My daughter Crystal is a teacher and has the Summer off with the students. We talked it over and decided we wanted to take a trip up to Frozen Head State Park. We'd take the kiddos and let them play in the creek. My original plan was to have a picnic out there, but we opted to have lunch in Chik-Fil-A
in Oak Ridge instead. The kids enjoyed the food and the play land. Once that was finished we headed on out the road to the state park. We always enjoy it. Today would be Mia's first time there and her first time at a waterfall!
We arrived finding very few vehicles around. We were able to park right at the trailhead.
We gathered up our drinks and creek toys and started our hike. The little ones noticed a pretty hole of water right past the gate. We stopped there first to let them go ahead and play.
Above: My daughter Crystal looks on as Mia age 4 wades right in.
Below: Gabe is a little more cautious
Below: some of the pretty things we saw were wildflowers.. the one below is Virginia spiderwort
and below is a pair of Eastern Tiger Swallowtail butterflies. Tessa was able to pick one up and hold it a moment before it flew.
Below: Granddaughter Tessa age 12 with her hat on backwards. Crystal and Gabe.
The kids remembered we were supposed to be hiking to the waterfall so we soldiered on!
It is a super short, easy hike which is nice especially for taking along a four year old who isn't used to hiking. Mia never complained or slowed down the entire time! She was full of energy and all about it!
We saw a few other hikers, but most were coming back toward us.
We soon crested the little knoll where you turn to go over to Debord Falls. Tessa and Gabe remembered it from a couple other visits. We turned right and headed toward the steps.
The steps are impressive and newly done.
Below is the beautiful Debord Falls in good Summer flow!
Below: Mia and Tessa are checking out a crawdad in the net. Nanny had to catch him. I'm still the expert. The kids forget that crawdads go BACKWARDS away from you.
Below: Gabriel has been dunking his head in the falls and the creek. He reminded me at one point for the world... of John Quillen. LOL
Below: a look at the crawdad who had only one claw! Nanny picked him up but nobody else wanted to hold him.
above and below: Tessa is on the hunt for critters!
Below: Gabe and Mia
The kids had a great time splashing around and catching butterflies, crawdads, minnows in the creek.
Once they had their fill of that we took them to the playground in the state park. They had a great time making friends with other kids and playing together. Mia mastered the skill of going down the fireman's pole part of the playset. I had to help her the first time, but after that she was good to go!
above and below: Gabe and Tessa on the playset
The kids were great and it was a bluebird day. Perfect weather. No problems. All went to plan.
Finally we persuaded them it was time to head home. They were tired especially Mia. She was asleep shortly after we pulled out on the road. We made a stop in Oak Ridge for Crystal and Tessa to go in the book store. The rest of us waited in the car while Mia napped. We thought we wanted icecream, but everyone was worn out and just ready to go home. The only minor snag we hit was trying to leave Oak Ridge during rush hour! Kenny was somewhere caught in it too. No matter. We had a great day and made it home safely.
Below is a video of the playing in the creek part of our day.
I woke on Tuesday and decided to give Frozen Head another try. I would go and do some more hiking there. I had my doubts about it since the lower elevations the flowers were beginning to be quite faded. I hoped against hope that I'd see some and get to enjoy them. I went on over that morning with my lunch packed and hiked. My plan was to hike Judge Branch to South Old Mac onward to the intersection with Chimney Tops Trail, come down Spicewood and close my loop back at the parking area. It would give me a chance to see some new territory. I saw few others in the parking area.
I set off and the trail to begin with is very wide and flat and the uphill grade is barely perceptible. It was pretty enough, but the creeks weren't running too great. I was steadily seeing spent blooms on trilliums. Dried brown husks or wilted petals that were sheer. I hoped as I climbed higher in elevation I'd see more bloom, but that was not the case. It was then I pulled out the guidebook and did what I should have done ahead of time. Apparently these trails are better ones to do for early bloom. The trail is sheltered and gets the right type sun and temperatures for things to open up in mid to late March. No wonder I wasn't seeing much.
It was discouraging to say the least. I tried to make the best of it, but by the time I got part way up South Old Mac and things weren't improving at all I decided enough was enough.
I turned and headed back down South Old Mac. I did a loop hike, but it was very abbreviated by comparison.
Above: Wilted trillium blossom
Below: Wild geranium along Judge Branch Trail
Above: Ford of Judge Branch to continue
Below: Pretty cascade where the trail comes down to make a turn and ford
Above: Un-named side stream flowing toward the Judge Branch Trail
Below: smooth yellow violet
Below: I saw a few foam flowers still in bloom today
Below: Rattlesnake fern
Above: Judge Branch Trail in the sunshine
Below: Dwarf Crested Iris past peak bloom
Below: I saw a "Gobey Gold" sweet betsy trillium at Frozen Head!
Below: Lots of fresh dwarf crested iris still in bloom on South Old Mac trail
Below: Two Flowered Cynthia in bloom South Old Mac
Above: Yellow Star grass South Old Mac
Below: A pretty spot along South Old Mac Trail banks loaded with soft green ferns
Above: I saw a few Little Brown Jugs in bloom on South Old Mac
Below: Cumberland Spurge South Old Mac
Above: A bad place in the trail on South Old Mac. It was this way the last time I hiked it years ago. Nothing has been done to remove it apparently!
Above and below are views of the old CCC era dynamite shack
Above: South Old Mac Trail in one of the smoother, better maintained spots
Below: Blue violet was in bloom on both trails today
I concluded my hike and headed back toward Wartburg. It was early enough I wasn't even ready for lunch yet. I stopped by what looked like the better grocery store in Wartburg, the Darnell Food Market. I got a few items and checked out their store. It was pretty good for a small town store.
I went by Hammers Dry Goods and found nothing of interest. I just went on back to the camper to figure out my next move.
After lunch I decided to try hiking again. I'd head toward the Obed River and see Lily Bluff and Melton Mill Falls. I drove round that way and it seemed like it took me longer to arrive than it should have. It has been too long since I did any hiking in this area. I found it without any problems, but it was clear to me that my memory of the place was inaccurate. It didn't make any difference. I hiked out to the overlook and enjoyed it. The day was sunny and beautiful. I could see Clear Creek down there flowing by. I saw stitchwort among the rocks at the overlook. I did not see many flowers here. While the view was nice it was not a thrilling experience.
Below: View from Lily Bluff
Below: view of Lily Bridge from the overlook
Below: Clear Fork viewed from the overlook.
Above: Stitchwort is tiny white flowers on the rocks at the overlook
Below is a video of the overlook experience
Once I had hiked back to the jeep from the overlook, I hiked the unofficial trail to Melton Mill Falls.
I wanted to see the upper falls first then the lower. I got to the point where I'd need to pick my way among the rhodo and boulders to reach the upper falls. I spotted a pattern on the ground that gave me immediate cause for concern. Baby rattlesnakes! Lots of them. I've never seen baby rattlers before!
I was unable to safely walk through there without risking a bite. Too many of them in too many places. I decided the best thing to do was let them have the upper falls and see if I couldn't visit the lower one. I felt like the objective was to live to tell the tale and come back again another day.
I managed to make it to a good view of the lower falls. It was quite pretty.
Below: a view of Lower Melton Mill Falls
Below: The forest above the falls was beautiful. A mixture of sun and bright green leaves and deep green and gloom!
Below is a video of Lower Melton Mill Falls
I made my way back to the camper. I had filled up the day and was ready to rest.
I was discouraged a little at the way this trip was not really meeting my expectations and hopes.
I had wanted to hike more trails at Frozen Head and in the area. I really wasn't seeing much that impressed or motivated me. I decided that this was why it was good that I was close to home. I would head back early and find something else to do. I woke in the morning and put things in the camper in order. I set out toward Oak Ridge. I stopped in at Erin's Meadow Herb Farm and shopped. I bought lots of herbs for redoing my herb garden out back. It had been way too long since I was at this place. I always enjoy it. I got home and put away the few things I needed to. I had the rest of the evening to dig in the dirt and that was good for me. I had the satisfaction of seeing my little herb garden looking healthy and ready to take off. I companion planted a lot of herbs with flowers. This is to discourage insect pests and to take advantage of the available space. It is good to be able to walk out into the back yard and snip some sprigs of thyme from my hanging baskets to cook with!
Above: Hanging basket with thyme in there to one side.
Below: herb garden redone
Now that I was home I just got my kiddos back and took Gabe back and forth to school. I let him and Mia get out with me and dig in the dirt. They planted herbs, flowers and seeds in the evenings. We all had family dinners together. Papaw was working out of town, but I did not have time to be lonely. Jared & Lydia were there too. I took Gabe to feeding therapy on Thursday afternoon.
Kenny got back in town Friday morning or late Thursday night. I can't recall exactly when. The plan all along was to take the children back out to the camper to spend a night before we brought it home. We went out there and cooked supper and they spent Friday evening playing in the creek until it got too dark to see. Much better than watching cartoons or movies. Much better than playing video games.
They were happy, tired and dirty. We put Mia on the tailgate to change her into a dry diaper before going back to the camper. Lo and behold.... she had gotten excited playing in the creek and pooped! Kenny with his directive personality wanted to give me the step by step instructions how to change her. I was ready to pinch his head off. It is a good thing I have a sense of humor. I looked at him as I was wrangling this chunky toddler with a booty full of poop near my face... and said "Anytime you want to jump in here and DO this as opposed to DIRECTING this feel free!?!"
He ducked his head down a bit sheepishly.
The kids were asking to go to bed once we got back to the camper and they got dry and warm.
We had a good finish to our trip and they helped us pack up and go home the next day. Back home. Back to church on Sunday. Back to our routine. It was a good trip.
Just the same I need to go someplace different next year. REALLY different.
I have my mind on Manchester/Tullahoma area.
Either that or the Blue Ridge Mountains of Western NC.
**Edited to add August 10, 2020-- I got a nice email message from a lady named Carolyn Moore who is the 3x great granddaughter of Bletcher Armes for whom Armes Gap was named! To any readers who happen upon this entry if you have knowledge or facts to share with her please reach me via email or my contact form on here. I will pass along her email address to you so you can share it. She is interested in all she can find out about her family history. I am sure interested and happy to try to help out. **
I had been told by a ranger several years ago that Canada lilies bloomed up in the vicinity
of the Frozen Head Tower. I saw the remains of lilies there one Autumn so I decided I would
try hiking up there during the time when they should be blooming. Maybe I'd be lucky and get to see them? I figured at the least it would be a pretty hike and not too hard. I got an early start to avoid the blistering ninety degree heat and humidity we've been experiencing.
I parked at Armes Gap and crossed the road to the trail head. It is gated.
Note that dogs are allowed. Hiking is allowed. Mountain biking is allowed.
No ATVs, Horses, gingseng diggers, are allowed.
Seven Sisters Roses bloomed wild by where I parked my jeep.
Gate at Armes Gap Trail Head. From here it is 2.2 miles to Tub Spring. Then you have another 0.5 miles to the Tower. Uphill gradually with switchbacks. There is a side trail to the old prison mine.
Shaded most of the way too on a Summer morning!
Black raspberries! I hadn't eaten these since I was a little girl! We used to pick them by the bowl full and Mom would make icecream with it. The best place to pick them was Lake Wallace where we had a Summer camp!
Morning light peeping through the forest canopy.
I saw more Indian pinkroot today along this hike than I have ever seen in one place in my life!
Hands down it gets the prize for most of this wildflower!
The forest was filled with bird song and the drumming of one lone woodpecker.
It smelled fresh and green and good. The scenery is pleasant, but not anything to shout about.
It is a nice area and sees far less use than the Smoky Mountain trails. I saw one other hiker all day.
He was just beginning as I was nearing my vehicle.
I climbed steadily up until I reached the next gap. It is where you find Tub Spring. It is a major intersection of three other trails. Tub Spring campsite is nearby. The water in the spring looked a little less yucky than the last time I took a look at it.
Tub Spring
I rested briefly at the spring and then pushed onward. I only had half mile to go to reach the tower.
The sun was creeping higher and illuminating the slopes above me. It was quite pretty.
I rounded the bend and began to see lilies alright. Not Canada lilies. Pretty, but just regular day lilies.
Lots of Virginia spiderwort today too along the entire hike.
I also saw Leather Vase Vine in several spots along the hike. I had never seen as much of this flower in one place either!
Rounding the bend in the trail the tower came into view.
I climbed up and sat down after awhile to have a snack and a drink. It is very sturdily constructed.
Beautiful view out over Morgan County and the Cumberland Mountains from the top of the tower.
Flame azalea was in bloom at the tower site today. Not a lot of it, but some.
Hemerocallis fulva.. day lilies galor! I did not find a single Canada lily today, but I still had a good hike. I found lilies.. just not the kind I hoped for.
I hiked back and took time to go down each North Old Mac, South Old Mac and the start of the Chimneytops trail just a short distance to make certain I wasn't missing them. I don't know if they just aren't there and I got bad information. Maybe I was too early? Maybe they didn't bloom this year? Perhaps I was looking in the wrong place? Dunno.
I hiked back to the jeep before it got hot and uncomfortable. I got to spend some time in the woods. I got some fresh air, exercise and saw lots of pretty scenery and wildflowers. I experienced Frozen Head Tower for the second time ever and the first time hiking there in Summer.
All in all a good day. This would be a fun hike to set a shuttle and hike up from Armes Gap and hike down Chimney Tops trail to the main grounds of the State Park in Springtime!
Directions to Armes Gap and the Frozen Head Summit:
From Knoxville: Take Pellissippi Parkway Hwy 140 west toward Oak Ridge. Follow it to its end where it becomes 162.. the Solway. Stay on that until it becomes Rt. 62 through Oak Ridge.
Go through town and head toward Oliver Springs.. Stay straight through the light toward Oliver Springs. Go over the highway... at the bottom of that ramp you'll turn right to stay on Rt. 62.
You're heading toward Frozen Head State Park , but you want to turn onto Rt. 116 for Petros BEFORE you get to the main grounds of the state park. You'll be entering the state park thru
the back door so to speak.
Follow Rt 116 North as it winds through the rural area past the old closed down Brushy Mountain State Prison on your left. Armes Gap is about at the crest of the mountain. You can park on the right or left. the Gillotine Trail heading into Wind Rock is on the right of the gap.
The trail head to start your hike is on the left at the gate.
above: Virginia spiderwort in bloom 
.jpg)
.jpg)
