is the BEST friend.  She kept coming up with ideas that she knew would motivate me and make me feel better.   She offered to drive home.  She promised me she'd make me a martini when we got home. She also carried my backpack out of there the last couple miles when I know she hates it as it hurts her back.  They don't make 'em like this lady.   I don't deserve her, but I'm sure glad she is my friend.   

    I felt better once we made it back above Big Laurel Falls.  I set mini goals on the way.  We'd be okay once we made it past the Cable Crossing.  I knew if it got dark and we had that behind us we'd be alright.   We made it past that and then the final unbridged crossing.   The terrain softened and the climb let up.   That helped a bunch.  I had one final wave of despair when I saw a sign indicating that we STILL had 1/2 mile left to go to the parking lot.  Holy Sheep Shoes!  We finally made it out of there at was I ever happy to see the jeep.   We made it out just before dark.   I was miserable, but we were safe. The poor dog, Otey was worn slap out.  He probably hiked it twice over trying to herd us out of there safely.  My upset distressed him a lot.   Sorry Otey.   I later realized one of the things that made this hike so much more distressing to me was this: I was in a wash out period of my wellbutrin.   I have been on it for years.  I had been gradually weaning off it for a month or more.  I was getting down to the point where I really didn't have any left in me.  I did this with the doctor's permission and instruction. 

I figured because my life circumstances were so much different now and better I would be able to come off it for good.   It was not to be.  A few days later I hit the wall.  I was sinking fast so I had to resume taking it.   It was a hard thing to admit that the depression was NOT situational.  It is a biochemical imbalance in me that isn't going away.    No matter. I am better now and not going to try that foolish plan any longer.   I advise anyone taking mood stabilizers to thank your lucky stars and stay with them if you can.  

 

     We had to swing by Kroger in Crossville.  I had to put gas in the car and Sharon needed some things from the grocery.   I waited in the car with Otey and relaxed.  The drive home was tiring and we were all hungry and bone weary.   We finally got back to the house and I hit the shower immediately.

I had to get rid of the sweat to get past the chill I'd taken.   Once I was clean, dry, warm and in my pajamas I headed to the kitchen. Sharon warmed us up some dinner from last night's yummy left overs.    She fixed us both a lemon drop martini with dinner.  Wow! It was exactly what I needed.   I drank it with great enjoyment.  It was refreshing for sure.   One funny thing that happened was Otey wolfed down his supper and went upstairs to his bed.  Sharon got cleaned up and came back down for dinner and drinks.  He came back downstairs and fussed at her for NOT GOING TO BED! 

He won't go unless she goes.   His bed is in her room.   He lay down at our feet and pouted and dozed on the floor.   We didn't stay up long since we were as tired as he was.   Off to bed we went. 

   The next morning Sharon and Otey got up. She said she hoped she didn't wake me up with her knocking and beating and hollering?!  I said heck no I slept like I was dead.  I am a sound sleeper. 

She had the windows up in her room for the fresh night air.   Something big went to scratching and clawing at the screen trying to get in the house! She ran it off and closed the windows.   I am guessing it was a racoon or squirrel.   Otey refused to eat breakfast that morning and instead went back to sleep. Poor fellow. 

    I had breakfast and coffee and visited a little while. I left for home around 10:30 a.m CST.  

It was good to visit, but good to come home.  Kenny made it home that evening and I was awfully glad to see him. I had a hard couple days after that grappling with my mental and physical health.  Realizations of how things ARE not how I want them to be.   

     Noteworthy changes at Virgin Falls are that they appear to have changed the backcountry camping situation some.  It looks like they have more campsites, but now you cannot camp in front of Big Laurel Falls or Virgin Falls.   I learned some hard lessons.  

 

 Things I Learned Today:

• No more late starts on hikes for me if they are longer or difficult
• I need to stick with shorter, less strenuous hikes until I rebuild my stamina and flexibility. 
• If I don't act sensibly about this I will ruin hiking for myself  and grow to hate it. 
• I have finally arrived at a point where it is time to admit that my energy levels are not what they once were.  I can either do a leisure activity like hiking,  or do my chores and usual homemaker duties or take care of my grandkids.  I do not have the energy to expend to keep up with all of them anymore.  Doing one taxes me to the point  of exhaustion leaving nothing in reserve for the others.  

• The final thing I realized today is that I view this hike in the wrong way.  I always think I have to hike all of it in one day.  Then I am tired and don't enjoy it or take many photos and I am disappointed. I need to do this differently so it is enjoyable.  Today was a prime example of my all or nothing thinking.  I missed so many wonderful photo ops.  This needs to change.