Starr Mountain Botanizing 2020

Phlox paniculata-- cultivar Reine du Jour

growing at the Vaughn-Webb house in Reliance. 

The name translates "Queen of the Day"

Starr Mountain Botanizing

Dana Koogler 

Saturday August 1, 2020

Pictures are here: 

Hiwassee River Pix

Starr Mountain Pix

Mausoleum in a Cow Pasture Pix 

  I had a long list of things I wanted to do and see on this trip. 

I have been doing this to know a couple things hold true.  

• Things often don't go to plan
• Have backup plans for my backup plans
• I am often unrealistically ambitious. I seldom get it all done and seen.
• I have come to expect something weird to happen on most trips

  I won't launch into what I thought I was going to do today.  I will simply say I set out on my journey and started and did all I could make fit. 

Reliance 

    One of the first stops on my trip was to Reliance, Tennessee. We were there for a family cookout and paddle down the river back on Fathers Day weekend.
It drove me crazy seeing all the photo opportunities missed.  I had never really done what I always wanted to do. I wanted to get out and make some images of the historic buildings and beautiful scenery.  I recently became aware that some of the places I was avoiding because I believed them private property were actually ok to visit.   The Vaughn Webb house was one.  Another was the Hiwassee Meeting House.

    I drove down and turned onto the cut across road.. highway 30 into Reliance from Delano and Highway 411.  It is a beautiful drive full of rural scenery, abandoned and interesting old houses and barns.   Quinn Springs picnic area was first simply to make a pit stop.  I am happy to report the restrooms are once again open as is the picnic pavilion.   Hiwassee Picnic area down the road a short distance also open and has vault toilets.   I pulled over at the Vaughn-Webb House driveway.  I think they are renting this house out now as a guest house.

  Above: Looking at the back of the tool shed at the Vaughn-Webb house.

    I saw no one at the house so I strolled around and got shots of everything I'd always hoped to from various angles.   It certainly is a beautiful place.  The family was and is part of the fabric of the community.   It is one of those old style "gingerbread" Victorian era homes.
Below: a view of the front of the house. It sits so close to the road you have to go across Hwy 30 to be back far enough to get a photograph of the front.



Below: a profile shot of the front of the house. Porch up top and down below!

Above: SR 30 runs from Delano through Reliance and on toward Greasy Creek then comes out down on Highway 64 across from the Ocoee.  It is a beautiful drive. 


Above: I loved this scene of the old concrete stairs to the yard with the iron gate and all the flowers.

Below: a view of the barn and shed that are part of the Vaughn-Webb Farm. They sit just across the road. I can't help believing that SR 30 has widened or changed course since this home was first established. 

   
Below: off to one side of the yard at the old house was a massive patch of hydrangea and tall phlox.  Some of it heirloom!  

Above: Phlox paniculata-- an heirloom cultivar called "Bright eyes". It was my grandmothers favorite. 

Below: a view of Starr Mountain in the distance is the view from the Vaughn Webb House. 

  Next I drove on down past Webb's store.  It was busy with the usual tubers and funyak crowd.  I hope we get to do that again before the season is over.  It was hard, but it was fun.    I pulled in beside the old building I've seen many times, but never taken the trouble to really photograph.   It is one of the historic icons of this area. 

Above: the Hiwassee Union Baptist Church -- circa 1899.
The Masons lodge and the church joined forces to construct this fine building that has endured til today.   Masonic meetings held upstairs. Church meetings downstairs.  The building also served for a time as a school during the week.
Below is the marker telling the history of the structure.



  There is an area artists named Bill McDonald who painted a picture of a river baptizing in the Hiwassee that features this quaint old building.
Below is an image of his work.  It is my favorite painting of his work. I hope some day to purchase a print.  For anyone who would like to buy any of Bill's lovely paintings here is where to shop online. 

  I strolled around the grounds a bit and enjoyed the spectacular view of the Hiwassee.  The smell of the river was fresh and the air was cool this morning.   The sky was a vivid blue and the sun was shining.  The water of the river was shimmering and clear like a liquid mirror.   It is is a special place for sure.

 Above: view of the Hiwassee River framed by Summer flowers. The bridge in the distance.

 Above: In the distance the railroad bridge crosses the Hiwassee. It is an active line meaning it is still used from time to time by trains.

 The pebbly bottom of the river in the shallows behind the old meeting house

View of the mountains and the river and bridge minus the flowers.

    Once I was satisfied with my picture taking I headed back to my jeep.
I put my camera gear aside. I had planned on next driving down Ellis Road toward the old community of Probst.  I have never been on that road and wanted to satisfy my curiosity as well as maybe get some photos taken.  I was on the fence as to whether to bother with this today?  Almost as if in answer to my question... a bicyclist turned down that road and peddled along. Behind him drove an SUV going at a snails pace.  I would leave this for a day during the week when I'd be a bit less likely to have company on this narrow road.  I headed onward toward Starr Mountain and the next leg of the journey.

            Starr Mountain 

  I have been visiting Starr Mountain for many years.   I liked it from the beginning.  It is far less known and visited than many other areas.  It stands above all the surrounding terrain.. a long narrow mountain like a flat topped plateau.  It has lots of history.   It is named for Caleb Starr who came to the area as a settler in 1775.  He was a white man. A Quaker from Pennsylvania originally.   For anyone who is unfamiliar with Quakers... they are a "peace church". They are Christians and do not believe in taking up arms or killing. 
There are other differences in their worship practices, but this is one of the more pertinent.   He has a long, storied history, but he was a friend to the Cherokees and was a successful man.   He eventually married a granddaughter of beloved woman Nancy Ward, Nannie.  She was half white and half Cherokee.
They had fourteen children with all but two of them surviving to adulthood.
Through a series of events he and his family ended up moving west on the Trail of Tears leaving behind his 640 acre plantation in the Conasauga Valley at the base of Starr's Mountain.   A writer who details his history remarked that for a time he may have been buried in an unmarked grave out west. I know from further reading and a photograph his grave is now marked.  Despite all of that Starr Mountain is a twenty mile long lasting monument to his life.
You can read more details of Caleb Starr's history here


   

  The roads up Starr Mountain are remote and often rough.   It has many trails taking off in various directions.  It is part of the Cherokee National Forest southern portion.  It is also part of the Cherokee Wildlife Management Area.
It is to me a geological oddity.  It sits above all the lowlands making me wonder if at one time it was connected to any other formations? Was it at one time an island surrounded by water?  The sandstone of the mountain , the shape of it, and the assortment of plant life.. some of it more like what you'd see in the Piedmont or coastal plain. 

   Below is a photo of a yellow fringed orchid close up. I saw lots of these today. 


Loomis Mountain Mint was abundant along the roadsides



I saw the first rose gentian I've seen this season.


I saw another flower I was hunting for.. Carolina Lily



Carolina lilies tend to have less blooms per plant, are generally smaller in size, and the bloom of these has no green center star.  That is how you can differentiate them from turks cap lilies which are more common.



Trumpet vine was another abundant, colorful roadside flower.



I saw lots of DYC's. damn  yellow composites.. usually various members of the aster family.

Below: another quiet stretch of country road on Starr Mountain

Below: I spotted a large colony of rattlesnake orchids.


below: butterfly weed was seen along the roads frequently.  It is easy to spot with its bright orange blooms.

  I stopped and walked out onto a nice rock outcrop. It was a pretty spot, but it did not have a view.   It is worth mentioning that the other outcrop similar to this further around the mountain.. White Cliffs that overlooks Rural Vale.. is now gated off and heavily signed Private Property, No Trespassing, You're on Camera, etc.  I don't know who owns it, but I bet they got tired of folks driving up there and trashing the place.  It is a stones throw from the main road and walking up to the overlook simple enough, but some folks just won't do that.

They also had the nasty habit of building fires and littering.

  Today's drive up the mountain was enjoyable, but not as much fun as last year with my buddy, Greg Evans.   The drive today seemed very monotonous with nobody to talk to.   I listened to the radio instead to pass the time.   

  I finally came to another carolina lily.  Most of them were up and in bud, but had yet to bloom out. I was kind of early for these.

I saw one bright red wand of cardinal flower today. It was the only one in bloom yet!  In years past I have waded out into the mountain's recesses to find great patches of these growing.  I was early for these too so it seemed.

Above: Cardinal Flower

Below is a huge patch of them that was taken several years ago later in the season.  Huge difference. One as opposed to many!




       Next I came to the first trouble I'd have today.   The road up to Starr Mountain as well as on the summit is rough. Always has been.  It is getting worse matter of fact.   Deeply rutted places.  During early Spring the road up top turns to mush.  It is easy to get stuck!  Today was dry enough I wasn't worried about that, but we had a wind storm Friday night.   I got to a point where I didn't have too much further to go.  A rotten, doty pine tree had fallen across the road.
I said a little prayer and got out and hoped that by breaking off branches and pushing I could move enough to get by.    It took me a little bit, but I was able to push it aside!  I was thrilled. I am strong like bull! I was thinking.   I broke back some tree branches and brush at the far side of the road and was able to squeeze past with the jeep.


above: pine tree finally pushed aside for me to be able to continue

  I pulled over at a clearing to eat lunch. It was 12:30 and I was hungry.
Once I got something to eat and drink I said another little prayer that I'd be brave enough to do what came next.  I was going to have to hike out into the brush to continue hunting flowers.    I went round to the back of the jeep and opened the hatch. I set all my gear out and put my keys in my backpack.  I donned my brand new snake gaiters.   I sprayed myself down with Deep Woods Off including my clothing and the gaiters.  I got my hiking poles in case I had to have them to push any snakes aside and encourage them to move along.    I got my backpack on and headed into the woods.

     I had a feeling I was not going to find what I was looking for in bloom.  I was obviously too early based on the bloom I found on the lilies and other flowers. No matter. I was here now and I'd go ahead.   It was as much a test of my courage as anything.    You can't see your feet in places for the vegetation is thick as hair on a dog's back.   Ferns cover the forest floor as does dog hobble, green brier, and other stuff.

Above and below: the forest floor looked like the image above for most of the way.  Below images are of the few cleared spots. Most of this is caused by water.

  I saw loads of club spur orchids today.



 I did find the orchids I was looking for, but as I suspected they were not yet in bloom.  Tightly in bud. All of them.  Monkey Face orchids and bog orchids not yet open.   I didn't know if I'd have the chance to return to see them in bloom this season, but I was glad I made it up here. I was even happier that for the first time ever I'd gone into this remote, weedy area solo.   I have hiked alone on Starr Mountain many a time, but not off trail before.   I made it safely in there and out without seeing the first snake.  I was elated about that.

     I came out of the woods and put my gear in the jeep.  It was hot up here now.
I noticed the wind was picking up and really starting to whip like it did Friday evening just before that wind storm.   I figured the best thing for me to do was get off this mountain while the getting was good.  All I needed was to get trapped up here by downed trees.  I had no chainsaw with me. 



A last look back at Starr Mountain's summit before I headed out.

     I decided to go down the forest service road toward Mecca Pike. It would be the speediest route off here.  One of the things I wanted to see today was just off that road anyhow.   I started down and made it about half mile before encountering more downed trees. Three of them across the road.  I got out and looked and pushed, but they would not budge.  I didn't really think I'd be able to do anything with them.  I executed about a four point turn and went back up the mountain.  I had made up my mind when finding the first downed tree  if I encountered anything more that impeded my travel I would take it as a sign from above and get off the mountain.   Here was my sign.  I had to decide now whether to attempt going down via Bullet Creek road or return the way I'd come going all the way past Servilla church and back to Reliance?  Bullett Creek Road has more people along it and is far more traveled so I figured on that as my exit route.    I would at least try it.

         
   Above: I stopped to photograph Yellow Creek at the campsite. It was real pretty, but the water levels were very low.




   As luck would have it the road was open all the way. I was very glad to get back out where I was seeing houses and vehicles and people!  The wind laid and I was happy to see that whatever weather was brewing was now settled and gone.

Above: an abandoned store along the Tellico-Reliance Road
     I looked at the clock and it was getting later than I'd expected.  It was already 2:30 p.m.  I decided rather than run myself ragged I'd gradually head home.  I had a feeling the change of route meant something.   It sometimes turns out providential for me.    The drive out through Rural Vale was scenic and uneventful.    I made my turn onto route 39..  Mecca Pike.. and lo and behold in the cow pasture to my left was a strange sight.. a ruined mausoleum sitting in the field!  It couldn't be!  It was an Amanda Gamble style find!  I knew from one of Amanda's writings this was a neat spot. It was the mausoleum of Dr. and Mrs. John Leonard.    He was a medical doctor who practiced in the Tellico Plains area long ago.  He retired and after he passed his wishes were to be buried out in the country with the epithet something to the effect he just wanted to be left alone!
His wife passed on and was interred with him in the mausoleum.  By the time she was placed in there the mausoleum had settled and was slightly damaged from it.   It was a fancy, very expensive affair made of marble!   Later grave robbers broke in and desecrated the burial place as well as the corpse of Mrs. Eliza Leonard.    I can't tell it like Amanda can so rather than butcher it I am going to include it here.  She is a talented young lady explorer, writer, story teller, historian and photographer in the footsteps of her dad, Paul Gamble!



Above: First glimpse of the old mausoleum in the cow field.

  Below is Amanda's story of the mausoleum and the legend of the events that transpired as only she can tell them.

Amanda Gamble

July 16, 2017 · 

As you’re driving through the small rural community of Brown Hill, which is located off Mecca Pike near Tellico Plains, Tennessee, you will catch a glimpse of a rather odd sight, one that sticks out like a sore thumb. Standing in the middle of a cow pasture lies a ruined mausoleum, one whose very existence inspired many bizarre local legends in an attempt to explain its being in such a strange place. For many years, the building was hidden away from prying eyes by dense overgrowth that had overtaken the small burial site, perhaps fulfilling the final wish of the old country doctor whose remains lie within.

“Leave me alone.” That was the final epitaph etched into the marble door that had been placed over the front entrance of the tomb Dr. John R. Leonard and his wife, Eliza. The epitaph’s bears somewhat of a dark sense of irony. Despite resting in peace not too far away from the ruins of their home for many decades, their eternal rest was interrupted when a group of grave robbers came into the mausoleum in search of jewelry and other valuables to steal in August of 1976. In their frustration, they vandalized the tomb, destroying the glass cover that was placed over the top half of Eliza’s casket, which lay on the floor. It has been said that her body was removed and tossed into the Hiwassee River in Polk county, where it had remained for many years before it was found. In an article written by the current Sheriff of McMinn County, Joe Guy, the body was found, but unfortunately, it had long been dismembered. Mistaking it as a possible murder victim, the local police department had enlisted the help of Dr. Bass from the infamous Body Farm at the forensics department at the University of Tennessee in Knoxville. After performing several tests, it was determined that the remains belonged to a woman who died almost a century before.

John and Eliza’s tomb were both said to be a rather unique final resting place. On John’s casket was a marble slab that read, “Dr. John R. Leonard, born September 11, 1834. Died at 1:30 AM, Tuesday, December 10, 1907.” This is one of the rare instances in which the exact time of death and even the day has been inscribed on a grave marker in this area. Eliza’s marker included her date of birth, which was December 25, 1846. For unknown reasons, her date of death was not added. It is estimated that she died between 1919 and 1921. On the right hand side of the crypt is inscribed, “In God We Trust” near her casket.

Dr. John R. Leonard was described as being a fellow who was both larger than life and fiercely dedicated to taking care of his patients. Some say that he often stayed with a patient for three days, doing everything he could to take care of them and ensure their recovery. This is a far cry from the absurd urban legend that claims Dr. Leonard was a mad scientist who performed cruel experiments on patients.

He also served in the Union Army during the Civil War and acted as a surgeon. It is said that he one of the first country doctors to perform autopsies. Further research shows that because he and his wife were unable to have children, they had adopted a boy to raise as their own son. I’ve not been able to figure out what his name was, but I’ve heard that he was buried with them in the mausoleum. Following the vandalism that had taken place in 1976, the marble slab that had been placed over the front entrance had been repaired and sealed shut by the Brown Hill Masons around 1977, granting Dr. Leonard’s final request of “Leave Me Alone”. 40 years later in 2017, we drove past the mausoleum and found it in a pitiful state of decay. The roof appears to have caved in years ago and there are cracks in the stone walls.

The property was eventually purchased by the Peals family, where they had lived for over 50 years. Mrs. Ellen Peals and her husband, Joseph Columbus, lived in the Leonard house with their 13 children. When they bought the property, they weren’t expecting to inherit the mausoleum that stood 40 feet away from their house. Because they were of no relation to the Leonards, the Peals weren’t too sure on what could be done with the graves, but ultimately decided to leave them as they were. After Mrs. Peals died in 1980, the old house was eventually torn down, leaving only the overgrown remains behind.

  If you ever get the chance to read anymore of her stories or watch her videos or photos you should. She's an interesting person as is her father.  I'm sure he's very proud of her. I would be!   

Below are a few more shots of the mausoleum

The headstone inscribed for Dr. Leonard. Sad that this has been damaged, desecrated and allowed to decay so badly.   I imagine the bodies were reinterred someplace safe and on consecrated ground.  

  

    I was pleased to have had the good fortune to get to see this local legend for myself.   I felt like it was as good a stopping place for my travels today as any.  I made my way home with a head full of things to ponder.

Above: this is the foundation of something.. possibly the Peal's residence or maybe some old outbuilding.