Friday, March 12, 2021

Ballplay Falls Early Spring 2021

Trout lilies were already in bloom along the path 


Ballplay Falls Early Spring 2021

 Thursday March 4, 2021

Dana Koogler solo


Photos are here:  Ballplay Pix 


  I decided it was time to visit one of my favorite waterfalls of all time so I headed down to old familiar territory in Monroe County.  I did things differently this time.  I planned a different route to get there.   I have grown familiar enough with the area I believed I could get there via the Ballplay Road in Madisonville.  I figured it would be different scenery and a pretty drive.   It would also be a little quicker.  I wanted to keep a look out for additional scenery to photograph.  I wanted to make a stop by the Ballplay Spring which I had not done before.   

     

    I enjoyed the drive and the varied scenery. It was a faster route to the falls for me coming from Walland.   I saw lots of places and abandoned houses I wanted to photograph.  Some I was able to get and some I did not.  The problem with doing this when you are the one driving is you are upon a place before you can figure where to pull over safely to park.   I did not want to cause a fender bender or hold up traffic.    The up side is that I made mental notes on the locations and possible parking spots nearby for the future.


Above: The Ballplay Spring is at the intersection of Ballplay Road with Ballplay School Road.  It sits right by the roadside near some picnic tables and what used to be a commercial business. Maybe a store?  It is right round the corner from the Ballplay Fire Department.   The water is good and cold,clean and fresh. 

      My first stop was Ballplay Spring.  I found it easily, but the down side was I arrived at the same time a gentleman had his litter pick up crew there.   I talked with him a little bit.   Super nice man.   He has not lived in the area very long. They were getting ready to take a snack break so they made use of the picnic tables there at the roadside and were getting water at the spring and what have you.  I did get a couple photos.  I did not tarry since they were there first.   Long about here I began to have my doubts over chosing this course. Would I be able to find it after all?  

The first time you drive a given way it always seems longer and more convoluted because it is unfamiliar.   I drove perhaps another mile and was back in familiar territory and knew that I was going exactly the right way and that it was a good choice.  

           I kept my speed nice and slow and steady as I grew closer and closer to the place where you park to go to the falls.   It is a residential area and a narrow, winding country road.   I saw lots of people out walking on this nice day. One lady was walking her dog.  Another man fixing to go somewhere with a weedeater.   I don't ever want to rile these people up or be disrespectful by coming flying in here.   I also wanted to enjoy the beauty of the surroundings.  

Above:  pretty green bridge over Ballplay Creek.  I actually took this photo on Saturday, but I'm adding it here to show how pretty the scenery is just driving in toward the parking place to go to the falls. 

     Soon I arrived at the old Williams place and parked.   I hoped today I'd run into Mr. Giles, the owner.  I brought him and his family some gifts for being so sweet and kind.  I hoped to get to talk with him.  I had a good day, but did not see him at all.  I had the place to myself and that was okay too.  

   Just like Courtney said... the bridge was still out.  I came prepared and donned my water shoes to ford the creek.  It was easy and not terribly cold when you are only in it a minute or so.    I sat down on the front steps to put my boots back on. 

Below:  The old Williams place and Ballplay Creek and the blown out bridge

Every visit that poor old barn sags a little more. 



 Below: I believe Amanda and Paul said this is the Harman Ray Williams homestead.   This is my favorite old house anywhere.  It is such a neat little place. I have one of my photos of it blown up to 11 x 14 size framed and on my kitchen wall.  


  I debated leaving the gifts for Mr. Giles and family on the front porch, but with no way to tell when he'd be round I decided against it.   

   I continued on with my hike once I got my boots back on.   I hiked back past the house and toward the trail.  I hadn't gone far when I began to see the first wildflowers of the season! Trout lilies!  Hepaticas.  A few star chickweed blooms, trilliums were out of the ground, but in tight bud with a ways to go yet.   I was delighted to see them and spent as much time as I wanted taking pictures.  

I even took the time to put on my macro lens and use my mini pod for better shots. 

White flowers are hard to photograph especially in sun.   The pretty green moss, ferns waking up. The smell of the damp earth and leaves under those beautiful blue skies was exactly what I needed today.    I enjoyed the sight of the forest and the smell of pine needles all around me.   

Above:  pine needles under foot in what I like to call a "Red Riding Hood Forest". 
Below:  The path to the falls is unmaintained and unofficial.  Lots of blow downs to maneuver around. This one has been here around a year. 

Above:  partial views from the path to the falls.   soooo pretty!  loving that sunshine.  

  It wasn't long until I arrived at the brink of the waterfall.  I stopped and took time to make some video here.  It was real nice.  It is a tall falls and hard to see all in one shot from the base.   I have found a way to see the upper levels safely, but I have thus far been too lazy to struggle to the spot to make use of it. I almost forgot. I did go down the slope off trail to try to find a place to see the entire thing from above.  It is not possible to get a clear view of the whole thing. 

   Below is a video of the falls from more angles than I've ever included.  I spent considerable time on this.  My frozen feet are the witness!


Above: obligatory brink of the falls shot. 

    It is worth mentioning here that I had explicit directions recently updated including photos for Ballplay Falls and had them on my blog in at least two places.  If you googled Ballplay Falls Directions it was the first and ONLY thing to come up related to the subject.   I have removed them.  It is public property .. meaning the falls sits in the Cherokee National Forest, but the only decent way to reach it for now is across private property which is not mine.   I have permission go visit.  Several people I know have permission, but I do not have the right to give permission since it isn't mine.  Additionally I am seeing lots of damage and over visitation since the corona virus hit.   People taking to the woods are not all good stewards of the places they visit.   I don't want to spoil one of my favorite places on earth.  Also I care about Mr. Giles and his opinion of me. He is a great fellow and I don't want to abuse his good graces.    

Below: a shot of a pair of trout lilies from today. 


      The trail is not maintained and many of the people who ask where something is ..... I find once they find out what is involved to get there........ they are no longer interested in going.   In order to get to the base of this falls from the way I went you have to go down through a slippery jumble of downed trees.   It is not that bad, but you have to remember who you're asking.  I came out of the woods filthy dirty and wet.   Wiped my nose on my sleeve and went on to the grocery store just ... like... that.   Last of all........ I've encountered people who are so trifling they don't even want to lift a finger to type in a few words to do a google search for the directions.   So guess what?  Directions are gone and ain't coming back!  
Work hard for it just like I did.   That'll lairn ye to get an attitude with mamaw hyere.    I admire the pluck of Courtney and her friends who took off trying to find it.  They have spirit and while they did not quite make it to the falls... they show initiative and motivation.  Two things I admire greatly.  

Below is a couple shot of the log jam you have to go over, under and around.

And that isn't the worst of it.   The worst of it I could not take photos because I was wallering on my belly under a log. It was root hog or die! 

  I  finally arrived at the base of the falls and since I was solo today I used extra care in getting down to the bottom.  I avoided the sloping, snotty slick rock and went further out to the left and worked my way back toward the falls.  
   
   The falls was surely gushing today and I was glad to be here.   Such a pretty setting.   Below are my three favorite shots of it today.  I waded the creek to the far side. I got out in the middle of the stream. I stayed back to avoid the spray.  Despite all my equipment and efforts today I still don't think these are my best pictures, but I had a good time just the same.  The bad part about a sunny day is the harsh light. I think I need to purchase a slightly stronger neutral density filter to help compensate for the bright light. 



Below the stream flows ever onward.   I located a couple cascades that "might" be where Courtney & Co ended up, but I am not sure.   I put a waypoint on it.  This may be what Paul Gamble calls Presley Falls.  I also found a side path down off the bluff that may lead much closer to it without having to come up the creek.  
Kenny says he will go with me to try it at some point.  I don't want to do that one solo.   

Ballplay Creek flows on down the mountain.   

Above: an isolation shot of the cascades below the falls.  You can see grasses growing in the stream where it dries up some in Summertime. 


   I sat down and ate lunch. I took loads of photos.  I explored.  I just wallowed in the setting and the leisure time.   I think I spent longer at the falls today than I ever have before.  I needed a day like today.   I am reclaiming my life a little bit at a time.   Trying to strike a balance between family and my own identity. Finally I tore myself away and moved on.  I had another spot I wanted to hunt up a waterfall down near Tellico Plains.  I thought today would be the day I'd find it. I had a good feeling about it.   I spent a little time on the way out photographing trout lilies that had opened since I arrived.  Below is one such. 


Sunbeams and trout lily in bloom.

  I went down to the creek level and walked up the stream. I was going to try to make myself go up the creek.  I went 0.16 miles upstream and that was enough for me.   It is not easy and I was already cold and wet from being in the creek a fair amount at the falls.    I did get a few photos of that area upstream.  Mostly I had my camera put away because I did not want to fall in and ruin it in the water. 

Below are a couple shots of Ballplay Creek up from the house

Low cascade up Ballplay Creek


Above: The stroll up Ballplay Creek isn't easy, but it is pretty.   It is a large watershed with several streams merging into one to form the main creek. 

   I spent a little time strolling round the yard and grounds taking photos of the place from different spots.  One day this is liable not to be here anymore or no longer accessible.   I just wanted to enjoy it and document it as it is now.
Below is a shot looking at the back of the house.  The porch wraps around the side. 

Below is something funny I spotted today.  A pot sitting outside on the porch. 
It looks identical to one we had at home when I was a kid.  It was what we put table scraps in. We called it the slop pot.  Valerie Graham... you need to see this!

Slop pot on the porch.  No kidding.  
Below is a photo of an assortment of things they've put up on the wall of the house.


I liked the collection of skulls, pots, axe head, metal link, and horse shoes and such.   I was told years ago by a frenemy........ that the people back here would shoot you.  That person may be out here indeed, but all the folks I've encountered have been fine people.  Maybe that's just how she got greeted.  What's coming at you is coming from you. 

     I finally sat down on the front steps again and changed into my water shoes again.  One final time for today.   I quickly made my way back to my jeep on the far side of the stream.   I tossed my gear in the vehicle and rolled out toward Tellico Plains.  It continued to be a pretty drive and I kept seeing spots I wanted to photograph.  Lots of mental notes.    
    
    I was heading toward Rafter Road and the ghost town of Mudhole to try to locate Barum Creek Falls and the old Alonzo Akins homeplace.  It is a spot I'd seen my friends Paul and Amanda photograph. It had captivated my imagination.  I wanted to figure it out myself.   I believed today would be the day.   I turned onto Rafter Road and went out to the old Mudhole Community Center shown below.



  Now I had studied the map extensively and found a spot I thought I could park to get access to the creek.   A drive on the first part of the Rafter Road will have you drawing up your sphincter.   It is crumbling like SR 85 in Overton County out at Wilder.  The ground is soft and giving way.  Part of Rafter Road is by a sheer drop off the mountainside.  The road is rimmed by orange cones, police tape, and is literally propped up with telephone poles to keep it from going on down the mountain into the gorge.  I stayed well over to the edge. I prayed I'd not meet anyone here.   I learned to drive in the mountains as a kid, but I did not like this spot.  I wish I'd taken pictures of it.   I should have. So driving here and seeing that had me convinced that it was a long way down to Barum Creek.  I would need to find a point of access that would be a gradual descent.      I turned around and went back to a side road I'd seen.    I pulled over and parked and got out.  

    I saw I was not in anyone's way.  I had room to turn around when I got ready to leave.  I snapped a few photos of daffodils I saw and set off down an old lane nearby.   It was a good way down, but very soft, muddy and squishy. 

Daffodils at an abandoned house site.  The house has been razed.  
Below is a look at my way down.. the old lane and a few old pipes covered in fuzzy green moss. 


The ground on this lane was very soft and swampy.  A small stream ran down one side of it.  

    I continued down to where I came to a field.  Along its edge flowed Barum Creek.  I had found it.  I did find manmade structures here, but not a house. Just two wood platforms that looked like someone's former big idea.  A spot for camping or a shed or some such.  


Above and below: platform on each side of the stream.  


Above: Beautiful sparkling Barum Creek. 

    I did find the stream. I found a way down to it, but alas today I did not find the falls.  I walked downstream and quickly could see and recognize exactly where I was. Barum Creek becomes a swamp as it gets closer to Smoky Run and that is what I was starting to see.   I knew I was too far downstream.  Had to be. Between me and the upper reaches lay lots of kudzu.  I had a drive home yet and a grocery store stop to make.  I figured it was time to hang it up for the day.  

   I trudged back up the hill a tiny bit discouraged that I did not find the falls and old house, but I felt like I was getting closer!  I went grocery shopping with sticks and leaves all up in my wig.  I had a hole in the seat of my pants.  I had mud and soaking wet jeans up to my knees. Muddy boots.  I waded up into Food City like that and figured I probably looked too scary for anyone to say word one to me. 

       I went home tired and happy.   It was a great day under the sun.  Later I put my photos on social media and to my delight.... my buddy Paul told me I was within 100 yards of the house and falls.   I knew what I was going to be doing Saturday!  
I couldn't have been any more tickled.  It is always fun when an adventure gives rise to the NEXT ADVENTURE!  

  Below is one final video from today.  It is a short clip from Ballplay Creek itself. 



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