Buttonbush growing in Byrd Creek.
It is a good pollinator plant for bees and butterflies.
It is a good pollinator plant for bees and butterflies.
Cumberland Homesteads and Hinch Mountain
Dana Koogler
Sunday July 14, 2019
and Monday July 22, 2019
and Monday July 22, 2019
Hinch Mountain Pix starting with frame #202
A couple Summers back I was listening to my cousin Stephen Bradley talk about our family and looking at old photos with him. We went from there out to dinner and as we sat outdoors waiting on our table the conversation continued. He is also a history buff. He remarked how the Civil War affected our grandparents and the circumstances that lead to our ancestors being desperately impoverished despite being very hard working, smart people. All our kin come from various levels of rural poverty. It is this fact I am certain that causes me to identify very strongly with the people of the plateau and the homesteaders.
Beautiful embroidery work in the museum . I grew up with great grannies and grandmothers, my own mom doing embroidery like this and using stuff embellished this way. I learned to do it myself.
I still do it, but not often. It is a true art.
I tend to think first of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt when I think of the New Deal.
He took office in 1933 and quickly set about doing all he could to improve the economy and the fortunes of Americans. Our nation was mired deeply in the throes of the Great Depression.
While most of my family would have been so poor they'd not have noticed as much about the stock market crash there is no escaping the fact that the economic downturn effected ALL Americans.
I was more surprised to learn First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt had a hand in this project. She had a heart for helping others. She formed a friendship with Clarence Pickett who was head of the American Friends Service Committee. She had great admiration for this man and the Friends Society (Quakers) because they followed Christ's example and put others before themselves. They refused to debate theological issues and instead focused on putting their faith into action through good works. It is an example of one time the government and a religious organization worked together for the benefit of all. It was not without its failings, but it was still better than many things that had been tried up until then. Work programs and subsistence farming projects still helped our nation mend. Other names of Quakers who participated in the program assisting the people of the plateau were Harry Wellons and his wife. Homer Morris is another I can recall.
Someone recently asked me how I became interested in the Cumberland Plateau? I had to think on it a minute, but quickly realized how and why. I was always a fan of rural life, history, nature and drama. My favorite shows on television or movies were Davy Crockett and Dan'l Boone! It stood to reason that the kid who loved the woods, history and the colorful characters and stories would find the plateau irresistible. I had recently learned that my great grandmother was Quaker. I had a grandfather who was a CCC stone mason. My dad worked in the YCC. All these factors really
added up pushing me to want to revisit the Cumberland Homesteads. It was the most successful of all the work projects of the New Deal Era.
added up pushing me to want to revisit the Cumberland Homesteads. It was the most successful of all the work projects of the New Deal Era.
A couple Summers back I was listening to my cousin Stephen Bradley talk about our family and looking at old photos with him. We went from there out to dinner and as we sat outdoors waiting on our table the conversation continued. He is also a history buff. He remarked how the Civil War affected our grandparents and the circumstances that lead to our ancestors being desperately impoverished despite being very hard working, smart people. All our kin come from various levels of rural poverty. It is this fact I am certain that causes me to identify very strongly with the people of the plateau and the homesteaders.
Beautiful embroidery work in the museum . I grew up with great grannies and grandmothers, my own mom doing embroidery like this and using stuff embellished this way. I learned to do it myself.
I still do it, but not often. It is a true art.
I tend to think first of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt when I think of the New Deal.
He took office in 1933 and quickly set about doing all he could to improve the economy and the fortunes of Americans. Our nation was mired deeply in the throes of the Great Depression.
While most of my family would have been so poor they'd not have noticed as much about the stock market crash there is no escaping the fact that the economic downturn effected ALL Americans.
I was more surprised to learn First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt had a hand in this project. She had a heart for helping others. She formed a friendship with Clarence Pickett who was head of the American Friends Service Committee. She had great admiration for this man and the Friends Society (Quakers) because they followed Christ's example and put others before themselves. They refused to debate theological issues and instead focused on putting their faith into action through good works. It is an example of one time the government and a religious organization worked together for the benefit of all. It was not without its failings, but it was still better than many things that had been tried up until then. Work programs and subsistence farming projects still helped our nation mend. Other names of Quakers who participated in the program assisting the people of the plateau were Harry Wellons and his wife. Homer Morris is another I can recall.
FDR and the New Deal... badly needed for the plateau. The folks out here were already in deep trouble even before the Great Depression which only made things worse for them. One of the things I learned just listening to the presentation was how impossible the situation was for these people. Not only one family or a few in trouble, but the whole nation so messed up that there was no way to get a leg up. They were considered "stranded" and essentially they were without intervention of some kind.
Above: First lady Eleanor Roosevelt-- this woman had a heart of pure gold.
I ordered books on the Cumberland Plateau and its history, stories and people.
I began reading all I could find online and in those books. I visited the Homesteads on a Sunday, but tried to cram too much into the day. My plan was to go see some bridges, go to Hinch Mountain to see if I could find some flowers and do some hiking. I would then double back and take tours of the Tower and house museum from 1 pm to 5 pm. I was also going to visit the Cumberland Mountain State Park. I dropped by the state park to find it packed wall to wall with people. I did finally find a place to park and visited the historic dam.
Above: I am standing down below the arch dam that spans Byrd Creek and forms Byrd Lake at Cumberland Mountain State Park. Below is a short video of it.
I wasn't in the mood for the crush of people so I headed out to Hinch Mountain. I spent so much time lollygagging in the mountains and four wheeling I missed the time for touring. I was proud I had the courage to visit that area by myself. I did not find the flowers I hoped to, but I had a good time anyhow and saw only two other people all day there. I saw the Deep Draw Bridge
and the Old Mail Road Bridge. I drove round and checked out some of the homesteads houses.
Above: Deep Draw Bridge is just one of several CCC era bridges constructed from native stone. It is a work of art. It is around eighty six years old!
Finally worn out and realizing the late hour I headed home. I'd have to come back next week.
I returned the next Monday to finish up my tour. I stopped by the Homesteads Tower for a tour.
I got there about 10:30 a.m. and I was the only person there the entire time. It was really nice. I listened intently to the historical presentation they played for me. It settled for me whether the Homesteads Project was a failure or a success. Nearly all the families and their descendants who commented on it considered it a rousing success and were happy about it. That to me is the final word on the matter. History tends to debate things in hindsight. I've been guilty of it, but this to me is a non issue now. I later talked to manager Kelly Cox who is herself a grandchild of homesteaders! She was pointing out that of two thousand applications only two hundred fifty were accepted. It would be interesting to find out what became of the other one thousand seven hundred and fifty families who were NOT accepted into the program. I hope they fared as well.
Above: Front view of the Manor House that I've learned was NOT part of the homesteads.
Below: The rear of the house. It was magnificent in its day and is intriguing and beautiful in its own way today. private property of Oak Lawn Farms, but visible from SR 70.
I enjoyed seeing all the historical tools and displays of 1930s memorabilia and household items in the museum at the Tower. I climbed the tower and took in the view from the top. It was the water tower for the project. The tank and the plumbing is still inside it! The woodwork inside the tower is damaged by graffiti artists carving their names, but it is still very pretty. The view from the top is pretty good! I could look across at the current Crossville water tower. Down across the road I could see the high school and elementary school.
Above: Exterior of the Homesteads Tower. It was the water tower up top and offices in the bottom.
Below is a short video of what it is like walking up the tower and the view from the top.
You can see inside it the water tank and plumbing.
I walked downstairs to the gift shop and looked around at all the pretty items they have for sale.
They try to sell items from local artists and crafts people. I bought me a t shirt that says Homesteads Tower and that I climbed it. Kelly gave me my ticket for the house museum tour. She is a fascinating person to talk to. She is writing a book that will codify the original homesteads house addresses with the current 9-1-1 addresses of today. It can be difficult for descendants of the homesteaders to back track to visit the old places with the new modern changes.
Looking out the wooden room at the top of the tower
You can see the current Crossville water tower! Nowhere near as attractive.
Inside the tower.. the tank and the plumbing. This photo shows the curved surface a little more.
Above and below: Lots of different wares to choose from in the gift shop of the tower. Much of it made by local crafts men and women.
She was able to answer my questions about the Manor House I saw along Hwy 70.
It is not part of the original homesteads project. It is simply built of Crab Orchard stone like the old houses. It seemed to me far too elaborate a structure to have been built back in the 1930s. It is the
Will-Nell farm I think is what the original name was.
She echoed what I learned from Ron Inman and his knowledgeable friend. It was a private residence, a boys home, a night club, dining establishment, event venue and most recently a Halloween haunted house spot. She said the Kemmer family had owned it as long as she knew of it. They lost a son two or three weeks ago in an accident which was a tragedy. My heart goes out to them. They constructed a stage and some event things that were dedicated to his memory.
I concluded my visit at the Tower Museum and said my good-byes to Kelly. I had about half hour before the Homesteads House Museum would open for a tour. I grabbed something to drink and a snack. I walked round the outside of the property and took some photos of the outside.
I had time to do a little reading. The view out here in this part of the country certainly is pretty.
It is a quiet, pastoral community. It would be a great place to live now. I'm sure it was a good place to live back then.
Above: I am approaching the Old Mail Road Arch Bridge
Above: Looking at the intricate design of the Old Mail Road Bridge underside
Above: What a pretty scene of quiet Summer beauty.. Old Mail Road Bridge.
A blue pickup truck pulled into the parking lot and a lady got out and opened the door to the house. I gave her a few moments to get settled before going in. Her name was Sue and she is the docent of the museum. She did a fine job of touring me around the place. She is the kind of person who I quickly felt I had known her all my life. She is easy going, knowledgeable and fun to chat with. She is full of stories of things from the past as well as funny anecdotes about things that have happened during her tenure. She explained to me the workings of the houses and their set up.
I was the only person there, but she did not do any less a great job for having an audience of only one. I was able to go through the entire house and see all of it. Nothing is off limits. It is a quaint place and I really enjoyed how pretty it was. These were snug and tidy little homes. She put it best. "It is a happy little house." Indeed it seemed to be.
Above and below Homesteads House Museum
I realized from touring the home how many items from my childhood were 1930s furnishings!
Our den furniture, my bedroom furniture was all of that era! My bedroom suite was nearly identical to the one they had on display. I am a very sentimental person about old things that have a story.
Quilts, clothing, toys, dishes, art. They had some of all of that and more.
above and below Kitchen of the homesteads house museum. Decorated and furnished authentically.
Above and below. One of the upstairs bedrooms in the house.
I love the woodwork in these homes. It is so cozy. I would not have liked dusting it or trying to keep it shining.
I went in at 1:00 pm and when I left it was 3:30! Two and a half hours had flown by like mere minutes! Sue gave me some instructions on how I could take a driving tour from the house to see more of the homesteads properties. I had learned from her that a lot of the folks living in those homes don't care for photographs being taken so I did not tempt fate.
I am including here information on how to visit these neat places for anyone else who may be interested. I drove home with a head full of ideas and answers and beautiful images of time spent in the country. I went to bed early enough to read for about forty five minutes. I read about Dr. May Cravath Wharton of Pleasant Hill TN and the Pioneer Academy. Now I have yet another place I am interested in and want to visit! How many times I have driven past that place and not ever ventured in. I am going to correct that. I also found out there is an amazing Garden Center in Pleasant Hill and I want to go there too. I know there are a couple waterfalls in that area I have not seen that I can fit into a day. The rewards of learning more about the history of this special place have been many!
Homesteads House Museum Info Here
House Museum is located 2 miles from the tower
Address is 2611 Pigeon Ridge Road Crossville
House Museum is Open Mon. thru Sat. 1 – 5 p.m. (April through Oct.) Admission is $2 for adults, $1 for children ages 6 – 12 Children under 6 (with an adult) and
Above: First lady Eleanor Roosevelt-- this woman had a heart of pure gold.
I ordered books on the Cumberland Plateau and its history, stories and people.
I began reading all I could find online and in those books. I visited the Homesteads on a Sunday, but tried to cram too much into the day. My plan was to go see some bridges, go to Hinch Mountain to see if I could find some flowers and do some hiking. I would then double back and take tours of the Tower and house museum from 1 pm to 5 pm. I was also going to visit the Cumberland Mountain State Park. I dropped by the state park to find it packed wall to wall with people. I did finally find a place to park and visited the historic dam.
Above: I am standing down below the arch dam that spans Byrd Creek and forms Byrd Lake at Cumberland Mountain State Park. Below is a short video of it.
I wasn't in the mood for the crush of people so I headed out to Hinch Mountain. I spent so much time lollygagging in the mountains and four wheeling I missed the time for touring. I was proud I had the courage to visit that area by myself. I did not find the flowers I hoped to, but I had a good time anyhow and saw only two other people all day there. I saw the Deep Draw Bridge
and the Old Mail Road Bridge. I drove round and checked out some of the homesteads houses.
Finally worn out and realizing the late hour I headed home. I'd have to come back next week.
I returned the next Monday to finish up my tour. I stopped by the Homesteads Tower for a tour.
I got there about 10:30 a.m. and I was the only person there the entire time. It was really nice. I listened intently to the historical presentation they played for me. It settled for me whether the Homesteads Project was a failure or a success. Nearly all the families and their descendants who commented on it considered it a rousing success and were happy about it. That to me is the final word on the matter. History tends to debate things in hindsight. I've been guilty of it, but this to me is a non issue now. I later talked to manager Kelly Cox who is herself a grandchild of homesteaders! She was pointing out that of two thousand applications only two hundred fifty were accepted. It would be interesting to find out what became of the other one thousand seven hundred and fifty families who were NOT accepted into the program. I hope they fared as well.
Below: The rear of the house. It was magnificent in its day and is intriguing and beautiful in its own way today. private property of Oak Lawn Farms, but visible from SR 70.
I enjoyed seeing all the historical tools and displays of 1930s memorabilia and household items in the museum at the Tower. I climbed the tower and took in the view from the top. It was the water tower for the project. The tank and the plumbing is still inside it! The woodwork inside the tower is damaged by graffiti artists carving their names, but it is still very pretty. The view from the top is pretty good! I could look across at the current Crossville water tower. Down across the road I could see the high school and elementary school.
Below is a short video of what it is like walking up the tower and the view from the top.
You can see inside it the water tank and plumbing.
I walked downstairs to the gift shop and looked around at all the pretty items they have for sale.
They try to sell items from local artists and crafts people. I bought me a t shirt that says Homesteads Tower and that I climbed it. Kelly gave me my ticket for the house museum tour. She is a fascinating person to talk to. She is writing a book that will codify the original homesteads house addresses with the current 9-1-1 addresses of today. It can be difficult for descendants of the homesteaders to back track to visit the old places with the new modern changes.
Looking out the wooden room at the top of the tower
She was able to answer my questions about the Manor House I saw along Hwy 70.
It is not part of the original homesteads project. It is simply built of Crab Orchard stone like the old houses. It seemed to me far too elaborate a structure to have been built back in the 1930s. It is the
Will-Nell farm I think is what the original name was.
She echoed what I learned from Ron Inman and his knowledgeable friend. It was a private residence, a boys home, a night club, dining establishment, event venue and most recently a Halloween haunted house spot. She said the Kemmer family had owned it as long as she knew of it. They lost a son two or three weeks ago in an accident which was a tragedy. My heart goes out to them. They constructed a stage and some event things that were dedicated to his memory.
I concluded my visit at the Tower Museum and said my good-byes to Kelly. I had about half hour before the Homesteads House Museum would open for a tour. I grabbed something to drink and a snack. I walked round the outside of the property and took some photos of the outside.
I had time to do a little reading. The view out here in this part of the country certainly is pretty.
It is a quiet, pastoral community. It would be a great place to live now. I'm sure it was a good place to live back then.
A blue pickup truck pulled into the parking lot and a lady got out and opened the door to the house. I gave her a few moments to get settled before going in. Her name was Sue and she is the docent of the museum. She did a fine job of touring me around the place. She is the kind of person who I quickly felt I had known her all my life. She is easy going, knowledgeable and fun to chat with. She is full of stories of things from the past as well as funny anecdotes about things that have happened during her tenure. She explained to me the workings of the houses and their set up.
I was the only person there, but she did not do any less a great job for having an audience of only one. I was able to go through the entire house and see all of it. Nothing is off limits. It is a quaint place and I really enjoyed how pretty it was. These were snug and tidy little homes. She put it best. "It is a happy little house." Indeed it seemed to be.
I realized from touring the home how many items from my childhood were 1930s furnishings!
Our den furniture, my bedroom furniture was all of that era! My bedroom suite was nearly identical to the one they had on display. I am a very sentimental person about old things that have a story.
Quilts, clothing, toys, dishes, art. They had some of all of that and more.
I love the woodwork in these homes. It is so cozy. I would not have liked dusting it or trying to keep it shining.
I went in at 1:00 pm and when I left it was 3:30! Two and a half hours had flown by like mere minutes! Sue gave me some instructions on how I could take a driving tour from the house to see more of the homesteads properties. I had learned from her that a lot of the folks living in those homes don't care for photographs being taken so I did not tempt fate.
I am including here information on how to visit these neat places for anyone else who may be interested. I drove home with a head full of ideas and answers and beautiful images of time spent in the country. I went to bed early enough to read for about forty five minutes. I read about Dr. May Cravath Wharton of Pleasant Hill TN and the Pioneer Academy. Now I have yet another place I am interested in and want to visit! How many times I have driven past that place and not ever ventured in. I am going to correct that. I also found out there is an amazing Garden Center in Pleasant Hill and I want to go there too. I know there are a couple waterfalls in that area I have not seen that I can fit into a day. The rewards of learning more about the history of this special place have been many!
Dates and Hours for Tower Museum
Monday – Saturday 10:00 – 5:00 Sunday 1:00 – 5:00
Monday – Saturday 10:00 – 5:00 Sunday 1:00 – 5:00
Admission For Tower Museum Only:
Adults: $4
Ages 6-12: $1
Children 5 and under: Free
Adults: $4
Ages 6-12: $1
Children 5 and under: Free
Admission For Both The Tower and House Museums:
Adults: $5
Ages 6-12: $2
Children 5 and under: Free
Tower is located at the intersection of Hwy 127 South and Hwy 68 on the corner.Adults: $5
Ages 6-12: $2
Children 5 and under: Free
Homesteads House Museum Info Here
House Museum is located 2 miles from the tower
Address is 2611 Pigeon Ridge Road Crossville
House Museum is Open Mon. thru Sat. 1 – 5 p.m. (April through Oct.) Admission is $2 for adults, $1 for children ages 6 – 12 Children under 6 (with an adult) and
C.H.T.A. Members Free
It is about 3/4 mile further south on Hwy 127 then turn right onto SR 419 at the sign for the state park.
You can see Byrd Lake and the historic dam here along with many other niceties.
I drove to Old Mail Road Bridge, but it was because I did not know I could have hiked to it from the state park. If you hike the Pioneer Loop Trail you can come to it in 2 miles one way. It is a trail that makes a loop of 4.5 to 5 miles if you hike the entire thing. Trail Map HERE
Old Mail Road Bridge Driving Directions
To drive to Old Mail Road Bridge from the state park head south on Hwy 127 for a mile and turn right onto S Old Mail Road ( Be sure to get S Old Mail Road as there is a road called "Old Mail Road" and believe me that was the wrong one!))
Drive 1.70 miles on S Old Mail Road and you will cross the bridge just after a curve in the road.
To safely view the bridge and walk around it park just past the bridge at a pull off on the left.
Driving Directions for Deep Draw Bridge
From the intersection of Hwy 101 and SR 70 East drive 4 miles east on Rt 70
Turn RIGHT onto Deep Draw Road and go about 1/2 mile to where Deep Draw Bridge crosses Byrd Creek. There is room on the near side of the bridge to pull over and park about one car
very poorly. It is also right beside a posted private driveway. I got out and snapped a few pictures and walked down to the creek to get a shot from there and got going. It looks like this spot gets visited some as there is a worn path down to the creek bank. I turned around and left the way I came, but you could potentially stay on Deep Draw Road and come out on Hwy 68 (Wassom Memorial Hwy) right next to the Homesteads Methodist Church.
Below is a short video of the lovely Old Mail Road Bridge
Thanks so much for sharing your journey. The next time I visit family in Cookeville I am definitely going to see the area. Thanks again for your time and personal expressions to educate many of us interested Facebook followers of Cumberland Homesteads. Enjoy your Pleasant Hill journey!!
ReplyDeleteOops, I am Grady Allison
DeleteGrady Allison, Thanks for introducing yourself and for taking time to read and comment. It is most encouraging and welcome. Do stop in and get to know this place and the lovely, wise ladies who work there. You will be glad you did. I know I am. I made two friends as well as educated myself. I know my grandparents are looking down from Heaven and are proud I have not forgotten where I came from and what type people I belong to.
DeleteHey Dana! I really enjoyed your visit to the Tower Museum. Thank you for such wonderful writings about your time. I hope you come back soon!
ReplyDeleteKelly Cox
Thank you for being so kind to me. What an interesting and cheerful person you are. All your hard work to keep the place up and going is most appreciated. Your grandparents and ancestors would be proud I am sure. I have gotten some nice comments on the blog entry. I hope it generates interest in folks coming to visit. Can't hurt!
DeleteThe Will-Nell/Oaklawn manor house has now been restored and just opened. It was actually built in the mid 1930s by a man born in Cumberland Co who went to Chicago, worked in politics and became Chicago purchasing agent. He returned and built the house, the Palace Theatre and the building that houses Highland Federal S&L. He liked Crab Orchard Stone. William Garrison called Dollar Bill as he left Crossville in the early 1900s with a dollar and returned wealthy.
ReplyDeleteThat is an awesome little bit of history right there! Thank you for sharing the info. I want to go see this! Sorry to be so long responding. Today is the first day I've awakened feeling like the old, strong, healthy me! I made a big leap forward yesterday in physical therapy. It is the harbinger of great things to come!
Delete