I had wanted for some time to show my friends around one of my most special places.
I invited Linda and Pat to go with me to Alarka, and they accepted. We planned to meet up at my house and car pool from there. Pat graciously prepared homemade chicken salad and potato salad.
Linda made trail bars from scratch. We had fruit and pita chips and hummus and sweet tea.
The ride over while long, seemed short thanks to the laughter and pleasant, rich conversation.
We started off at Alarka at the base of the falls. We had our picnic lunch and savored that.
Once we had our mess picked up we hit the trail. It is nice to report the litter at the trail head was minimal, but I still picked up what I found. It is also nice to report that there is now an actual trail
to the main drop of the falls! It is in pretty good condition. Still slippery and rocky in places, but better than previous means of getting there. We had a brief rain shower and had to don our rain gear.
It let up and we did not leave them on long as it was hot wearing plastic.
The weather was overcast with periods of sun breaking through. It was nice and cool compared to the flat lands. I can also say for certain that the trail I was on last week that is unmarked DOES for sure come out down here at this parking area. I also solved the mystery of the huge map error on the TI Nantahala National Forest Map. It shows it is possible to go from the base of the falls to the top via a road. It is shown that way because it USED to be possible to do so. What I am now calling a trail along the Cold Spring Branch drainage to the west of the falls was a 4WD access road that
is now gated and used as a trail. It would bring you out along Conleys Creek Road, but it will not
take you to the top of the falls.
We enjoyed the falls. Plenty of water coming over today. They seemed to find it as pretty as I did. It is truly impossible to see all the drops of the falls as it is two hundred feet worth of waterfall.
It is such rugged terrain that going up or down is tough and there is no trail except to the beginning of the top part and to the base with nothing between.
Alarka Falls from the base.. the main drop
Below is a short video of the falls
We hiked back out and had to take our time because of the wet rocks which were greasy slick.
We drove back round to the express way and went round to the top part. We wanted to check out the Summer wildflowers at Big Laurel. I also did pick up some more trash,but not all of it. Some had already been picked up by me the previous week and some was picked up by someone else.
We hiked various parts of the trails to get these ladies a sampling of what is here. My camera messed up and so I did not take photos after we got up there. I was the wildflower trail guide. It turned out to be a minor problem thankfully. My battery charger malfunctioned and did not charge the batteries. It lied to me and green lighted saying it had finished. I was relieved to find that it was not the camera.
I have since gotten the problem solved and all is well. I will keep an eye on the battery charger and if it happens again I will do away with it.
I had a good time and we all had fun. We were the only hikers on the trails all day.
We saw one other vehicle up top. Guys in a jeep. It was a long day and we did not get home until very late. I appreciate my friends spending time with me and sharing this special place.
Linda asked me if there was a guide for this place. I told her there is not unless you count Kevin Adam's book which gives directions to the base of the falls . I have decided to create a map and
a guide that will describe the trail system. I have also decided to shoot a video that starts in the headwaters of the creek and goes down the entire falls. Like I told someone yesterday...
I'm bracing myself cause this is gonna hurt. ;-D
No trail into at least one portion of the headwaters. No trail down the falls.
I had wanted to get out just me and Kenny and go some place quiet. I wanted to
work on my Lookout Tower Challenge. We slept a little bit. We got going slowly and
set out toward Robbinsville and Graham County, NC. We stopped by Tapoco and hiked to
Yellow Creek Falls. It is only 0.3 miles one way and very easy. We had been before, but it
is on the way and it seemed a shame not to check it out.
The main drop of Yellow Creek Falls is about 15 feet high or so. It is very scenic. You pass several pretty cascades on the way there. The stream had plenty of water in it today.
We saw three other hikers today on this trail and they were all together as a family group.
I saw this carved on the rock at the falls. It is a Cherokee Medicine wheel. I don't know if it is old or recent. It looks like it was done long enough ago to have weathered some.
Below is a short video of Yellow Creek Falls and the various drops along the trail.
Next we headed on toward Robbinsville and went up toward the lookout tower.
It is way up Long Creek Road and past Tatham Gap. The Trail of Tears passed< from Robbinsville to
Andrews then on to Murphy. Lots of history in this area and not all of it good. Hard subject for me.
Teyahalee Bald is listed as a North Carolina's Mountain Treasure. I would have to agree.
The Bartram Trail goes across here. The Valley River trail was in the area at some point in the past, but I don't know much about that except that it existed. We parked at the gate and hiked up from there. We saw two hikers today on their way back from the tower bringing our grand total of other hikers for the day to five! Quiet and peaceful. Exactly what I hoped for. They were a nice couple, but the woman was not dressed appropriately for hiking at all. They also walked up there and did
not know it was OK to climb the tower for the view. A pity too. We passed the end of the Bartram Trail on our way up to the lookout. The weather up here today was seventy degrees, sunny, blue skies and perfect! The tower site is not as attractive as some since it is heavily plastered with other towers and structures. Kenny can tell you what each one does since that is his wheelhouse.
I did not realize until Sunday that Kenny's crane has an anomometer on it! Fancy.
Summer wildflowers were pretty along the hike and up on the tower site. Butterflies dotted the place. Disconnected wires and cables hung on the tower and from some of the trees.
Below is a video of the view from the tower. The cat walk and cab are locked, but the stairs are open and quite steep!
Here is a shot of the tower. I remembered to take a photo of it this time.
View from Teyahalee.
Next we started back down the mountain from the tower and stopped for me to check out a stone structure I spotted on the way up. It was a rectangular hut about the size and shape of a stone outhouse! It was in good condition except a tree had fallen over it and the roof and such were gone.
It did not appear to be an outhouse or spring house. No additional holes or water present.
Sixty feet away was a larger stone structure built from a similar stone masonry. It was quite a bit bigger. It looked like a small house. No idea what it was at one time. I saw lots of similar stone masonry down in Robbinsville on various structures. One little hut exactly like the stone outhouse was down by the water treatment plant on Longs Creek Road. I will just have to wonder what the purpose of all that was. I found nothing on it.
Smaller rectangular structure. This is above Tatham gap.
I am IN the larger stone structure looking out the door.
I am outside the larger structure looking back at its door. No roof. No door.
Next we headed back towards Robbinsville and on down the road to the Tulula Wetland.
It was not hard to find. Once we got down there and parked we walked in the most likely direction to find it and we did! We found a few ponds and some wetland species of shrubs and flowers. It was quite pretty. Kudzu was taking over the world on the way there. Death by strangulation and purple kool aid. We had no idea what we were doing or looking for at Tulula Wetlands, but we found it and enjoyed it just the same. It was not long until I spotted a swarm of yellow fringed orchids!
I saw ferns, ground nut, joe pye weed and such. We found the source of water for the bog.
It is a spring high up on the slope that really gushes. The wetland is a slope fen and a flood plain and not a true bog. It was going to be a golf course and work had been done to create it. It tore up the flood plain and one of the last remaining southern forest fens in the state. The work was stopped and UNC's department of environmental studies has educated their students on mitigation and restoring this beautiful, unique place. I have read some of the articles on it and wow! I can't believe foolishness of destruction of habitat for a golf course. I also can't believe what a lot of hard work has been done to fix it! It appears to be succeeding. It had grown hot. It was snakey. We were wading around not knowing what we were doing or where we were going. We took in about half of what was there. We learned later upon going home we will have to return to see the rest.
Poor view of a wetland pond.
Grassy area with just SOME of the forty or so platanthera ciliaris we found.
Closer view of one of the larger, prettier specimens of Yellow Fringed orchid.
I told ya orchids like power line cuts!
Pinkish brown tones of ground nut blossoms.
I see my my crystal ball of the future.......
Us going back to Tulula to finish seeing what's there.
Going back to Burgan Creek Falls.
Hunting up the lesser known waterfalls of Graham County.
We had been talking about taking the kids over to Cherokee for awhile to play.
We wanted to all have the experience of playing in River Park together in the Luftee.
We wanted to shop and experience the Cherokee culture and dances together. We finally
got our chance last Saturday. Crystal and Adam both had to work so we had the children
with us. We made the long drive over without any problems. Michael travels very well at
his age and Tessa slept which helped.
Our plans did not go off without some adjustments. We ended up modifying the plans
a number of times, but it was a fun day and a learning day for all of us. We ended up stopping and eating a buffett lunch at the Newfound Lodge Restaurant in Cherokee. It was very good. It was exactly where we needed to be. Michael had expressed some concern to be about meeting Indians. He was worried. A sweet, smiling lady stood there and greeted us as we
came to our table. I grinned at her and asked her to come over to me. She did and I put my arm around her and looked at Michael. I said to her "Tell him what you are?" She obliged me by hugging me back and telling him "I'm an Indian." He dissolved in a smile and I said to him
"See, I told you Indians are just people." She was the perfect ambassador. She took a moment
to speak to us and to even share that her own grandson, a native child, was afraid of the warriors in their garb. She explained that she got him over that by having one of the warriors
at Powwow remove some of his regalia and show the child he was just a man. The staff there
was warm, welcoming and the food good and prices reasonable. Both kids ate wonderfully!
We stopped next at the first native dancers place on the right heading in.
We sat and enjoyed several dances. They are free, but they accept donations and this is how they get payed. Stop in and make certain to donate generously. It was great fun and I can't wait to get the chance to return and do this again.
Below are a couple videos of the dances.
There is more to this dancing than meets the eye and it looks hard!
It was hot and the baby was getting flushed red so we moved on. They did not want native american toys in the store. I wanted them to get headdresses and drums and tomahawks so we could play Scalp Custer, but they did not go for it. Maybe another time.
We were burning up so we progressed on to the Luftee and River park.
We found a place to park. It was crowded on account of a Trout Derby. We changed and got in the river fast to cool off. We splashed. We played. We visited other nice families and the kids played with other kids. They shared their toys and were wonderful. We caught minnows and one huge crawdaddy! Tessa drank water slurping it right out of the Luftee. Fish heads and feet and butts and all. She is alive yet! I did not take any photos of this part as we were busy playing.
Michael dressed in Aunt Boo's leopard print garb. It incites War in the Black Devil, Diesel.
Tessa playing with the Leap Pad and singing.
Three photos above are still shots from the Hoop Dance. It was very beautiful and complicated!
I should have videotaped it, but I did not want to miss it by fooling with the camera settings.
Last we stopped by the visitor center at Occonaluftee and purchased each child a toy of their choosing. Michael picked an owl which he named Red Hawk. Tessa picked a black bear which she has not named, but hugs a lot. She wanted key chains, but since she is still tiny and puts things in her mouth we refused to do it. She got so excited about the key chains she had to have a diaper change. She looked up at me and told me she pooped! Shew-wee! is what she says about that.
We headed home tired but happy. The kids slept pretty much all the way home.
We wore them out!
I began my love affair with Alarka in Summer 2003. It started off lumpy and awkward
and like one of those bad boyfriend type relationships I sometimes have with places. It was not one of those love/hate type things, but a faltering, fumbling courtship. It began with the search for Alarka Falls. The search involved many attempts and the brain and leg power of
Jordan Mitchell, myself, Kenny, and "Waterfall Rich" Stevenson. We started searching for the falls at the top. We ended up finding it thanks to Jordan from the base. It is good that it went
the way it did though. Getting confused about roads and trails. Getting rained on. Wandering like the Hebrew children in the wilderness. All of it took me to different aspects of Alarka.
I read George Ellison's columns about its history. I gained confidence and went back. I fell in love with this place and felt it becoming more to me than just the location of a pretty waterfall.
I have a beautiful dream that recurs. In the dream I am going through the rooms and passages of a large, intricate house. Each passage or room contains its own beauty and secrets and treasures. I sometimes dream of being on a trail going through a beautiful valley and climbing a mountain side. I found that the spirit of Alarka is very much alive and if I would listen and
be patient it would reveal to me various secrets and treasures when the time was right.
Being there exploring and feeling the spirit of place brought alive in me the same emotions
as that dream. The difference was that I was not dreaming, but experiencing these things in actuality.
It was fantasy come to life for the wanderer.
Once I had the confidence to return alone I eventually connected the top route to the base.
I won't forget that feeling if I live to be a hundred years old. Pure elation! I began going back and
spending the day there cleaning up trash and checking on the trails. I thought of Walton Smith and
his legacy. I would go out to the true red spruce bog in Springtime. Each trip brought about
new knowledge and joys. I had found a spiritual center and a place that resonated with me.
Last Summer I went later than usual. It was September. My best friend Cathy had not been
and I wanted her to have that experience. We went and found the falls. We made it all the way to the bottom from the top. It was harrowing. I found a pleasant surprise that there was no
need to maintain trails or pick up trash! All was in order. I admit that in the time that passed since
last September I had grown a bit jaded. I still loved Alarka, but I began to wonder if all the secrets
had been revealed to me that were to come? I need not have worried.
I came back Friday July 31, 2015. I enjoyed the beautiful drive and perfect bluebird day.
I had decided on a last second whim to be brave and find out where "East Alarka Road" went.
I turned the jeep left and crept out there on a very sketchy road that wound through deep green
forest gloom. The road was rutted, muddy, and very narrow. I stayed with it and hoped I'd find a
place to turn around if I needed it. I found Gunter Gap and an old cemetery there. I found
red dirt, blue skies, orchids, lilies and one lazy black snake. I sat down on my haunches and talked to the black snake for a little bit. Butterflies flitted here and there.
He was still waking up to start his day so I left him in peace.
Do you see the black snake under there?
Gunter Gap on an old no name road. I call it East Alarka Rd.
First yellow fringed orchid of the season.
I found a bonanza of yellow fringed orchids this season. I found them growing in three areas I had never found them in before. I also found an abundance of Carolina lilies and more.
Lilium michauxii var. attituve ;-) If I were a lily.. I'd be just like this. Disheveled!
I was very excited about my finds and looked forward to what else the day would hold?
I had recaptured very quickly my sense of wonder about the place. I got my snake mojo back.
I had satisfied my curiosity at last about where that road ended up. I could hear the soft voice of my muse leading me again. I had come today with plans of many things. I had been planning a quick bombing run through Alarka. I was then going to hit up the Blue Ridge Parkway and some back roads around the Qualla Boundary. It didn't take me long to realize I wasn't going anywhere else today. You don't come to visit an old friend and then rush off.
I parked at the gap and got out to see what lay ahead. I left keys in jeep. I left all but my camera and wandered away. Part of me was listening to the leading of that voice and I was not
worried about one thing. I began seeing yellow foxglove, green adders mouth orchid, purple phlox,
black eyed susans, woodland sunflowers, ostrich ferns, woodland ferns, yellow fringed orchids, daisies, lionsfoot and other Summer delights. I was on a path I had only hiked a few feet of before.
Now I meandered along its course and went in and out through deep shade, then dappled sunlight.
I looked to my right and there in the deep green forest gleamed several dots of red orange.
Carolina lilies in the woods. I waded out through the weeds carefully to check to see what
these were? I looked at the faces and they lacked the green center star. They were indeed
Lilium michauxii. I found 23 plants in all today in three or four locations. I began to cry tears of joy over the beauty and discovery. I quieted and I could feel Jenny's sweet spirit with me.
I could see her smile in my minds eye. It was a comfort. I savored every moment of this time.
I continued further having only the most general idea where I was heading. It then occurred to me I had no idea how far I had walked and I also had left the keys in my jeep with the windows down, etc. I had abandoned everything for aimless wandering. I headed back in that direction.
I was fortunate to find that there was not another soul around and all was as I left it.
Prenanthes serpentaria "Lions foot". It is abundant locally, but up north it has been extirpated due to over harvesting for its medicinal properties.
I drove a bit further and pulled over. I'd drive. Pull over. Walk around. Repeat.
I took my sweet time and enjoyed all that I was finding. I saw more carolina lilies and some that just
were different. They lacked the green center star of turks cap lilies, but they were a different color from Carolina lilies. I wasn't sure what was going on, just that they were different. I could still feel
Jenny's spirit with me. I was encompassed by joy.
Butterfly on Carolina lily
Butterfly on what I later figured out is a Michigan lily!
One of many yellow fringed orchids amidst black eyed susies and other pretties. I forded the creek and saw a group of two families camping. They were the only persons I saw all day up here. They were quiet and kept to themselves. I was getting hungry. I kept on taking photos and exploring. I found a spring I hadn't even known existed in all these years! I wandered up through the wildflower meadow and got fluttered by bees and butterflies.
Wildflower meadow filled with Eastern bergamot, black eyed susans, yarrow, skullcap, and clematis.
I finally made myself stop and eat. I needed to eat for certain. Once I had something on my stomach I got some trash bags out and prepared to clean up trash. I then realized I'd be driving around with trash in my jeep in the heat. I decided it best to make trash pick up the last thing I did before leaving. Change of plans and I continued wandering yet another trail to see what I could round up? I found more yellow fringed orchids, ladies tresses, Carolina lilies and Michigan lilies! I went further and found the trail was getting so little use the vegetation is encroaching very badly. I had not planned on hiking this entire trail today anyhow. I decided to come back with a pair of clippers and brush bar and trim back the plants out of the trail.
Here the trail is very overgrown . Soft rushes in the trail.
Here the trail is more open. Appalachian sunflowers lining this section!
I felt rich indeed. I was finding so many beautiful things. Butterflies and bees were everywhere. I walked back to the jeep at last since I had at least two more locations I wanted to check out. I headed up toward Cowee to see what I'd find? I made the Lincoln Town Car turn like a boss and continued up the gravel road. I began seeing eight foot high lilies! They were gorgeous.
I saw tall bellflower, woodland sunflower, more lionsfoot, phlox and assorted other Summer flowers.
I saw featherbells too!
Reddest lily I ever saw!
Short video of lilies with pollinating butterflies
Feather bells! aka Betsy's mystery plant! I wandered around Cowee Bald a little while. I had another trail I wanted to hike and trash still to pick up AND a 2 hour drive home facing me. I made myself head back down the mountain toward the next trail. I had found a trail way back in the early days of hunting for the waterfall. I had hiked it before twice out so far and then turned back. I had viewed it on Google Earth satellite view many years ago, but after I had hiked it. I thought according to what I had seen that it went down to a level, flat area and dead ended. I hiked it today and could see that this trail is being traveled! It is in better shape by far than the trail to the top of the falls. I kept going and figured out I had hiked well past where I believed it would dead end. I turned and headed back. I saw one turn off in the direction of the main road. I also went down far enough to know it must come out in the general vicinity of the base of the falls but to the side of it. I re checked the satellite view and found that it does come out near the bottom, but far enough to one side to not be necessarily a good alternate plan. More recon needed! I was growing tired and not wanting to have to drive home. I also did not want to deal with that trash, but I made myself. I used one grocery sack as a glove and bagged 30 gallons of garbage. I double bagged it so it would not stink or run in my vehicle. All the way home I was wondering if a bee or wasp or ants were going to end up in my jeep with me. I was fortunate not to have any passengers go home with me. I am planning a return trip to finish the pick up and maintenance.
Traysh! Plenty OF IT! P.U. I made my way slowly home. I stopped along Newfound Gap road a couple times to enjoy the view and stretch. It helped pep me up for the rest of the trip. I had a glorious day getting caught up with Alarka and all the treasures that it revealed to me. Like a friend whispering sweet secrets in my ears. I won't discount anything from now on.
Blue bird day from Newfound Gap Road out across the Great Smoky Mountains.
Peach bells of Michigan lily. What a true North Carolina Treasure! Lilium michiganense is a subspecies of Turks Cap lilies. They can grow as far south as Georgia, but to my knowlege they are unreported as having a representative population in North Carolina. I have reached out to the Nantahala National Forest to learn if they were aware of this. **Note to Self** The trail I started off on from Wesser Gap appears to go toward what must surely be the headwaters of Alarka Creek. I must return with Kenny and the GPS and hike it through to that point to see what that is like. *Note #2 to Self** From now on keep my findings to myself and my closest, trusted pals and leave the gummint and the pros out of this. My intentions to help are met with a shit storm of cosmic proportions thus harshing my mellow. No good deed goes unpunished.
I had been promising to take Michael to do some fun activities just the two of us.
Tuesday we left home and planned to play for a couple days. We headed toAsheville's Fun Depot first. We got there at 11:30 am and stayed until 4:30 pm. For $36 we played all day for both of us.
We rode indoor go karts, played mini golf, we played duck pin bowling, air hockey, skee ball, various other games to win prizes. They have an indoor Adventure Express for kids. It has two bouncy houses and two indoor playgrounds and plenty of space to run around. It is all day fun. Michael spent an hour or more doing that. We also had a scavenger hunt with the staff there to find various sea creatures and animals. We ate pizza there. We had slushes there. It was great fun.
Once Michael was ready to cash in his tickets for prizes we got in the jeep and headed to Pisgah Forest to our hotel. I did not take any photos at Fun Depot. I wanted to play not be the photographer.
We headed down the interstate toward Pisgah Forest. We hadn't gotten far when the backseat got quiet. I stole a glance in my rearview mirror to see a Michael taking a nap. He was exhausted.
We checked into our room at Hampton Inn Pisgah Forest. It was very nice. We relaxed for about an hour while he watched cartoons. We next went by K-mart in Brevard where we looked at toys and I got a few things I needed for the house. We had dinner at Bojangles and went back to the hotel.
We let our dinner settle for a little bit. We then changed into our swimming clothes and went to the pool. We swam until it got dark. I'd say a little more than an hour. We were tired.
We went back to the room and got ready for bed and all dried off. We watched The Flash on tv and turned in by 10 pm. The lights couldn't have been off more than a minute after bedtime prayers and Michael was asleep. He had played hard and was worn out. I was pretty tired myself.
The next morning I woke at 4:30 am with my back hurting. I got up and moved around. I repositioned myself. I tried various things to get it to stop. I think I slept in a twist on that hotel mattress. I had nothing with me for pain except children's Tylenol. Finally in desperation I read how many milligrams per teaspoon and dosed myself with enough to equal two regular strength adult tablets. I understood after taking it why my grandchildren cry when I offer it to them for pain or fever. It is horrible tasting. I lay back down and finally got some more sleep and some relief.
We packed up once we were awake. We took our things down to the jeep.
Michael liked working the key card, running the elevator, and pushing the luggage rack. He is great help. He is getting so big. Once we had our gear stowed and our hotel key returned we sat down to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. It was complimentary, but wow! This hotel puts out quite a spread. We eat light but satisfying and get going.
The plan today was to go to Silvermont Park. Once the toy store opens at 10 am we'll go there as our next stop. We thought we'd shop and eat lunch. After lunch we'd go to see a few waterfalls and Sliding Rock. The park was great, and we had no trouble finding it.
Michael and some other children on the new playground.
Michael with new toy.
They just completed the children's playground the first week of July. It is brand spanking new.
Michael played there for about 45 minutes with me and the other children. I checked out the grounds and gardens just giving them a quick once over. It is very nice. Basketball courts, tennis courts, new playground, picnic pavilion, nature trail, and mansion. It is open as the senior center. It is open as an event center. You can rent the grounds for events.
Michael sharing his new toys with a new friend!
Silvermont Mansion is open to the public.
We headed toward the toy store a few minutes before 10 am. I had a snafu with my TomTom navigation device. It had me going in circles for about fifteen minutes. Finally I got it straightened out and heading us the proper way. Michael says I need to fire Babala that she gives me bad advice!
Finally we arrived in downtown Brevard and got to park right by the O.P. Taylor's Toy Store. I had not realized how big this place was! It has seven rooms filled with toys. It is set up for play.
Michael enjoyed it and so did I. He got to race slot cars with other little boys. He got chased around the store by a remote control R2D2 and got to shoot him with a pop gun! He used his money plus a little from Nanny to buy Miles from Tomorrowland! O.P. Taylor's Toys
I bought Tessa some things for her birthday which is coming up in September.
I also went to Local Color as my next stop for the place I wanted to check out.
I really liked it. They have many cool things to look at and buy. I purchased a new paper star light
and a piece of artwork. We headed out with our purchases.
We had lunch at Wendy's and then headed up to Pisgah Forest to see waterfalls.
Babala began giving me bad advice again. Michael looked sleepy. I felt wrung out.
I pulled over and asked him what he was thinking? He said he was ready to go home.
He wanted to get back to Nanny's house in time to show Diesel his toys and play there awhile before Mommy came to pick him up. So that is what we did. No waterfalls this trip and no hiking.
We'd both had enough. We had a 2 1/2 hour drive home to face. We headed down the highway
stopping briefly at Ingles to put gasoline in the jeep and some Starbuck's coffee in Nanny.
I had a great time and I hope we can do it again. We need to take a family trip back this way and bring Tessa so she can experience Fun Depot and O.P. Taylor's also!
Michael and Big Bear outside the toy store.
I guess dog's need toys too!
Local Color was two stores down. Beautiful Brevard!
