Hang Over Hike --Knees to the Shoulders!

Rosebay Rhododendron is the flowering shrub of this hike!

Hike to The Hang Over--Knees to the Shoulders!

Monday July 7, 2014

Dana & Kenny Koogler

6 miles round trip

Part of the Valley So Wild Blog Series

Pictures are here: Hang Over hike pix

    Kenny was finally home from Baton Rouge, Louisiana.  I was glad to see him.

He was glad to be home.  We had lots of catching up to do before he had to leave to go back again.

He was tickled to be out of the Delta Country and back in the mountains.  It took no persuading

to get him to hike with me.  I had originally planned to make a second attempt at locating Burgan 

Creek Falls.  I wanted to explore that area some more. I still do and we shall in the not too distant future.   We discussed it and it was agreed that since the weather was going to be nice and clear

for good views we'd hike up to The Hangover in the Nantahala National Forest of North Carolina.

 You can reach this scenic overlook by many routes.  I opted for Hangover Lead South.

Short. Steep. To the point.  A real manly man's hike. Lots of uphill climbing.

The trail begins at Big Fat Gap.  We made the drive across the Tail of the Dragon this morning.

It was not bad being a weekday.   I had hiked out of this parking lot once before.  

All trails leaving it were wilderness trails.  I had called John Quillen one day to get some advice 

about the hike and his words were true.   One trail leads up and left heading out of this parking area.  Its easy to spot.   I knew it was going to be a rugged hike.  

 The start of the trail goes up..... 

              and ever up........

          We gathered our stuff in our packs and set off up the trail. Kenny usually prefers uphill climbing because he is long legged and it is easy for him.   My poor little heart and lungs and short legs struggle with it compared to him. I've done plenty of it though over the years.  One lady taught me long ago a tool I've used ever since.  She taught me the mountaineers rest step.

I learned it and use it all the time.   Its better to keep going even if it is very slowly rather than 

all this stopping and starting.   Knowing and using that simple technique and getting in a good head space has helped me learn to cope with and even enjoy uphill climbs.   The climb up Hangover Lead South seems relentless to start with, but it moderates.  You get flat spots or less strenuous grades a little later on the hike.   

         I had always wondered why I did not see photos of this hike?  I knew why now.
Who cares about taking photos when you're climbing a steep trail as this?  I will also say that while this trail is worth doing it is not ever going to rate up there as a favorite hike.   I find that pretty scenery along the way really helps kill the pain.  It is not bad, but it is not as attractive as some others.  It is more utilitarian for a good part of the way.   I was using Tim Homan's guidebook
and I really like his writing. He does a fine job of giving detailed directions.  It helped a lot having it.   Here is a link to it. Hiking Trails of Joyce Kilmer Slickrock Citico Creek Wilderness

     What made this hike good?  It was a first time experience. I had my spouse with me.
The rosebay rhododendron was in bloom. We saw beautiful old growth trees.  It was challenging.
The views at the top would  be worth it.  My curiosity about it would  at last be satisfied. 
We hiked along and Kenny realized he lost the end cap of a trekker.   We made a mental note to look for it from that point along the trail on the hike back.    We continued on and on until we came to Grassy Gap. It is a flatter area along the trail and it is indeed a grassy gap just as the name implies.   It is pretty.  The trail description indicated the forest changed abruptly at this point from hardwood forest with oaks and maples to hemlock, pine, birch, beech and silver-bell.   We found that to be the case and it was easy to spot the division as we gained altitude.  

 

Top: The trail winding along through Grassy Gap
Bottom: Deep woods with a little sun peering through near Grassy Gap.  

     We came to the place where the trail's character changed again and got rougher.  It is a wilderness trail so it is not going to be as groomed or maintained and that is ok with us.
It had climbs moderated by spots where it leveled off a bit.  The trail was out on the edge of the mountain in places and it was muddy and slick. Roots. Rocks. Downed trees.  Briars. 
We ran into a little of all of it.  Gnats were in play today, but not as bad as we had seen them 
on other Summer trips.  

        We had sat down and gotten a drink and rested by a massive rock formation along the trail.
We read the trail narrative to have a good idea of where we were milage wise based on what we were seeing.    We finally came to the "double switchbacks" he mentions.   A rudimentary path cut down and right along the edges of a rock outcrop.  Another more distinct path headed up and left.
We had to do some more checking the book and the map.  I don't know where on earth that down/right path went or even IF it was a real path.  We headed up and to the left.  It was clear this was correct.  While standing there at the intersection and ciphering out where we needed to go we both heard the voices of men.  
  
          We did not go too much further until we emerged onto a heath bald as he promised we would.
It was quite beautiful. It was like walking under a bridal archway decked with pink and white flowers of rose bay.  We had a clear, perfect day for our trip.  It was not too hot and we were catching an occasional breeze.  We could hear the voices of men again.  
I got really tickled when we began our climb down and out to the first overlook.  I could hear the men and realized this had to be the people we were unable to see moments before.  Hiking out this narrow gully of heath walled vegetation is something else!  Rosebay here is stunted as are other species due to the elevation.  We made it out to a nice rocky overlook. Getting out here was an experience like no other. Imagine yourself walking along a rocky, narrow trench hemmed in on both sides by thick rows of shrubs on each side.  Now add to that an uneven surface on the rocks where you are climbing up on some and down over others.  At one point I was standing high on a rock in the middle of this trench just high enough to see head and shoulders over the hedge row. The view that lay before me and about me was stunning. Grand mountains of blue and green and gray rolling out under a blue sky. Ahead of me down this trench is another man and all I see of him is his head and shoulders. We both caught the irony and weirdness of the moment and grinned! It is THIS moment and THIS view that will bring me back here again and made this hike worth doing!  Two other men were there with a friendly dog.    We talked to them a little.  They had hiked in from Bob's Bald.  We asked them about other overlooks in the area and they replied that far as they knew there weren't any.   I don't like to correct people or criticize them out on the trail especially.  I did not say a word, but perhaps this time I should have.  They had hiked in all that way and it seems they ended up missing the actual Hangover.  I may be wrong, but I don't see how
if they had been there when we asked about other overlooks ... they said no.  

   

 Here is the view from overlook #1.  We had lunch here and rested.  I got misty eyed when I beheld this view.  The feeling of gratitude over being well and no longer having double vision has not left me.  I thank God for His divine healing.  It is also not lost upon me how good it feels to be able to walk normally and have my sense of balance return.  I sat here soaking up the view.

Birds swooped and dived around us twittering and chirping.   I saw swifts. I saw a rufous sided towhee.  I saw a flash of bright yellow as a goldfinch winged its way past us.   Such a scene of beauty with a view in about 340 degrees.   I thought of William Bartram's words about these mountains and his experiences so long ago. Watching the shadows of clouds move across the face of the mountains.    We finished our lunch. I experimented with my new Vivitar camcorder. I've had it for three years and I'm just now fooling with it.  I will let you know how that comes out. It is cool. It is easy to use and takes photos or videos.   We took time to re group and figure out our next move.  We realized we certainly were not at the Hangover.  I was not going to miss it after hiking a tough 2.5 miles to get here.  It was only 0.5 miles further, but it was more up.  I did not care. I was determined to see it. We moved on to the goal.

              The trail here is rockier and in one spot birch tree knees and roots form a set of natural steps.   Up and up and more up.  We passed a very wet muddy spot.  We arrived at the next trail intersection which was actually flagged and signed.  The ridge line was mercifully flat so we caught a break.   We hiked out to Saddle Tree Gap and the campsite.   We passed the intersection with Deep Gap Trail. It is also signed, but the sign is broken and sitting on the ground. No kidding.

I hunted for the spring here at the indicated spot below the campsite. It was dry today. 

We were going to have to ration water on the rest of the hike as we did not bring enough for this hot day.     We met the only two other hikers we saw all day.  Kenny visited with them while I hunted for the spring.   I returned up the hill with a negative report on the water situation. 

       We finished our hike out to the Hangover proper.  I realized today that all my bellyaching in the past about the brier tunnel going out to Bob Stratton Bald is for nothing.  It is not unique to that area. It is just how this entire area is during Summer. I guess I always knew it, but since that was my primary focus I made it a bigger deal than it was.  Now I stood plowing through a tunnel of heath vegetation and briers. Praying for no snakes.  I raised a hiking pole high over my head and the tip did not clear the height of this stuff. I'd say its nine or ten feet high.   I was fine as frog hair.

Glad I did not lie and say I was not going "off trail" this Summer.  I was ON a trail, but oh what conditions of that trail.   The hike out to the Hangover was another narrow heath tunnel over rocks.   Just a little more UP and we were there!  It is a spectacular spot on Earth.  A 360 degree view of these mountains.  It was good to finally be here! Will I come back? Probably. It was worth it.  It was a challenge. I may pick a different way just for variety and perhaps better scenery. 

Views from the Hangover: Top-- toward Cheoah bottom out toward Haoe.

Worth the work to get here!

      We soaked up the view and wallered in it. It is a Grand Stand view to be sure!

   We began our weary hike back.  Dreading the limited water on a hot day. 

We were dreading the down hill on our knees.   On the hike back we found a second spring that WAS flowing and thankfully filtered wonderfully cold, clear water and had our fill.  We were both relieved at having two bottles a piece of fresh cold spring water for the hike out. We had plenty of drinks in the cooler in the jeep. We just did not plan well enough.   We trudged back down down down.  My right knee and Kenny's feet began hurting.    I will say that this is was only the second time we've had a hike be so intensely steep it hurt going up and down.  The first time was Elliots Knob hike to the summit in Virginia.  We turned around and walked backwards on the descent to take the strain off our knees. Today this trail was too harsh for that.  We just had to suck it up and

continue.  We rested some, but Kenny needed to get back at a reasonable time to call James Corum  his co-worker and Bud, the operations manager at work.  They had to coordinate a plan for the work week and his trip BACK to Baton Rouge.    

       We made it back to the jeep and we were so glad to see it.  It felt good to sit down.

My knees quit hurting. Kenny's feet recovered.  He told me he was proud of me for doing hard hikes and continuing to try to get back in shape and loose weight. He is supportive of me and I appreciate him tackling hard tasks with me.  He must like a challenge or he'd not have married me, right?   

      We headed back across the Tail of the Dragon toward home.   We had done it!

We hiked the Hangover and made it count!

          The rest of what I had planned for this area will have to wait.

Any repeat hikes here will include: bring more water. pick a different season or another trail for variety.  

Below is a video of the view from The Hangover

          

      

         

Panthertown Backpack Trip 2014--Valley So Wild Blog Series

Rhodo minus at Panthertown 

Panthertown Backpack Trip 2014

Dana Koogler

Catherine Howell

Jennifer Bennett

Friday June 25- Sat. June 26, 2014

Friday hike distance 4.2miles

 Sat. hike distance 11.2 miles

Pictures are here beginning with frame 55

Panthertown Pix 

      I had planned to meet up with my best friend Cathy and another friend, Jenny Bennett to go

backpacking.  We agreed on Panthertown North Carolina.   I headed over to Cathy's house 

Thursday evening to visit with her and meet another of her friends for dinner.  We had a good time 

of fellowship together and a nice meal.  We packed up that night for our trip. We planned to meet

Jenny at the Cold Mountain parking area. 

      We arrived and finally got together and set out.  We headed down the trail to Mac's Falls and Pothole Falls. We all wanted to see waterfalls this trip including some new ones.   A short hike later and we made it down to the first falls.  Mac's Falls is a low, scenic waterfall with a pretty plunge pool. The water in Panthertown is stained brown from tannins.   It is also flecked with mica

particles.   The rhododendron blooming was pink and white rosebay and a few blooms of Carolina rhodo.   Purples and pinks and deep greens of Summer.   My companions kidded me about how I am so bad to get in the creek.  I did not go swimming this trip since it was rainy, but I did get in the creek.   We were taking in Mac's Falls and then ambled down to see the nearby Pothole Falls just below it.    It is also a low, scenic waterfall hemmed tightly into the same stream.  It is carved out

by the water and very different from Mac's Falls.   Below this falls was a rocky shoals.

 

Top:  Jenny approaches Pothole Falls

Bottom Macs Falls

     

    We had planned to set up camp in a good location and hike out from there.

We did not want to lug that stuff all over Panthertown for the entire time. Cathy and I knew of a good campsite from last year.  It was along Greenland Creek and near waterfalls Jenny had never seen before.  We decided to take her to see those today.  We'd just camp there.   We made our way along a lower portion of trail along Greenland Creek as the rain cut loose.  We had some cover from the tree and shrub canopy, but  we were still getting rained on.   We donned our rain gear and continued.   We made it to the trail intersection and the trail confusion cleared up.

We were close to the camp site so we went a few steps further and arrived. 

     We set up our tents and made camp.  We ate a quick lunch and the rain let up a bit.

We would continue down the Greenland Creek Trail and go off trail all the way to see 

Greenland Creek Falls, Halfway Falls, and Carlton Falls.   I was dreading the climb up above

Greenland Creek Falls. I had done it before so I knew what was waiting for me.

Yet the things I found hiking with these two ladies in the rain was that with company... the discomfort is less.  Having done it before... somehow it seems not as bad this time. 

The rain continued, but we did not let it stop us. The stream was murky and brown having been churned up by the torrential rain.   The falls were not quite as scenic due to that, but they made up for it in volume!  It is always neat seeing another friends response to their first visit to 

a pretty place.  Jenny was digging Panthertown and everyone was getting on well. It struck me funny that here I was off trail in the wilderness in Summer and completely at ease. I was not one bit concerned about snakes.  I felt charmed.  Is this rational? No.  It is me though and I never claimed to be anything but crazy head to toe 24/7.  

Top: Greenland Creek Falls

Middle: Halfway Falls

Bottom: Carlton Falls all muddied by the hard rain.

      We took in all the falls up Greenland Creek and made the trek back to camp.

The rain finally quit.  We were wet and dirty.   We were tired and hungry.  We had a good

meal over the backpack stove.  Chicken and fried rice.  Jenny had brought homemade goodies!

Butterscotch brownies!  We enjoyed them and her tremendously.   I got cleaned up a bit and

after some sitting around the campfire time of chatting we turned in.   Cathy and I racked in the same tent.  We talked a little while, but soon were asleep.   I kept waking up through the night thinking it was raining. It wasn't. All I was hearing was the wind and the stream.  I rested ok, but I've slept better on backpack trips.   I am not sure what was wrong with me. I did not feel bad. 

My rest was just broken. I chalked it up to being excited.

       Next morning over coffee and oatmeal... we learned that Jenny was not feeling up to par.

She hurt her hip long ago and it had been bothering her.  She decided the wisest thing to do was to 

head out for home rather than aggravate it.  We hated to see her go, but understood.  We hiked

out with her to the parking area.  We saw her off with lots of hugs and promises she was not getting away that easy.  We'll have to do it again soon when she is feeling better.

Once we knew she was safely on her way we headed out for the days hike.

    I had not been to Schoolhouse Falls since my kids were ages 12 and 15!  The last time
I was there I was with them.   We hiked with Rich, Harry, Jan, KT, Cathy, Kenny, Dana, Jared

and Crystal.. and maybe more but that's all I recall.  We made it as far as just below Riding Ford Falls that trip. We were going to head for Devils Elbow, but it was late in the year. It was raining and very slick.  It was going to require wading the Tuck.  It was also going to require putting up

with swimming with snakes.  My kids weren't having it.  So we wrapped it up and headed back to Harry's that trip.   I still need to finish that trip!

        Today we approached Schoolhouse Falls from the opposite direction of the last hike.

We were confused.  We asked people about it and it turned out they were heading the same place 

so we all hung in there together.   We made it safely and I admit this hike is a tad longer, but it was easy and quite pretty.   Schoolhouse Falls was beautiful as always! Such a nice spot.  

      Schoolhouse Falls

Rhododendron arborescens blooming at Schoolhouse Falls 

      The rain began falling on us again before we even left Schoolhouse Falls.  We donned our rain gear.  We parted company with the other hikers and continued on our planned route to Tranquility Point.  It is a high overlook on Little Green Mountain. I had not been to any of these overlook type hikes in this wilderness so I was pleased.  We found it easy enough.   We enjoyed the views from the large rocky outcrops.  The rain had stopped again.  My camera was fogged while trying to take photos here.  It was bad and getting worse.  Having my camera malfunction for me is

a hardship.  It is not as bad as double vision, but it really upsets me. It is like a part of me on hikes.  I feel like one of my eyes have been put out.  I was trying to make the best of it and hoping

the camera would somehow be okay.   

       The views here were gorgeous.  The heath vegetation was pretty. We were surrounded by ripening blueberries which we ate.  We also saw fire cherries.   We tried them all.   We saw true rhodo minus.. the small cousin of catawba rhodo. Carolina rhodo is the middling sized cousin of both.   All are pretty.   We had passed a good number of people who camped at a spot near Tranquility Point.   I would not care for it as a camp site.  It requires a long trek back down to the stream to get water then haul it BACK UP the mountain to camp.  No thanks!  It was not wasted on me that Cathy told me on the hike up the mountain she had done this before.  I couldn't help wondering why she felt the need to study the map while I was taking pictures?  I knew what it most likely meant and just readied myself for it.  More trail confusion was on the way.  Ah the joys of hiking in Panthertown.   

      

Top: View from Tranquility Point

Bottom: Cathreen studying the map of Panthertown awfully hard.

 You can tell in the bottom photo how bad my camera was fogged at this point. I was distressed about that.  

      We left Tranquility Point and motored on.   The plan for the day was this: Parking lot at Cold Mountain Trail head .. Panthertown Trail to Schoolhouse Falls, up Little Green Mtn trail to Tranquility Point, down to Mac's Gap Trail and out to Granny Burrell Falls.  Red dot footpath near Granny Burrell Falls to the top of Big Green Mountain. Hike along the top of Big Green Mountain to enjoy the views off The Great Wall of Panthertown.     Merge onto Big Green Trail and back around to the campsite near Greenland Creek closing our loop hike for the day.  

   Go ahead and laugh now those who are familiar with Panthertown. Josh Simons, Todd Ransom, 

Stephen Wilder... I can hear you now.  Yeah. We were crazy and the person unfamiliar with Panthertown will see why later.   

     It was only a matter of steps away from Tranquility Point and minutes until we were experiencing trail confusion for the second time today.   We did what we sometimes do. We go back to where we knew we were on track and do it over... what did we miss?  Okay this trail heading down hill doesn't look right.  Let's try going on this one that turns right and goes into the woods by those tents.  Yeah. This must be it!   I prayed Lord! Please help us through this?

He is always faithful to answer.   It was not long til we did not like that option either. The trail was growing sketchier by the second.  Trail Dawgs that we are... we pushed on through the brush and 

emerged onto the open rock face that rims Little Green Mountain.  We could hear people. We headed in their direction. They could hear us and were heading in OUR direction. Both groups hoping we could help each other.  We did help each other, but we were both crazy.  Helping them showed me the depth of our insanity.  They showed us where we needed to get back on track.

We said we'd take them up the trail and show them where they needed to turn to continue.

I can barely type this from laughing at the thoughts of it.  The look on their faces when I took them back to the hole in the thicket we came out of and said to them "You go in here!" ~~~> 

The internal dialogue was something like this. damn. how embarrassing. yes, we really came through that and it turned out ok.  can't believe i'm asking them to do that. No mention of I cant believe WE did that. That part was unquestioned.  Its what we do.

   Thank goodness another man came along right about then and said "No, let me help them.  Y'all go on".   We took him up on it relieved to have found them assistance and gained some assistance for ourselves.   We saw moments later that the trail was marked ON THE ROCK on the ground... with white arrows.  Ok then.    We came to the intersection of Mac's Gap Trail and Little Green

Trail.   We turned right onto Mac's Gap Trail and headed toward Granny Burrell Falls.  

I felt like everything was going to be smoother now as the trail was like the Road to Hell... wide and easy.  It was mostly gentle grades or level right across the valley floor.  

    I liked this trail more than all others.  It is too pretty for words. It is the quintessential Red

Riding Hood forest.  Tall stately pines towering above. A sandy, level trail carpet of pine needles.

It smelled so good.  We were also shopping at this point for camp sites for future trips!

We found some too!  We wanted pretty and near water.  We found all of that.  The forest floor here

is over run with ground pine, running cedar, and ferns.  It is like a natural cathedral.  

The bog of Panthertown is there with its mushy soil too fragile to walk on, but one can peer over into it.   Mosses of all different kinds abound.  Foxtails run here and there across the ground.

Great mounds of sphagnum. Pincushion mosses of pale celery green.  It is delightful to see and touch.     Birds sang and flitted. The rain started and stopped as it had all weekend.  

    I was very down about my camera, but just kept trying not to think on it. 

We made our way to Granny Burrell Falls watching every turn off the trail closely.   We frequently checked the map against the reality of what we were seeing.  

Top: running cedar coats the ground along Mac's Gap Trail

Bottom: Mac's Gap Trail. We've hiked it all!  Coated in rusty red, soft pine needles over sand.

     We arrived at Granny Burrell Falls to a cacophony of laughter and squeals.  It was clear there were lots of people enjoying the falls today before we ever got there!  It was a happy sound and we did not mind. We talked to nice families and children.   We sat down at the top of the falls and watched kids have races with "boats" of sticks letting them go down the stream.  Kids were sliding down the low, pretty falls.   The brown stain of the stream is oddly beautiful with the gold flecks of mica minerals in it.   Gray beach of stones.  Placid pools on this beach of dark brown water.

Sunshine. Clouds.  Sprinkles of rain.  The weather changing its mood moment my moment.

I had the company of my friend and all this natural beauty.   Salami sammidges. Fresh cheese.

Veggies and dip. Apple slices.  Grapes. yummy!   We took in the falls and I got out my camera for photos.  All the fog was gone!  Praise the Lord for that!  My camera was going to be OK.

What a relief.     

     I was having my misgivings about the planned route.  I knew that those red dots on the Panthertown Map can mean just about anything is possible.  The red dot path up to Carlton Falls is cake compared to some off trail hikes we've done.  The red dot path here to the top of Big Green on its far end..... ? My thought on it based on the topography was that this was not going to be the case.   It is extreme.  I had doubts it was used at all if ever.  I did not want to rain on the parade, but wanted to go along and get along.  We would do it if it could be done.  We hunted for it.

We tried the tiny path that lead above Granny Burrell Falls to see where that went?? 

Cathy and some little boys at Granny Burrell Falls.

     The unofficial path turned out to be worth hiking.  The rain storm was upon us in earnest again.

We donned all our rain gear.   I put my pack cover on.   My poor camera had been through enough!  We hiked this short path that felt like I had stepped into a windowless closet and closed the door behind me.  Parts of this rhodo tunnel were so impenetrably black. Add to that the 2 pm full on thunder storm with a downpour of rain amplifying the darkness at  mid afternoon. 

We passed another pretty cascade and slide on the upper part of the stream above Granny Burrell.    We passed a strange tailwaters of the stream. The stream split off into an odd cut away section where the water backed up.  It was black.  The rhodo tunnel here above that stream was pitch black. The stream was pitch black.  I was not scared but captivated.  It is impossible for a camera to show a scene like that, but I am glad I got to experience it.   We emerged about the time

the rain let up a little on the Great Wall Trail. We knew where we were, but this was not right.

We would  be below the mountain not on top of it.  We headed back to try try again!

      We had more hikers ask us about their own trail confusion.  We helped them. 

We asked two ladies about the foot path we were seeking.  They did not know where it was, but the one lady said she had heard it was "serious".  She seemed to know what she was talking about and the topo map bore it out.    We stopped by an unofficial campsite that had been formed 

near Granny Burrell Falls and at the back of it was a path.  Cathy said it petered out as it headed up and she was not convinced this was it.   I had doubts, but felt this WAS it.   I figured it was hardly ever used and thus was going to be like that lady said. SERIOUS.   Hard to find. Hard to follow. Hard to climb.   Since we were unsure we struck a wonderful compromise that suited me to a tee.   We'd just hike Mac's Gap Trail back.   This would give me a chance to enjoy the beauty of the trail and forest. I'd get a chance to photograph it.  I felt confident we'd not have anymore trail confusion.   We would be OK.   

      We hiked it back and got rained on some more.    Toward the end of the hike the sun was trying to come out.  It was uphill part of the way, but not too bad.  We finally got back to camp.

I was happy, but very tired.  I was picking up a vibe from my pal.  I turned to Cathy and asked her what she wanted to do?  She hemmed and hawed. I could tell she was trying to spare my feelings.

I told her I did not care one way or the other.  Either way I felt like I won. Either another night in the woods with my friend OR go back home early and get clean and dry and sleep in a real bed?? 

She said she wanted to leave. She was tired of being wet and dirty.  We packed up and headed home.   I was happy as a clam.   I like backpacking, but I can be such a pussy sometimes.

I am a woman of great contradictions.  I will crawl through the brush and be like a wild animal.

I can grow tired of the dirt,wet, mud and be ready to go home, get clean and dry and be smelling like Bath & Body works.   I can hike my toenails off, but then be ready to go home and get a pedicure and paint those same raggedy toes.   I had blisters and hamburger feet. 

My hiking boots had fairy glamor gold sparkles all over them mingled with mud.

   What a groovy trip.  I can't wait to go again.  Next time.. Salt Rock Gap. 

We're gonna hike the top of Big Green mountain and find that path down off the other side!

Came home and posted on Exploring Panthertown Facebook group... I was right!

The campsite trail WAS the footpath up to Big Green. It is skeery and sketchy!

Let the suffering never end! LOL 

 

      

        

   

         

Below is a short video of Granny Burrell Falls

Gregory Bald Azalea Hike 2014

Gregory Bald azaleas and butterfly.

Gregory Bald Azalea Hike

Sunday June 22, 2014

12 miles round trip

Dana Koogler

Jeff Cole

Mitch & Rhonda Reagan

  

Pictures are here starting with frame 86
 Gregory Bald 2014 Pix

      I hiked to Gregory Bald this azalea season with friends.  I mistakenly thought

that Jeff had been before.  It turned out I was the only one who had ever been before.

I have been to GB via every trail in an assortment of trips over the years.  I have backpacked it.

I have day hiked it.    We day hiked it this time. We met at the Townsend Wye and carpooled.

We agreed on Gregory Ridge Trail out and back.  We also agreed to a super early start at dawn to avoid making the climb during the heat of the day.   All good decisions.  It is a long, steep climb 

no matter how you go.  We managed to avoid the worst of the heat and the mud by going this way.

 I had a good time getting to know Jeff, Rhonda and Mitch better. They are great folks and the more I get to know them the better I like them.   They are all great sports about the pain and

suffering of a long, tough climb.    We just took our time and made the best of it. 

     Gregory Ridge is a gradual ascent which helps. The trail is usually in good condition and 

it was a lot better than the rutted, muddy, horse shit trough of Gregory Bald Trail.   We enjoyed

the roar of Forge Creek along the way. We got to see old growth, big trees!  The rosebay rhododendron was putting on a pretty in pink show down at the lower elevations.  Up high

we were met with every shade of color of the native hybrid azaleas.    Don Hyatt has written a good article about the hybridization process of the flowering shrubs up there which are like

no other place in the world!   Apparently the reason for the unusual amount of blending or hybridization which results in all the different forms and colors is that the necessary four species

are all present there. It has to be this way to take place.   You don't see this amount or type of 

mixing in places where there are only two species to mix.    I have over simplified the explanation, 

but that is it in a nutshell.     Hooper Bald was another place I visited and Don has written about his visit there.  It has hybrid azaleas, but not in the amounts and wide varieties as Gregory Bald.

        Rather than go into a long trip report I will post mostly photos.  I was glad I decided to go.

It really was nice to spend time with friends. It was fun to see their reactions to visiting this special

place for their first time!   I learned new things about each of them that made me value them as people more and admire them more.  I consider that one of the best things about the day.

I had never waited this late in the season to go up.  It was past peak for sure, but still worth it.

The NPS is going to have to do something about the abuse of the bald by horse riders and illegal campers and builders of fires on the grassy bald.    I found that to be very upsetting.  I did not let it

ruin my day though.   I had a grand time and I look forward to the next adventure with my pals!

    

 

      

Gregory Bald is a grassy bald with shrubs and stunted trees. 

Jeff Cole engrossed in his photography!

Butterfly on an azalea shrub

Big black bear at the end of the day.. 

     I even enjoyed cruising around in Cades Cove in the back of Jeff's pickup with Rhonda.
We were looking for stuff to take pictures off. It was very laid back and groovy baby!  :-) 

Its all about the company and the experience. Thanks for sharing it with me!

Little Creek Falls and Heintooga Auto Touring

Climbing Prairie Rose in Metcalf Bottoms area.

I had to pass this on my way to the NC side.

Little Creek Falls and Heintooga Trip

Dana Koogler solo 

Friday June 20, 2014

Hike distance 3 miles round trip

Pictures are here starting with frame 101

Heintooga Pix 

    I  was aiming for 40 miles hiked  during the month of June.  I love it so it was not hard motivating me.  I had been on a kick of really wanting to see the stuff that not everyone visits.   

I had been considering hiking to Little Creek Falls again.  I had hiked to this much less visited waterfall about eleven years ago. It is about sixty feet high and quite pretty.  I'd been putting it off

and finally I took time to consider why?  What was making me not want to go here? 

      Little Creek Falls was one I hiked when I was completing all the guidebook waterfall hikes 

in the Smokies many years ago.   The guidebook was the Charles Maynard Waterfalls of the Smoky Mountains guide.    It was the thin paperback edition.  It lists the hike as difficult and gave two options to reach it. I later learned there are three ways to approach it, but I won't go into that here.    Option number one was a convoluted, difficult 13.6 mile hike on the public trails of the 

Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Option number two was a 3 mile "difficult" hike

taking a short cut across private property and onto the trails of the National Park.

Now which one do you think I wanted to do?  I tried finding the trout farm and Cooper Road the first time only to get upset and confused and give up.  I went back with Kenny and hiked it.

We succeeded in finding it and it was an enjoyable hike.   Thanks to the short cut across private property and the need to request permission... the hike has been a dicey one over the years.

Always had to be prepared to be turned away if they said no.  I reasoned with myself that 

I was a far more experienced hiker and navigator now.  I also looked up the trout farm and saw that many improvements were made to the business which seemed to be thriving.  It was settled.

I would go!

       I loaded up the cooler with food and drinks. I packed anything I might need in the jeep.

I wanted to wear it out and not have to be home until I was ready.   I had to work Saturday so

I would have to at least get home in time to get some sleep before morning.  The weather today 

was glorious. I had clear skies and nice temperatures.  I was hoping to see some purple fringed 

orchids today if I was lucky.  My drive over through Metcalf Bottoms was pretty. I saw lots of

bright pink climbing prairie roses along the roadside.    I had to stop and check those out.

I spoke to a man who was exercising and picking up litter. You gotta love people who do good deeds like that!

       I drove on through the mountains enduring the delays of road construction on Newfound Gap 

Road.  Bright red bee balm bloomed by the road and that was pretty to see.   I also saw rhodo minus, rosebay rhodo and little bits of leftover mountain laurel along the trip.  It was not long until

I began to see purple fringed orchids peeping at me from the roadsides!  I stopped to take pictures

and enjoy the view at Newfound gap. 

Top: first purple fringed orchid of 2014 

Bottom: view from Newfound Gap 

       I considered driving out the Clingman's Dome Road, but quickly dismissed that idea.

I had a lot of my plate already for the day.   I'd do that if the spirit moved me on the way back.

I continued on toward Cherokee and once past the road work I was surprised how quickly the trip went.   No more delays.  Pretty views. Nice weather.  I was grateful for that.    I had the phone number and address of the Coopers Creek Trout Farm just in case.   My crazy GPS "Babala" 

told me to turn on Goose Creek Road. I listened to her, but had misgivings. I had not turned here before and just did not trust her.   I doubled back and went further down the road and turned at Coopers Creek Road like I did last trip.  No sense tempting fate in getting me mixed up again.

I passed the other end of Goose Creek Road on my drive in so I realized that would have been ok.

The drive in was pretty.  I saw lots of orange daylilies, nodding wild onion, and  yards dotted with roses.  Rural life is surely sweet.

Daylilies line the sides of this structure on Coopers Creek Road.

  I found the trout farm today with no worries.  The trout farm used to be a small operation that just raised trout and sold them to stock streams.   It was a rather nondescript place in the past.  It is now an actual trout pond! Here is a link to the place Coopers Creek Trout Farm & Pond

They allow parking and hiking from their place to Little Creek Falls. They ask that you do so during regular business hours. They also want you to sign in at the rental kiosk and sign out when you are done. They will instruct you where to park.  Parking to hike is up the driveway past the old cement foundation.   It is a gorgeous spot now and has had lots of improvements. I was impressed.

Top: landscaped waterfall with lilies at Coopers Creek Trout Farm

Bottom: the trout pond itself under blue skies! 

     I signed in and parked up at the trail head. I had seen another vehicle ahead of me. I absentmindedly watched another pair of hikers head down the trail before me.  We were the only ones around that I could see. I was taking photos of the stream and checking things out.  I grabbed my gear and started down the trail.   It is a pretty hike, but it is also on the rough side.  The hike here is a muddy one where stream and trail merge in more places than one.  I remembered that above all else. I also remembered there was some climb involved toward the end.  I was making my way along through one of the watery sections when I spotted people in the bushes.  I think I spooked them and they spooked me.  They came out of the woods and

we hiked along together.  I had made the acquaintance of Mark and Rosalinde Vann.  They turned out to be great people and I had a better hike for their company.   It is a little bit of a sketchy hike and we got the book out once to check directions for a turn.   They like photography and hiking too and I felt blessed to have encountered them.  It was one of those moments when I knew I was meeting someone I was supposed to meet. It may take a long time before I realize the why, but I don't mind. Today I was just glad for the company of a pair of other hikers on a hike that 

was iffy in my mind.   It was reassuring to be accompanied.   It was bonus that they are fellow Tennesseans!  It was a triple grand slam that they are those rare persons who talk when they have something to say, but can go along and not have to talk.  Sweet!  Just right.  

      Little Creek Falls is pretty and the hike seemed short since I had folks to visit with on the way.

The forest had lots of big old growth trees.  It was pretty to see the sun filter through the canopy.

The falls does have lots of debris in the way and the dappled light of that time of day did not help 

produce the most wonderful photography conditions.  I was like Mark in that I was going to be happy with a snapshot.   No sense fighting it.   I'd like to come back to see this falls again

after a heavy rain and with better lighting!    I passed the falls a bit and enjoyed seeing red fire pinks and blue Virginia spiderwort.    I then turned around and headed back promising to trade

contact info with the Vann's back at our vehicles.    I saw something funny on the way back.

I was wading through that last deep stretch of creek/trail/mud and saw a guy and a girl heading in.

They were dressed like they were going to church. The girl had on a skirt and neither of them had on appropriate footwear for a three mile round trip, very wet muddy hike!   Pfft! I did good and 

contained my laughter, but we had a chuckle about it back at the vehicles.  

 

     Little Creek Falls is big, but is not any 95 footer as described in the Chas. Maynard guide. 


     Once I left the trout farm I headed to the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Balsam Mountain area.
I had seen numerous purple fringed orchids on the way there and hoped I'd see more up high.
The spur road, Balsam mountain campground and all of Heintooga was closed the previous year.
I was eager to go enjoy it while I had the chance.   The parkway itself was gorgeous. The views were clear and sparkling today in all directions at every overlook, but one.  I encountered one overlook where the view had become obstructed by vegetation.   Going higher in elevation in Summer does a couple things for the visitor. You get above the heat and things are usually a lot cooler.  You also can find wildflowers still blooming after they have quit in the lower elevations. 
Today I was treated to mountain laurel, flame azaleas, purple fringed orchids, wild columbine, 
bowmans root, wild geraniums,smooth flowering raspberry and golden alexanders to name a few.   I had the feeling  that the spur road was going to be somewhat of a crap shoot today.  They would have mowed upon opening it since it was not done the previous year while it was closed.  I hoped that had not totally screwed up my wildflower spots.    

    

 

Bunches Bald Overlook off the BRPW

Potpouri of wildflowers along the parkway.  White= bowmans root, red= wild columbine, yellow= golden alexanders.   I like the combo of colors on that green background of Summer leaves!

        I saw turkeys, another  grouse, and elk along the Balsam Mountain Road.  
I saw a few other motorists.  I was pulling over every little bit examining flowers and taking pictures.   I was like a kid in a candy store.  Everyone I encountered was in good spirits and 
friendly. I spoke with a nice couple at Mile High Overlook and a few other folks out the road.
Flame azaleas and mountain laurel abound along this road.  The only saving grace for me today was that I have worn it out up here botanizing. I was not quite as compelled to turn over every leaf
today as I have been in the past.   I had no desire to go down to see Flat Creek Falls today.
It is a doozy of an off trail adventure and I was not in the mood for it today.  Instead I spent time
taking photos of and counting purple fringed orchids. I counted a total of 86 today from the time I began seeing them at Newfound Gap to the end of my days journey.  Less than in some years, but I am certain the mowing affected them.   It is worth noting that I saw more on both sides of the road this year instead of only one side. I also saw them in areas I had never found them before!



Purple fringed orchid. I took close ups and it appears this year that every single orchid I photographed was platanthera psychodes.. the small variety. You tell them apart by the shape of the nectary. 

Clump of PFOs. 

 I stopped by Polls Gap and it is curious that the start of the Polls Gap trail.. appears to have been grubbed out.  It looks like someone is cleaning it up and doing some work on it.  It is at least recognizable as a trail head now.  I moved on to the Heintooga Picnic area and there was not a soul around.  The place was deserted.   The bathrooms and water fountains were operational this trip.
I found myself feeling a little sad and not wanting to hang around here today.  Kenny being out of town and some of our fun trips here just hit me hard.  I'd like to come back here later in the Summer with him.  I moved on rather than upset myself.    I did not want to mess up a string of 
good memories with sadness.  

Heintooga Picnic grounds. It looks like a Bavarian Scene!  It ain't no good without my honey.

    I decided to drive the entire Heintooga road. Once you pass the picnic area the traffic is one way on a dirt road until you get to Straight Fork. I  had wanted to try to photograph the waterfall on Ledge Creek. I saw a bear on my drive. I also spooked two grouse. The first one ran off, but the second one had attitude and told me she'd heard her sister beat my ass for me.  I told her sadly that it was true.  :-)



See the grouse flying up? 

     The road was quiet and dark. It was drier than last time I was here.  I saw lots of fire pinks along the way and some bright yellow sundrops.  I love August along this road.  August is the queen month of wildflowers at high altitudes! Its my birthday month too so maybe my birthday should be here?   I did stop and hike about 1/2 mile up Balsam Mountain Trail but my heart wasn't 
in it.  It was quiet and pretty, but there were loads of diseased turks cap lilies here.
I moved on. I had not gone far when I heard something odd.  It was a fellow on a dirt bike doubling a woman on the back going the WRONG way on the one way road.   What? 

     I had been hoping for little or no traffic so I could pull over and photograph Ledge Creek Falls.
I got that part right, but I will have to go back accompanied for that task and take some rope. 
The skies turned suddenly black and rain began pouring down.  Ledge Creek Falls is small and scenic, but a steep, slippery bank lay between it and me.  I will plan for this better next go round.

     I continued on to Straight Fork.  The whole drive was quiet and pretty.  I love the Cherokee Reservation and was thrilled to see on my drive that many places which had been run down and 
impoverished were fixed up and looked much improved!  I think I could live on the reservation and be quite happy.  It is beautiful.  

Bridge over Straight Fork.  Two way traffic past this point. 

     I continued on my way home. I was very tired and had a long drive to go.  I did stop to view the elk at Oconoluftee.  I saw two bull elk in velvet!
I had favorable conditions and did not get delayed anymore on my way home.
I had a head full of memories and had satisfied my curiousity and urge to ramble for awhile.
I hope I can manage an August trip back here for a picnic and Summer wildflowers and maybe some more waterfalls.   I would not mind taking a hike up to see Waterrock Knob again! See how I am? Barely home and already daydreaming about the next trip.

Below is a short video of Little Creek Falls from today's hike.

Hooper Bald , Huckleberry Knob and Conasauga Falls!

Native azaleas on Hooper Bald

Hooper Bald , Huckleberry Knob & Conasauga Falls 

Dana Koogler solo

Monday June 16. 2014

Total hike distance 4 miles

Hooper Bald Hike Pix

      I was determined to get out to the woods on Monday again to satisfy my soul's craving for

a visit to the beautiful Cherokee National Forest/NantahalaNational Forest area.   I'd been hanging on by the skin of my teeth to get there.  The weekend trip through the vicinity just

 stoked that fire. Monday I went bopping out the door with my gear and down the road I went. 

        I enjoyed the drive down through Madisonville and Tellico Plains.  I turned and headed up

the Cherohala Skyway toward the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina.   I was heading for Hooper Bald first.   I arrived at the trail and parked at the second access spot instead of the trailhead proper.   I saw only one vehicle there.  I made the short hike up to see the azaleas.

I was not disappointed. I hit it just right.  They were in peak bloom.  I wandered around the bald

checking out the assorted colors.  The shades of color here do not have the wide range and show

less hybridization than on Gregory Bald. It is a far shorter hike and the character of the place is

quite different.   I had the place to myself far as I could tell.  It is wild and wooly up on Hooper Bald.  No horses or horse manure. No crowds.  I stood on the rock pulpit and checked out the view.  The briers are  taking the view away, but I did not care.   I saw shades of orange, gold, copper, peach, and red azaleas.  I saw mountain laurel in shades ranging from deep pink to 

almost white.   I loved the dark black green spruce trees contrasted against the brighter shades of color.   The air was fresh and sweet and cool.  The skies changed from bright blue to cloudy.

        I saw something that made me wonder if I was quite mad?  Tiny specks of white floated 

about the bald especially under the shrub canopy.  Considering the visual problems and brain problems of the past months I was not sure what to make of it?  I took another look and it was not

an illusion.  I saw very small flies carrying puffs of silk and giving them to one another like 

presents.  They looked like balloons.  The term "balloon fly" came to mind. I recalled seeing

a nature program that illustrated this phenomena.  I had never witnessed it myself until today!

I was seeing the mating behavior of the balloon flies!  I had no idea they were around the area.

Below is a short video of the azaleas and in the first few seconds you can see them. They are visible later in the video as well.  

      

Pulpit at Hooper Bald



Bright red azaleas. Never saw this shade here before! Love the scalloped edges.

      Another key difference in visiting Hooper Bald versus Gregory Bald? 
Hooper Bald is wilder.  It is like wandering through various rooms of a house to see the azaleas as opposed to the more open character of Gregory Bald.  I don't know what the acreage is in comparing the two. The azaleas on Hooper are confined more to one side of the bald.  
I finally found the spring on Hooper Bald this year! It was running quite well.    



Spruce trees, thick vegetation and briars and azaleas!




Top: Briers, weeds, evergreens laced with orange.
Bottom:  A stunted oak tree grows amidst the brush and azaleas.

       I love the Great Smoky Mountains.  They are part of the reason I moved to Tennessee. 
What I never counted on was all the beauty of the wilderness areas down the road.  I am from an area that is far less populated. I am a person who has lived in a remote area much of her life.   Another thing I never counted on was how much I would crave that solitude and quiet that is restorative to my soul.  Wilderness areas like this are like wandering through my dreams.  They are treasures of solace, beauty and joy. The Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests and the wildernesses they hold are a great source of comfort and escape for me and those like me. 
You can't be a tourist every day in a National Park's front country and get the same thing out of the experience.    Coming here is like coming home.  


       I reveled in the marvels of color and the sweet scents. I listened to the birds sing.
I watched the sun appear then disappear as clouds swooped across the bald.   I wandered where ever I felt lead.    I finally tore myself away and headed back to the jeep. It was around noon and my fat cells were screaming to be fed.  I met a crew of trail maintainers as I got to the parking area.   They were trimming grass and checking things out.  They were eating as they worked. 
One guy had a sammidge hanging out of his mouth as he opened the gate. I enjoyed sitting in my jeep watching to see what he'd do next.  I like it when everything is not so prim and proper.
It keeps things interesting. 

      I drove the short distance up the Skyway to the trailhead for Huckleberry Bald. I had only hiked here once before.  I was very excited thinking I might find wonderful things there. My head was swimming with daydreams of more loads of azaleas of different colors and other beautiful flowers.    I could hardly wait to get started.  I parked and began the hike on a grassy path that is very manicured and looks like it belongs in someone's lawn or in a city park.  It climbs to the highest point along Unicoi mountains in North Carolina.   Since I was up so high here it was no 
surprise the mountains made their own weather.  I was soon hiking in a cloud.  I was enveloped 
briefly by it.  I had yet to cross Oak Knob. I could see far in the distance the cross on Huckleberry marking Andy Sherman's grave.   It looked so far away and like such a daunting climb from where I now stood. I knew it was not, but it still appeared intimidating.  


Clouds rolling in to swallow me up at the start of the Huckleberry hike.  I hiked across Oak Knob.
The rain began in earnest.  I donned my rain jacket.   I walked about 100 feet.  The rain stopped
just as abruptly as it began.   The clouds moved out and the sun shone.  The weather did all that 
in five minutes or less.  Ah the whims of the mountains of the South Land.  The saying about living here if you don't like the weather.. wait five minutes.. it'll change is TRUE! 

     I hiked the gentle grade up to Andy Sherman's grave site.  I hiked around the knob exploring.
My trip to Huckleberry for azaleas was a joke.  I saw one massive azalea bush way back in the spruce trees.  It was inaccessible.  No wildflowers  unless you counted the gazillion buttercups lining the path on the way up here.   They were quite pretty.   I enjoyed watching the cloudscapes around me on all sides.  I decided that while it is a pretty spot it is NOT a good wildflower hike.
My Autumn hike here was by far prettier.   The mountain ash trees up here in Autumn are splendid!  I would like to come back on a clear Autumn day again.  I looked around me and could see the clouds swirling over the mountains nearby. See the image below for a view to the North.

Look at the difference on my hike out! No more dark skies. Now I've got sunshine and a Sound of Music Von Trapp Family day! Birds chirped and I did see sparrows and the rufous sided towhees in the grass and bushes.  Butterflies fluttered along the path ahead of me and swooped around me.
It was a grand time to the in the mountains!

       I was feeling ambitious and craving to see a waterfall so I returned to the jeep and 
considered what I wanted to do next?  Fall Branch Falls was very near.  It made the most sense
as far as closeness and ease of hike. It is always pretty.  I really wanted to find Holder Cove Falls
down on FR 210, but felt I'd best gather some better info from Paul Gamble before attempting that one.  I only had the most general idea where it was located.   I had not visited Conasauga Falls in a long while. I wanted to go there so I headed in that direction.   It is an easy hike to a waterfall
that is always a sure bet.         
   I drove to Tellico Plains enjoying the blue skies and sunshine.   I had some groovy tunes
on the radio and iPod.   I was sipping a cold drink.  Life is good.  I enjoy the back roads almost
as much as I do the trails.   I got to Tellico Plains and turned left (south) onto SR 68.
I went a couple miles and turned right onto Conasauga Falls road. It is signed.  I followed it out to its end. It goes from pavement to gravel back and forth until it ends at a gravel and dirt parking lot.    I saw one vehicle there. A little silver car.  I grabbed my pack and began the easy hike down.
Its all down hill on the way in and all uphill on the way out. Switchbacks make the hike much gentler.    Arrowwood bloomed along the edges of the woods.  It has creamy white blooms.
I also saw a little bit of mountain laurel mostly faded.  I saw pipsissewa.  I saw no snakes today.
Not a single one!  It was hot. The pine forest here smells sweet.  I made my way down to the river.
I could hear Conasauga Creek roaring long before I got to it.  The only other visitors here were two ladies sitting in the sun on the rocks.  They had been in the water cooling off but were just
relaxing there and talking.   Damselflies flitted about me.  I saw some salamanders in the water and minnows.  The falls roared past and down the creek.  Numerous other small riffles and cascades were along the stream both above and below the falls.   It was beautiful as always.


Conasauga Falls       
  I was growing tired and  had a limited amount of time to tarry here today.  I had to get back to 
Muravul to pick up my new computer from the store.  It had been giving me problems.  I was 
to pick it up today fully restored.   I knew they closed at 7 pm.    Regretfully I trudged back up the hill to the jeep and headed back to town.    I can't complain. I had good weather and mostly solitude today. I filled my head up with beautiful things.  Good things!
I was unable to resist taking a turn on the dirt road out to see where it lead?  It was so pretty and quiet.    I still had to turn around and make myself go back to town. I had it in my mind that
this road must come out at Coker Creek or that area? A later look at the map revealed that yes! It did come out on Hot Water Road down in the Coker Creek vicinity.  The trails, the wander thirst and back roads go on forever. 

     Here is a short video of Conasauga Falls from my hike.