Above: Kenny talking to the other fellows
Lafollette Coke Ovens and Town Rock
Sat. Jan 6 2023
Kenny & Dana Koogler
Townrock Way Point 36.47731 -84.09315
It is NOT on Tennessee Landforms.
We were going to be kid free for an entire weekend so we wanted to get out and have fun. I am usually the planner in our dynamic duo. I have plans and contingency plans. Kenny expects me to have a menu of selections and I suggest various ideas and he picks from those. Sometimes he just can't decide and wants me to do it. I had gotten an assortment of potential fun activities together. I had no particular pull toward any one of them. I was good with any of them. I was pleasantly surprised when Kenny piped up and said " Let's try to get to Townrock again!" I could see that for him it was a matter of principle now.
I have made up a list of cold weather exploration ideas. Places we have gone and not felt comfortable prowling round in warm weather on account of snakes, bees, briars. I have tried diligently this season to refer to that list and take it seriously. Really try to do these things instead of just listing them. So far it is going pretty well! One of the spots I wanted to explore in Winter was the Lafollette coke ovens. We could go see those, see a couple good waterfalls, and make it to Townrock.
We had tried at least twice before to reach it. The most recent attempt had us approaching from the southeast. It was an abysmal failure. Our progress was halted by a lake of mud rimmed by a thicket on one side and a bluff lined with tire popping punji sticks. We at least had the good sense to turn around and get out of there. I later talked to Smiddy and he agreed we had made the right call especially traveling alone.
Today we would try an approach from the northwest. Townrock is located in a far flung corner of Royal Blue. It is hard to reach and there is not much else near it. The maddening thing about it is that if you could come in from Lick Creek Lane it is only 1.4 miles to it! That is private property and has several residences so that isn't happening.
We set out toward Campbell County this morning from the house.
We had packed a lunch. I put a couple steaks in marinade in the morning before we left. I had considered maybe we'd ride up to Preston's Steak House in Oneida for supper after our ride. I then did a quick reality check on what we'd look like once we were done. Not fit to go in anywhere most especially not a nice restaurant.
We made it up to Lafollette and went round to the Ivydell access to Royal Blue. Kenny parked the truck and unloaded leaving me free to start checking out the coke ovens. I noticed on our way to park the truck two additional banks of them I hadn't seen before. I found three banks in all. Each one is double side meaning oven openings on either side of a dirt berm.
That was something I hadn't paid any attention to before. There is a stone structure at the mouth of the third bank of ovens. I am guessing it must have been some sort of bin for storing coal to fill the ovens? The coal mined here in this region was a low quality, high sulfur content ore. They found that if they baked the impurities out of it they could make coke. It was essential in the manufacture of pig iron. It was a thriving business employing a couple thousand area residents at its height of operation. It began around the turn of the nineteenth century and lasted until it was shut down in 1924.
Below: the structure at the mouth of the third bank of ovens must have been some sort of bin for storing or moving coal.
Below: One of the ovens in the first bank. There is a wall of brick supporting the structure.
Below: this is the second bank of ovens. I am looking at openings facing south.
Below: The freight train passing over the Ivydell trestle. I said when we arrived I'd love it if the train came through so I could get some pictures and video. I got my wish!
Above: a glimpse at a little cascade in Ollis Creek near the parking area.
Below: One of the ovens in bank #3.
Below is a video of the coke ovens starting with bank #3 and going down to the trestle to the first two.
Lots of trash and an old power pole and a water spigot at the second bank of ovens. People can be absolute slobs. I'd like to say I've never seen any place trashed that bad, but I've seen worse.
I was satisfied I'd gotten to see the train and the ovens. I heard Kenny coming to get me with the RZR so I wrapped up my doings and prepared to head out. I jumped in and we took off up Ivydell Road to start our day.
We passed a very pretty wet weather falls on the way. We doubled back to get a photo of it and a quick video clip.
We continued up the road and noticed that the stream flowing down on the right of Ivydell road has some very pretty cascades that would be worth a closer look when we've had plenty rain. They would not be easy to reach, but it could be done if you are willing to bushwhack up the creek.
We didn't linger too long at any place, but tried to move along. We had a long way to go yet. We also realized how fortunate we were that the predicted rain was holding off. We did not have any idea what obstacles we'd have to overcome in order to make it to Townrock and back. Best to prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
We soon arrived at the intersection where Hickory Creek Trail starts. We took this and went toward the pretty waterfall down that holler. I had forgotten how pretty this area really is. I have made many a trip through here, but it has been six or seven years since I visited. We made our way toward the pull off for Hickory Creek Falls. It is rutted out and muddy and eroded worse than I have ever seen it.
The hemlock trees down in here are dying and falling. Some have been treated and marked with the characteristic blue dot of paint. This spot shows lots of wear and tear.
I walked over to the falls to check it out. It is not a big waterfall, but the rooster tail it throws up is pretty cool. The green hole of water is also nice. The creek itself is scenic. Kenny came down to holler at me to tell me two things 1. someone's underwear were up there on the bank. 2. Come walk upstream cause it's pretty! I did a few quick video shots and pictures and walked up to the top of the falls again. I turned and followed the stream up only a short distance. Almost within sight of the main waterfall is another low, creek wide cascade. I couldn't believe we'd never taken time to come see this before!
Below is a photo of the pretty cascade upstream 
Above and below: Hickory Creek Falls viewed from stream level both above and below the falls.
Below is a video of the falls
We wrapped up our time at Hickory Creek Falls and headed out once more. We back tracked a short distance and turned onto Thompson Hollow Trail. It brought us round through some exciting and pretty country to the Overlook Trail where we turned left again. More up and up as we continued onward toward Rock Creek Road. Once there we headed down to see Rock Creek Falls. It was getting near lunch time so we decided to check out the falls and things along this road then eat.
I was too excited to eat right away so I went to get some photos and video footage of the falls. They were gushing today after the good rains. I believed I had been to the base of these falls before, but I reckoned without one thing: There is a separate stream flowing to meet these falls at a 90° angle to them. This makes the steep terrain even more slippery and tricky to get down there. You are walking in the creek coming in from the side for part of the climb. At least that stream is shallow. I got down to a lower point and had to turn and work my way across a narrow, steep slope with not much to hold onto. There is a rock overhang cut into the bank. I managed to get round to that and hang onto rhododendron while I climbed down to the creek level. Once there it wasn't bad at all.
I was able to get out into the center for an unobstructed view of the falls from directly in front of them. I may have got down here before, but I don't think I ever made it out here like this. Looking back at an old video of the falls I got down to the bottom of the near side and stopped.
I sat down on a dry rock and took my time capturing video and photos and practicing with the new camera set up.
Below is a video of the falls including the climb to get down there.
Once I had enough of photos I put stuff away and got ready to climb back up. I initially thought I would find an easier route up the bank. Boy was I wrong! The way I came down is the only way up. I tried a couple different maneuvers unsuccessfully. I had nothing to hold onto trying to climb back up. The ledge was so narrow I barely had any place to stand much less climb up. I realized the foolishness of what I was attempting and gave up. I reversed course and made it up there safely and quickly.
We scarfed our sandwiches down and continued down the road further. There are additional falls down the road, but there are also houses. The one falls was barely trickling so we didn't even slow down for that one. The lower falls on Rock Creek was pretty, but these people lived right by it and had a dog who likes to chase vehicles AND people. All I got was a quick snapshot of part of the falls. I don't think it would have mattered to the people, but it mattered a lot to the dog. I was not going to let him take a chunk out of me over trying to get a photo. I've about had it with the dogs here lately.
We went on to the end of the road and turned around. Upon returning and checking my facts I see something that has me confused. The map shows that Rock Creek Lane should terminate at Stinking Creek Road. One should be able to turn either right or left and drive either direction. Creekside Market is shown on the left side. A right turn here should take you a short distance through a residential area and back out to highway 25. When we got to the end of this road at the bridge I saw no store. It may have closed. The side to the right was signed Private. No trespassing! As if it was someone's driveway rather than a county road. I tried to convince myself I was seeing Fire Lane a dead end road just before the bridge and confusing the two. That is not the case though. I know we saw the posted signs across the bridge. There was nowhere to go from here, but left or return the way you had come unless you ignored the posted signs. I will try to figure this out. It wouldn't be the first time in our lives or riding career that we've seen folks post property or block off access where they had no business doing so.
*Note to Self--check this out
Below: A view downstream from the bridge. I wish now I had taken lots of photos of this area to refer to the posted signs I know we saw!
Above: Poor view of the Lower Rock Creek Falls, but I left with my hide in tact and no dog bites!
Once we got done checking out Rock Creek Lane we doubled back to our turn onto a very rough trail that took us in the direction of Townrock. I remembered being on it once before with Chris, Matthew, and Allison when they were visiting.
It was in far worse shape today than I had recollected. It is badly eroded. Really slick and mud like snot mixed with peanut butter. We got to a point where the machine was hung up on a rock the size of a coat closet. I knew what came next. I rolled out of the RZR and got busy refreshing my winching skills. I was the winch monkey for the first effort. I climbed up and connected us to a tree up and to our left. Back down the slick slope to the machine to put the winch back in gear so it could pull. I got out of the way knowing I wasn't done yet.
Kenny got us up past that first place and looked around. Get back in he said. I did as asked, but I had a strong feeling I'd be better off just walking on up the slope. I knew from the looks of things it wasn't over. I was correct. The second spot Kenny got out and hooked up the winch. I helped from inside the machine. Third winch effort I got back out and did my thing. I am not sure what hit me, but the over all ridiculousness of the situation got me tickled. I started laughing and had to just stop and gather myself before I was worth anything. I was trying hard not to face plant in that slick mud. I got us hooked up and once more got out of the way. Kenny got us past that, but made some remark about "I don't know about this. We may not make it today." I responded "Oh Hell no! After all this we ARE going to make it today!" I was damn determined. Oh its happening honey!
Kenny laughed and I got in the machine. He had to reel the winch cable in to his liking. I got it all fouled up according to him. Type A personalities gotta have it just so!
Below is a video of us winching and finally arriving at Townrock.
We got past the bad parts and went on awhile further. We passed a spot that looked like a cave entrance on the left? No.. Kenny pointed out it wasn't a cave. I guessed an arch? No, he said. It is man made. It was a drainage culvert of sorts constructed from stone. He pointed out the remnants of an old road crossing it.
It was probably something related to the mining days and haul roads.
We encountered more rocky terrain, but it was not as slick. This time no winching required. We made it up on the first try. I gotta say Lifetime maps has been awesome! It is getting easier and easier to understand and use. Kenny is learning something new each time he uses it. I learn from him. We came to a point where we had one leg of the journey to Townrock remaining. Once you reach a certain point all paths converge and there is but one way to it. We pushed on to the next phase of pain and suffering.
Below: a cute little stump that has been turned into a fairy house
Below: a snapshot .. including my finger of a couple of guys on four wheelers. They were a large group sitting down there at the bottom of the hill. We visited with them awhile and enjoyed their company and conversation. They were a pleasure to talk to. Very nice. They had come through the Mud Lake we avoided today. They still picked the best route for their machines though.
Before we got to Townrock there were additional mudholes to navigate. There were fewer and shallower than on that first attempt. Still we stopped and looked long and hard. Kenny tested the depth of the mud before proceeding. The first and worst had a work around. The trouble with a work around is that you don't know if the person who made it was on a side by side or a four wheeler. Kenny decided to try the work around. We quickly figured out the person who made this was on a four wheeler which is a lot smaller, narrower and more maneuverable in tight quarters. There was a steep drop off and trees and not enough room to turn tightly. After about 100 adjustments and lots of bumpers rubbing on trees and stumps we managed to get back out of there. I kept narrating what I just knew was fixing to happen if he didn't quit. We were going down over that drop off. He conceded the point and back we went.
We got through the mud just fine with it in four wheel drive. All other holes of mud thereafter were less to deal with. We encountered the group of men on four wheelers and sat talking to them. They indicated they had just come from up at the parking for Townrock. It was their first time making it out to see it also. They told us there was a group up there of about five side by sides. We hung back with them as we could see the folks up on the hill were preparing to come back down. We pulled out of the way for them to descend. All five machines came down and every one was a Kawasaki Teryx. Kenny says this will be our next machine. I do not doubt it. They are very tough.
We were the only folks besides this group of hunters wearing blaze orange today. Sunday January eighth was the last day of hunting season. The big group of fellows left also. We continued up to the parking spot for Townrock. We had made it at last!
It is an imposing rock maze on the top of this mountain. It reminds me a lot of the place we visited called Atthawominee. The stones are building sized. Each one is around twenty feet high and very squared off geometrically shaped. Lots of graffiti painted on the rocks including someone painting lips around a mouth shaped slit. Someone years back made an entrance and build a little shack front onto and into the stones. It is made up of cinderblock, concrete, wood and corrugated tin sheets. I had seen photos and video of this place, but it is just one of those spots you have to experience for yourself to appreciate fully.
Below: looking down into one of the rooms of Townrock
Above: The entrance shack
Above: more passages and graffiti
Above: Kenny with our RZR two seater. It is muddy as heck!
Above: First glimpse of Townrock this is the view
Below: a look at the slit in the rocks.. for the world it does look like a mouth. Someone put spray paint lipstick on it!
We explored the passages and climbed all around on the rock atop it. Kenny pointed out that if you leapt over to some of those rocks you were stuck! You sure wouldn't be leaping back! You'd have to take your chances jumping down.
It was fascinating. I noticed what looked like the start of liesegang rings in a couple spots on the boulders. There were ridges stuck out in places with scalloped edges that reminded me of the same. Like supersaturated areas in the rock where metals made it stronger and less easily eroded. Parts around it either broke off or wore away.
Once we got done exploring the rock maze we loaded back up to head back to the truck. We had great weather today. The rain held off all day. It wasn't too cold. We had finally made it to our destination! Now all we had to do was get back to the parking lot. We picked a different route back and it was really good.
We enjoyed the pretty forest and winding trail. We encountered one spot where we stopped and hesitated. A stream flowed across the trail badly eroded. You dropped down into it. Someone had spent time putting logs in the bottom to assist in getting out. It wasn't too bad and we came on through it. I paid attention to this spot, and boy was I glad I did. It was going to matter later!
On the drive out Kenny asked me what I wanted to do for supper? I reminded him I had steaks marinating at home. We were far too dirty to go in anywhere. I knew I could have supper ready within an hour of getting home. We worked together and did just that. I had time to fix supper and take a quick shower.
We had filet mignon wrapped in bacon. Baked yukon gold potatoes. Steamed green beans. It was great tasting. We were some kinda hungry after a long day.
Later on I downloaded photos and video. I had taken a way point of Townrock because at the time none that I knew of existed. I took it standing right at the shack entrance. It was going to mean answering some questions and stirring up others!
I plugged the waypoint into the map on Tennessee landforms to see how the rock maze related to other features. I changed the view back and forth between satellite to regular maps and then to Cal Topo. I found a couple interesting things.
The satellite view I found showed a thin, powerful and very long ribbon of white descending Slickrock Hollow from high on Rock Creek Mountain. I was keen to find waterfalls so I was studying it closer. I then realized what I was seeing. It was where a heavy rain had that stream raging and it had blown out the trail! I could see and recognize the washed out spot immediately!
What were the odds of catching a photo of the moment that blew?!
I changed it back and forth to Cal Topo. I noticed on the map "Abandoned tunnel".
Now you know that piqued my interest! I did some measuring and we passed right by the north portal of that thing! It is 0.39 miles long. It cuts right under a mountain peak.
Abandoned tunnel coordinates for north portal 36.462098,-84.096053
Abandoned tunnel coordinates for south portal 36.457162,-84.092576
I found out that Smiddy knew about it already, but had not found it yet.
I agree with him that I can't help wondering if the entrances have been blasted shut or buried. I don't know the purpose of it being built, but my guess is that it was used in the mining industry as a shorter route to haul ore from point A to point B. Once they were done with it I expect they fixed it where no one was going into it again. We'll go back and try to find either end of it just to satisfy our curiosity. Even if it is open I'd not feel safe going in it.
I searched for any mention of abandoned tunnels in Campbell County. I could find nothing that pointed to this area. One thing I did learn that interests me is the Indian Gap tunnel. I saw a satellite view of the area. It is alongside I-75 . The Railroad tracks are right by the highway. There is no tunnel , but there is an open topped passage for the trains. Like a tunnel daylighted and supports to brace it. There is a tunnel abandoned there amongst that stuff.
*Note to Self*
So while I satisfied curiosity about Townrock finally getting to see it. I also got to see the coke ovens and learn about them... I raised a new question.
That is part of the fun for me. I have been blessed with an unending, unquenchable nosiness that just keeps me out there exploring! I like the ponder. I like the hunt.
Below: a photo of the elevation profile on Tennessee Landforms. This shows the shape of the mountain peak while the tunnel would cut straight through it.
Above: photo of the satellite image showing the flood stage stream blasting out the trail!
I am going to start including my line of though and post trip research whenever possible. It is useful to me at a later time. If someone else ends up using it and getting there ahead of me.. it is OK. It may save me a needless trip.
**Answered Questions**
Q.What is the object in the creek up Ivydell Road?
A. A hot tub.. not a satellite dish.
Q. What is the best route to get to Townrock?
A. They ain't one. Going to find difficulties of one kind or another on any of them.
Q. Where are the coke ovens in Lafollette and how many are there?
A. They are all near the Ivydell entrance and so far I've seen three banks two sides a piece.
Unanswered Questions**
Q. Can we find the abandoned tunnel on Rock Creek Mountain?
Q. Will the entrances be blasted shut when and if we find it?
Q. Does the Hickory Creek Trail go all the way through anymore or is the far end now private property?
Q. Is it possible to reach the little blue spring pond any longer or does private land prevent access?
Q. Does Rock Creek Lane actually connect with Hwy 25 at its eastern end and can a person drive there legally?
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks for reading and commenting. I enjoy hearing from those who read & make use of my blog. I have made some wonderful friendships through emails from readers. I respond to all comments and emails. I appreciate folks reaching out to let me know when my blog entries are not functioning correctly or if the situation somewhere has changed. Many Blessings to you!
Dana 🐝