Frozen Head State Park Hiking
Back Valley Falls and Emory Gap Falls
Sunday February 5, 2023
Kenny & Dana Koogler
Hike Distance 3.4 miles round trip
Both galleries of photos are combinations of various trips in different seasons. The photo link to the galleries begin at the current trip. Click the right arrow to advance to the next frame. Click the X in the top right corner to get to a view of all the frames in the gallery.
I have been worn out with family responsibilities lately. Kenny had to work Saturday most of the day, but I got him to agree to go hike with me on Sunday. Saturday I slept in and got some much needed rest, peace and quiet. It feels so good to me not to have to be anywhere for a change. No one needing taken to school or picked up from school. No one including me needing to go to the doctor or dentist. I got a little bit of housework done and got organized for the next day.
I have lately gone through my videos on Cumberland Gal Channel and compared them to the photo albums I have. I made a list of all the places I have visited yet don't have videos of. I was shocked at how many were lacking. I knew Kenny was not going to be in the mood having worked six days to do any extreme hikes. I looked down my list of places and realized that I have only visited Emory Gap Falls in Frozen Head one time ever. I also had not a single video of it. It had been a decade since that original visit. I decided Frozen Head would be a good hike destination. I also wanted to go find Back Valley Falls while the streams were running well. I half heartedly hunted it a year ago. Today I would find it.
We stopped in Oak Ridge and got lunch to go at Firehouse Subs. Back Valley Falls would be the first logical stop on our drive out. We turned onto the side road and found a place to park. I believed I knew where the falls was located. It was down over the side of the road and in a hole. I remembered getting a glimpse of it last February.
The first place we stopped to try to go down I took a glance, but said no, the bank was too steep. Instead we went across from where we parked and found a more gradual slope leading down to the stream. From there we picked our way across the creek side and stepped over a lot of trash that has been dumped here over the years. Yuck! The gorge the stream was in was pretty and had lot of hemlocks.
We followed it a ways as it snaked through the holler. No waterfall thus far. We could see part way around another bend. Kenny declared he did not believe the falls was down here. He was over it. He was not getting in the creek. There was a faint animal path up over the bank. We went up that and found ourselves on a finger of land jutting out with two streams converging at the end of the point.
Kenny walked up the original stream a ways further and I waited on the bank. I looked up the second stream. It was flowing real well. It had some elevation loss and cascades. I guessed it must be on this stream. Kenny returned in a few moments dejected and there ain't no waterfall down here. I told him I believed we were very close to it. He didn't have much faith in me by now. He said "We're going to see if we can just walk up this ridge to the road. You can see it right there. It is just on the other side of this brush pile.
We began plowing through the underbrush. I could hear the sound of cascading water growing louder. I headed toward the stream so I could get a look for myself. I spotted a flash of white through the trees. We had found it! As we got closer to the stream we could see it was a nice falls. It would not be worth making a special trip just for this, but it was certainly worth a look while we were nearby.
Below: first look at Back Valley Falls
Below: looking downstream. This stream enters a second stream just a little ways further.
Below: A closer look at Back Valley Falls. It has a pretty plunge pool of green water.
It is viewable from the road. To get there from the intersection of Hwy 61 and Hwy 62 (Knoxville Highway) in Oliver Springs turn onto Hwy 62 and head west for 2.25 miles to a LEFT turn onto Back Valley Road. Stay on Back Valley Road for 0.65 miles and the falls is on the LEFT heading south on Back Valley Road.
It is a winding, narrow country road in a residential area. It is tricky to find a safe place to park. The shoulders of the road are squishy, soft mud so be careful.
If I were to do it again I'd park at the Middle Creek Baptist Church anytime other than during Sunday service. I'd carefully hike the shoulder of the road that short distance and not be worried with finding parking. Where you can see the falls from the road the bank appears so steep that you would think you can't get down from there. That is not the case. Carefully picking your way among the boulders with the falls on your right you gradually descend to creek level to a spot where the falls can be viewed. The land around here is heavily posted. Go at your own risk. Please do not litter. There has been more than enough of that.
We got to Frozen Head and had lunch at the visitor center. I had wanted to go in the visitor center for a long time, but we'd go hike and by the time we'd come out of the woods it would be closed. Today I went in first before we ever hit the trail. They have nice clean restrooms. They have hiking guides, maps, an information desk, and some cool souvenirs with the park logo. I bought a Frozen Head State Natural Area patch for my collection at home. I spoke with the ranger about potential places to RV camp in the area. She had me a list of several suggestions which I appreciated. She also said that while the campground there was not really built to accommodate large RVs there was nothing saying you couldn't bring one. They have no hookups whatsoever.
We went and drove through the campground which is very nice, but impractical for our purposes.
We went on up to the Flat Fork parking area to begin our hike.
On the way we passed Debord Falls, but we did not stop on the way in. We would stop by there on the return hike. We have visited that waterfall a fair amount recently.
We hiked out to Emory Gap Falls which is a beautiful hike with something to see the entire way. Flat Fork has lots of lovely cascades, calm pools, and large trees. The trail is well maintained and almost no elevation gain on the first leg of the trip.
Once you turn left onto the Emory Gap Falls trail the terrain changes and there is a little bit of gradual uphill for about 0.30 miles. I never even worked up a sweat.
Today was a bluebird day with perfect weather. At last a break in the gloom and rain with lots of sunshine today and clear skies! We soon arrived at Emory Gap Falls. It was prettier than I remembered. It had more water volume today than on our previous visit. The rock outcrop to one side of the falls is impressive and quite dramatic.
Below: first look at Emory Gap Falls in its rock overhang setting
Above: I always like the textures and colors of tiny pebbles in a stream bed
We enjoyed the falls and the pretty day. I did not get in a hurry to leave.
It felt great to be out getting some exercise and spending quality time with Kenny.
Finally we began our hike back. It was extra easy because all the trip back was either downhill or flat. We stopped by the bridge over Panther Branch where that trail begins. I like bridges. The setting was idyllic. The sun sparkling on the water was so pretty.
We were encountering a fair number of other hikers today. Everyone was in a great mood. They were as thrilled as we were to enjoy such a mild Winter day and getting outdoors. We saw lots of folks with adorable dogs of all kinds! All of them well mannered. We stopped by the overlook for Debord Falls. It was gushing strongly today. Today was just perfect.
I could see that my months of daily, regular exercise had really paid off. I was stronger. My pulse never got fast nor my breathing strained. I never got tired or even broke a sweat from the effort. It is working and I am returning to my old self. Kenny said he needed to get more exercise and I told him I agree that it would do us both some good. I was thankful to have seen the wisdom of picking a mild hike to take him on. Nothing ruins exercise for me faster than a toilsome, uncomfortable hike that hurts me. I don't want to put him off or make him dread going. He needs to get in shape gradually and carefully. He can usually hike me into the ground. Not today. My dieting and clean eating and daily laps on the elliptical are worth doing.
Below is a video of Emory Gap Falls and the pertinent spots along our return hike.
Directions to Emory Gap Falls at Frozen Head State Park, TN
Driving directions:
From the intersection of Hwy 62 and Hwy 27 in Wartburg drive east on Hwy 62 for 2 miles to a LEFT turn onto Flat Fork Road. This will pass by the current day Brushy Mountain State Prison, not the historic prison by the same name on Hwy 116 at Petros. Stay on Flat Fork Road for 3.50 miles to the entrance for Frozen Head State Park. Here the Flat Fork Road bends sharply right. After another 0.25 miles the road makes a LEFT turn and takes you by the Visitor Center on the right. Follow Flat Fork Road to the end at 1.25 miles and park here to begin your hike.
Hike Directions:
Here is the way point for Emory Gap Falls
From the parking area begin hiking just past the gate on the continuation of Flat Fork Road heading east. You will very quickly cross a wide bridge over Flat Fork stream.
The creek here has a nice swimming hole below the bridge. Follow the trail with the stream on your right. During times of adequate rainfall there are several wet weather waterfalls dropping into the creek from the surrounding slopes. You will arrive at Debord Falls in 0.60 miles on your right. Continue on Flat Fork Trail for another 0.50 miles you will pass a right turn for Panther Branch Trail on your way.
You soon arrive at a sign for Emory Gap Falls pointing to a LEFT turn. The trail takes you back in the direction you've just come from briefly, then switches back and in another 0.30 miles you arrive at Emory Gap Falls.
We did this hike as an out and back. Get you a map at the visitor center since Frozen Head has 50 miles worth of hiking trails and lots of possibilities for loop hike combinations.
I enjoyed today so much that I am planning and have already booked my lodging reservations for Spring. I will be making my Spring Wildflower and Waterfall Pilgrimage to Frozen Head State Park and vicinity. I wanted something different. I realized how many trails there I have yet to hike. I am really looking forward to it.
We made it back to our truck and loaded up to head home.
We stopped at the Oliver Springs Food City for me to get groceries. I always like this little store. I made it snappy and Kenny just napped in the truck. We went home and I fixed a nice quiet home cooked meal. It doesn't take much to make me happy.
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