Last Spring I went down toward Etowah to try to catch some flowers in bloom, but was too late. They were already spent for the year. I was stuck trying to figure what to do this past weekend. Kenny suggested we try to head south. He had an unexpected Friday off so we wanted to take advantage of it. The next day was forecast to be very rainy and cool. He had a couple ideas of stuff we could do. I was good with it so down the road we went.
I had a theory that the oconee bells I wanted to see might be in bloom. Despite being in Tennessee they were supposed to have been transplanted from elsewhere many years ago. I knew from friends photos that the oconee bells were in bloom in South Carolina. Maybe they'd be in bloom in East Tennessee now as well? I figured it couldn't hurt to check. Last year even though I missed the flowers in bloom it provided me with a chance to begin a systematic botanical inventory of Starr Mountain. It also proved to be a fruitful day in turning up a couple new waterfalls to us! The scenery was lovely and we enjoyed it so much.
I let Kenny sleep in and we got going at a leisurely pace. He surprised me with one of his plans. He asked me to check on my phone to see if The Farm House Restaurant was open in Etowah? I looked and they were. He suggested we go have some lunch before we went hiking. I was happy with that. I'd heard so much boasting from Jared and his friends about how good this place was. It is an area destination! Everyone loves The Farm House for meals. I did NOT know Kenny Koogler had already been without me. 👀
Below: Front porch of Farmhouse
Below: Welcome flag on the porch. My kind of place! Country!
Above: merchandise at the front counter and cash register in the restaurant
Below: More of their decoration up in front of the place.
Above: You can look straight back in this view to the additional large dining area.
Above: Cell phone shot of the dining area around us.
Below: Kenny across from me at our table. This restaurant is one we first became aware of when our son was at Miracle Lake getting recovered. Hearing him tell about going there after church with his buddies really blessed me. It was some of the first healthy, wholesome things he began participating in. Farmhouse Restaurant will forever have a special place in my heart because of this.
Kenny had barbecue with macaroni and cheese and green beans. I had a house salad with a baked potato. Their sweet tea is silky smooth. Perfection! We enjoyed it and went on the rest of our adventure with lots of energy. We were in and out of there in the time it takes to go to McDonald's, but with a wholesome meal that is NOT fast food! If you haven't tried this place you should! I almost hate to tell people about it. If I go the next time and find it covered up busy I will feel like I should have kept it secret, but it is far from a secret. It is well known and loved.
We headed to Mecca Pike to begin our adventure. On our way I did keep watch for wildflowers, but since we covered this ground in early April last year I didn't expect to see much. We didn't see any wildflowers at all along our route. The road is rougher than last year and more rutted out. At least it was not muddy. The first thing I saw with any color was periwinkle blooming near the site of the former White Cliffs Hotel. I also learned today that the hotel did not sit where I believed it did. It was opposite of that area. Down over the mountain side by about 200 feet is the spring where they got their water.
I did see a few trout lilies this season. The ones here are very tiny and seem to have more reddish brown coloration than most others I've seen. They are the Dimpled Trout lily variety.
Above: close up view of trout lily
Above: Trailing arbutus was along the roadsides and in the forest. It was such a pretty pink. It was one of the few flowers in bloom.
Below: The black water of a swamp atop the mountain. This flat, sandstone mountain is an oddity.
Above; Beautiful clear stream of water flowing. This creek flows year round. I've never seen it dry up.
Above: another cluster of trout lily blooms. They weren't more than a few inches high.
We kept looking as we went along. Nothing in bloom to speak of, but I did find my oconee bells I'd hoped for. They were done last year. This year they were just getting started good. These are globally rare and endemic to a few locations primarily in Western North Carolina and upstate South Carolina.
The three photos above are oconee bells blooming. (Shortia galacifolia ) They are so delicate and beautiful!
We proceeded toward the rest of our route. We knew there wouldn't be much blooming besides the few things I'd hoped to find. We'd go see some waterfalls on the rest of the journey to fill up the day.
Recent rains have our streams flowing wonderfully!
Below: a partial view from the road off of Starr Mountain. It was sunny one moment, gloomy the next. This pattern was repeated all day.
Below: Yellow Creek near a "camp site" that was very trashy. I'm not sure it is actually a legal campsite.
Below: a layered cascade near the campsite. It is about 12 feet high.
Above: a lovely hole of water and powerful cascade just below the first one. Yellow Creek was one pretty cascade after another today!
I am pretty sure this waterfall is on private property, but there is nothing that says I can view it from the road.
We eased down toward the Hiwassee River and Reliance. Kenny initially wanted to stop at Webb's store and get ice cream, but thought better of it. We motored onward. I checked the areas along the road where I'd seen flowers last Spring. Not much out yet. I will have to head back down there once things start blooming good if I get the chance. I did not bother to hit up a lot of areas in the core of Starr Mountain because there was nothing blooming April fifth of last year. I knew full well there wouldn't be anything out this early.
Below is a video of the various cascades we visited on Starr Mountain today.
Notes to Self for Future Trips
Get video of Hiwassee River and Railroad bridge
Get photos of the old store building along Mecca Pike
Located White Cliff Hotel site and spring down over the mountain
Take RZR and cross Sheehan Branch to look for additional waterfalls
Webb's Store for a popsicle and a t shirt
Drive Spring Creek Road to see cascades and wildflowers
Stop by Starr Mountain Outfitters for a Bigfoot shirt
I belong to a good Facebook group called What's Blooming in Tennessee. I asked of the group if anyone had ever systematically botanized the mountain? I knew that I had been there in Spring, Summer, and Fall and had a general idea what bloomed. True to the pattern no one ever really had so if I wanted it done I'd have to do it myself. Nothing wrong with that. When I say systematically I mean going in each season to each area to see what is blooming. I did not know if I'd be able to complete the task this year due to life's challenges, but I wouldn't let that keep me from making a start. It has been an odd Spring. The Little Winters of Tennessee have played havoc with the bloom times. Eighty degrees one day and forty the next and you can expect it!
I believed it should be a good time to catch early Spring blooming ephemerals so we set out on a Sunday morning. I had visited the mountain top in late March and found things blooming so I was hopeful. We were in for a surprise and not a good one. On the lower slopes of the mountain where there were usually rich and abundant wildflowers by now there was nothing.
A bit further up almost approaching the summit we finally began to see a bloom now and then.
The only things blooming at this elevation just below White Cliffs were clusters of birdfoot violet, Fire pinks, blue violet, and rue anemone. A little higher on the main road we began to see pink hairy phlox, yellow violet, and barren strawberry.
Below: blue violets
Above: Fire Pinks
Above: bird foot violets
Above:Hairy phlox
Above: barren strawberry begins to bloom
Below: Rue Anemone in bloom
Below: we saw an occasional yellow violet.
We decided to drive all the way to the end as far as we could on the main road. We would then turn round and work our way back. We saw very few others up here today. We met one man just riding around on a pretty day in his pickup. I saw a vehicle I suspect belongs to a fellow Facebooker and What's Blooming in Tennessee group member, Leslie Kincaid. I got out and looked round for her and listened out for her, but whoever that was must have gone hiking out the trail they parked near.
Below: Is this Leslie's car? Maybe.
We stopped by another couple locations on the summit and looked for pretty flowers I'd had luck finding in the past. Two more disappointments in that the Oconee Bells were already done blooming and not one blossom remained. The trout lilies were also done blooming and gone to seed. The only thing I saw near those spots that was a wildflower was yellowroot shrub.
Below: seed pod of spent trout lily
Below: Yellow root shrub in bloom
Below: A pretty spot along a stream on the summit
We tried to hike into the bog area to see what might bloom there this time of year. I should have listened to Kenny when he tried to tell me the way to get to it. I believed for some crazy reason that it was the next pull off instead of the one he indicated. He was right. I was wrong. Since we were already here at this one we decided we would hike into this area which parallels the bog very closely. Depending upon what we saw we'd either double back and hike into the bog or just leave it for another time if nothing was out. As fate would have it the only thing we saw was a few sweet white violets, running cedar, and some variety of trillium up and in tightly closed bud. They looked like they were going to be catesby's trillium when they bloomed out.
Above: tiny sweet white violet
Below: running cedar was thick
Above: What looks to be Catesby's trillium in tight bud
Below: This area is not the bog, but is similar to it and nearby
Below: Kenny hiking along in the sunshine.
Above: Nice stream flowing through this area of flat ground
Above: A nice trickling spring of water on the summit. We noticed springs flowing in numerous spots on the mountain today.
Below is a short video clip of a couple of the springs we saw today. They sound so nice.
Since we did not find much in bloom on this portion of the mountain we hiked back to the jeep. We climbed in and ate a sandwich and got something to drink. We then continued back the way we'd come. The plan was to start from the access nearest to Etowah off Old Mecca Pike. We would then drive the mountain through to Servilla church access. We'd head toward Reliance and have a popsicle at Webb's store and enjoy a view of the Hiwassee River. We'd do some wildflower looking along the river and then head back toward Hwy 411 and home.
We certainly weren't eaten up with luck in finding wildflowers in bloom up top today. The balance always shifts and something makes up for it in other ways. The trees were the stars of the show today. The white blooms of dogwood trees, sarvis berry blooms, redbuds pink puffy blooms, the tiny red or pink samara of maple trees in bud, and the best of all... the peridot green jewels of the poplar trees. The leaves so new and tiny and glittering green it would break your heart. The trees not being in full leaf out made for good views off the mountain in several places.
Below: A gorgeous view off the mountain top on a bluebird day
Above: Dogwood blooms
Below: The red and pink samara of maples
Below: red and pink maple samara and the bright green jewels of poplar trees in fresh leaf. Sarvis berry blooms and dogwoods.
Below: another vista off the mountain through the bronze leaf buds of the trees
We rolled along until we crossed Bullet Creek which was flowing full and healthy today. Photo below
We came to the intersection where if we turned left we'd head back toward Yellow Creek Falls and Bullett Creek Falls. We bore right instead as I believed this was the proper way to head to Servilla access. In all these years neither of us had driven this route in this direction. I have done it a number of times solo or with a friend coming in from the opposite way. How we managed to miss what we found today will remain a mystery.
Driving along looking at the roadsides for anything in bloom and Kenny announces "Hey! There's a waterfall over here!" and indeed there was! A very nice one with a beautiful pool of water. We stopped to check it out. I set a waypoint on it as I did not believe it was documented. I admit I was having my doubts about where we were and which way we were heading at this point. I kept thinking "Surely if I'd ever been this way before I'd have seen that!" We walked down to the base of this new (to us) falls with ease. It is surrounded by boulders and is about 12 feet high. The water is crystal clear and the bottom sandy white. Many fallen trees and logs are around the boulders forming a sort of dam to make the plunge pool fuller.
FYI: I did check the waypoint we placed once we arrived home. It was indeed an undocumented falls and I submitted it to Tennessee Landforms. Mr. Tom Dunigan placed it on the database for the state. Click the link above to see the page of info on where this is. It isn't hard to visit.
Below: one of my favorite looks at this pretty spot
Above: Photo taken from directly in front of the new waterfall
Below: One of my favorite scenes of the day... looking straight up at the surrounding trees at Upper Yellow Creek Falls and the blue skies and sunbeams!
Below is a good video shot with the Go Pro 10 of the new to us waterfall.
We enjoyed taking in many angles of the waterfall then climbed back up toward the road and the jeep. I did see sweet shrub in bloom here by the road as well as vernal iris in good numbers.
Above: vernal iris
Below: Sweet Shrub
We continued heading west along the forest road. I still wasn't seeing anything that reassured me we were on the right track. We started laughing about being lost. We were overdue for a Wandering in the Wilderness type adventure. Thankfully both of us enjoy exploring and the "Let's see where this goes? It has to come out somewhere!" mindset. Driving unfamiliar territory the route always seems way longer just because of the uncertainty. The road did begin to trend south/southwest and descend which was at least a little reassurance. The scenery was beautiful and the day perfection. We just enjoyed it to the fullest. We spotted purple phlox growing by the road. Since I wasn't seeing many wildflowers I figured I'd best get some photos. We pulled over and as we did we realized we had found yet another waterfall! It was also unknown to us. I set a waypoint on it to check later just in case. Turned out to be yet another undocumented falls! I called it Ellis Branch Falls since it has no known name and that is the stream it lies on. The included link will show you where it is located and give you an idea how to reach it. It was a nice twenty foot falls. There is no easy way to the base, but since it was cool enough to not yet be snakey I climbed down the bank very carefully. I can't help feeling that this falls may dry up to a trickle during times of little rain fall. That and the Summer leaf out would explain how I'd driven past it three previous times without ever slowing down or paying any mind to it. I once more doubted if we were going the correct way because of this new find.
Below: Ellis Branch Falls 20 ft.
Below: loads of sweet smelling purple phlox at Ellis Branch by the road
Below is a short video of Ellis Branch Falls
We enjoyed the falls, but did not linger too long since the pull off to visit the falls was narrow. The road doesn't have much shoulder here. We also wanted to keep going toward Reliance still unsure if that is what way we were actually heading. Next we came to a spot that we could see a beautiful stream below the road to the left. There was a pull off and a sign Sheehan Branch Road. It was clear folks pulled over there to see the stream. We decided to take a closer look. Upon closer inspection the stream was shallow enough here you should be able to ford it by driving most of the time. We did not chance it today, but should have! I suspect there are more waterfalls back there. The stream itself was lovely and covered with butterflies flitting and swooping. It was worth the stop just to see it.
Below is first a photo of Sheehan Branch. Next is a video of this lovely spot.
Thankfully for us it was less than another mile along this scenic country road until we emerged onto Hwy 315 the Tellico-Reliance Road near Servilla Baptist Church! I had been right all along. We had another good laugh since despite me being correct I went so long doubting myself and feeling confused. I tease Kenny when he says "I've never been here before" yet I know that he has.. he just doesn't remember it. I tell him "Good for you! It's a new experience erry single time!" Well today that was ME! I was indeed having a new experience despite this being at least four trips on this road! 😂
We turned right onto Hwy 315 toward Reliance. We had considered driving Spring Creek Road, but decided against it. It was at least five miles to Webb's Store yet. I wanted a popsicle and to check out the wildflowers along the river. I knew they would be good and I was still very wildflower hungry after a sparse find today up top of the mountain. I still felt good about having made a start at know what blooms on Starr Mountain season to season. I also felt thrilled at getting out and finding two new waterfalls!! I hoped to find Trillium flexipes in bloom today. I had found quite a few of them in a ditch with the tip from a friend Darwin White. It had been a long while and I wasn't sure if I could recall exactly where to locate them. We'd have to see.
We pulled into Webb's Texaco and went in to say hello and picked out a popsicle. We sat out front and ate them and chatted with a nice lady who was the store manager. It turned out to be an enjoyable and informative conversation that saved me a LOT of wasted time. I had wanted to visit whatever was left of the old town of Probst. I asked her if it was possible to get there and visit? She said no that it was private property. She also said that there really wasn't anything left to see of the former town.
I learned that it is pronounced "Probe" according to her. and that the landowners don't want you down in there. While I had her ear and her knowledge I asked about the other abandoned town Hambright.
She said there was nothing left of it either. It is private property. I inquired about the former Reliance school. She indicated it still stood over there in Hambright, but that it had partially burned. What was left salvageable was now owned by Mr. Webb and used as a place to keep inventory of the supplies for Webb's Store. That was good to know. Don't bother wasting my time. And I had always wondered how such a small store kept their wares stocked! I thanked her for the information and the visit and we headed on our way.
I stopped to enjoy a view of the river and the old fish weir visible from the store. It is ancient back to the times of the early Native Americans.
Below: Hiwassee River looking upstream toward the railroad bridge
Below: Hiwassee River and the riffles in the stream are the line of the old fish weir. It was a way of trapping fish to catch and harvest them.
We turned onto Hwy 30 and headed back toward Hwy 411. I had Kenny pull over in a couple spots for me to photograph wildflowers. I saw wild columbine, but the bleeding heart that is usually there had not emerged yet.
Below: wild columbine
Next we stopped at the picnic area by the river. I got out and began walking round to see what was in bloom. I saw yellow trillium, spring beauties, masses of purple phacelia, foam flowers, and lots of purple phlox. The picnic area has restrooms, ample parking, and tables with grills. It also has an access to the river. It was not crowded, but somewhat busy. I walked across the road looking for papaw blossoms. I looked up and saw in the distance white trilliums. I crossed the road to get a closer view. To my delight they were the pure white trillium flexipes! Then I took a closer look around and saw the entire slope covered in hundreds of them. Innumerable! I was thrilled! They were not only out, but loads of them in peak bloom. After a bit more looking I also saw blue cohosh in bloom and golden ragwort, and Canada violets.
Below: yellow trillium
Below: spring beauties
Below: purple phlox at the picnic area carpets the forest floor
Below: great swath of purple phacelia
Below: Canada violets
Below: clump of foam flowers
Above: blue cohosh in bloom
Below: emerging maiden hair fern
Above: close up view of an individual Trillium flexipes the common name is Bent Trillium
Below: a look at the mountainside covered in hundreds of Trillium flexipes
I was thrilled at the finds of the day and so was Kenny. We had an amazing time with lots of laughs and fun. We stopped at one last place to look for wildflowers and did not find much. Quinn Springs is a picnic area and it is real nice. I forget that it is also a primitive campground. We found the gate to it open today for the first time ever! We drove back in there and prowled a little bit. We saw little of interest in the wildflower department or otherwise. It reminded me of another campground in the Cherokee National Forest of Tennessee. Round Mountain Campground over on the back side of Max Patch. It sees so little use that the road and campsites sit coated in iridescent green moss. Quinn Springs Campground is not quite that bad, but a close second. I can't help wondering which came first? Is the gate being closed all the time preventing access and limiting use OR is so little use historically the reason they don't often bother to open the gate? It is being maintained though not to a real high standard.
We wrapped up our day and began the drive toward home. It was in all a successful outing and did us both a world of good. One thing for certain... when you don't get to go often you appreciate it when you do get out!
Looking at the back side of an oconee bell bloom
