Friday, October 20, 2023

Overlook Trail North & Cumberland Mountain State Park Fall Colors



 Above: bottle gentians of blue blooming by Byrd Lake 




 Overlook Trail North 


Wednesday Oct. 18, 2023

Dana Koogler solo 
1.7 miles Round Trip 


Cumberland Mountain State Park Pix Here 













    I had my eye on a new to me trail out at Fairfield Glade that I wanted to hike.  It was the Overlook Nature Trail.   It didn't look like it was but 2 miles or a little less. I figured I'd probably want to fit something else in on the same day.   Seeing my friend Matt Murphy's photos of Cumberland Mountain State Park from a few days earlier reminded me of something.  I had never been to that state park during peak Autumn colors despite wanting to do that trip.   Today would be the day. I felt certain I could fit in some hiking at both places.    

   I packed up the jeep and set off Wednesday morning.   Google Maps was telling me to get off at the Crab Orchard exit and go to the Overlook Trail that way.  It was shorter.  I got off the interstate as directed and crossed the railroad tracks.  I had also planned to stop by the Old Crab Orchard Christian Church. It is a very pretty stone church I'd wanted to see. I had to drive right past it so I'd stop and see it at last.   Oh the best laid plans how they can get turned around by life.

     I  passed Liberty Market pulling over to set my Google Maps to direct me from here.   I looked ahead as I drove onward and was met with a big ROAD CLOSED barricade.   I briefly contemplated going around it and just trying it to see how serious they were.  I knew that I could get to the trail from Crossville coming in from another direction. I could avoid the road closure.
I turned around and headed back to the interstate.   

    I stopped at the rest area to re route my day.  I decided the best thing would be to go on to Cumberland Mountain State Park first. I'd then follow it up with my Overlook Trail hike. 
Photographing the Old Crab Orchard church would just have to wait. I couldn't even get close to it due to the road closure.  I never did hear what the reason for the closure was, but it has been going on for awhile.  I did note that there is LOTS of road work being done in and around Crossville pretty much everywhere I went. 

       
             Shortly I arrived at the state park to begin my day's adventure.  It was a pretty day with perfect weather. It never got over sixty degrees today.   I parked the jeep and grabbed my backpack and set off.   I hiked around the lake trails. I explored the old picnic area which is being restored.  It is mostly finished except for two tables that need constructing.    I think Friends of Cumberland Mountain State Park were responsible for this so thank you!

       I  photographed the area around the boat dock.  I found some nice blue gentians there. 
I also saw some symphotricium species blooming out front of the buildings.   I spied a few lingering golden rod flowers.  The Fall colors were truly amazing. I knew I'd made a good choice.

   
Above:   Autumn comes to Byrd Lake and the iconic arched dam/bridge.  
above:  the Harvest Restaurant by Byrd Lake had some wonderful fragrances of cooking! 

Above: pretty walking path by the lake 



Above: Fall brings purple asters. these were thick by the visitor center and some of the buildings.
Below:  a fiery red tree at the parking lot for the restaurant.  You can see plenty of people and vehicles, but not an overwhelming crowd.  


   
Above:  Byrd Lake from the shores at the old picnic grounds
Below: Another angle looking across toward the fishing pier from the picnic area
Below: One of the unfinished picnic table settings.  

Above: Fiery red orange maple tree 
Above:  Golden rod bloom still hanging on

Above:  Looking at the bridge straight on
Below: the boat house from beneath it

Above: the pedestrian bridge across Byrd Lake
Below: a row of colorful Jackson kayaks


Above: a better look at the gentians


    I walked over to the playground area and had lunch on one of the picnic tables in the pretty sunshine.   The colors of the trees around me were not quite peak.  One sassafras tree was golden and very nice.   The rest were lackluster.   I  began having anniversary effects while sitting here so I decided I'd best get done with eating and get back to hiking.    I needed to get out of my own head.    It can be a bad neighborhood sometimes.


      
Above:  My mom bought me a gift of a new Osprey backpack.  Today was my first time using it. I am learning to like it!  My other one was in tatters! I  believe this one will hold up far better.

Above:  large picnic pavilion through the tables. 
Below:  golden sassafras tree 

Above: I think this is sourwood tree.  


   I hiked over to the lake again and down toward the dam.  I was going to hike down below the dam and get some photos of the water.   Once I got close I could see there was almost no water being released.   I decided enough was enough.  It was time to move on to the next phase of my day.   I hiked back to the jeep and loaded up.  I would go on to find Overlook Trail and do a new to me hike.   


Below is a video of the highlights of today's scenery at the state park.




              I pulled over at the church across from the state park to program in the directions.  I looked over them before starting off.  The directions were familiar.  I remembered going back Chestnut Hill Road one day several years ago to find Copperhead Crossing. It was a former stop on the old stage road.  

         The drive there was easy, but winding.   It was sixteen miles from the state park to the trailhead, but that was far better than driving it again from home.   I wanted to fit more into this day.   The drive out there was lovely. The colors were bold the entire way!  It was a pleasure to see the countryside and all those vibrant Fall leaves. 

        It was easy to find Overlook Trail.  It is a part of Fairfield Glade community, but it is out of the far eastern edge of it.   I noticed this trail back in September while perusing the trails listed on the Fairfield Glade Hiking Marathon.   I saw someone's photos of this place in October of last year.  I quickly moved it up on the short list.   It turned out to be a decision I won't regret.  

     I parked my jeep and saw that I only one other vehicle was in the lot.   The parking area itself was alive with colors. Beautiful blue skies with puffy white clouds. Sunshine sparkling down through all those colorful leaves!   I started taking photos and videos in the parking area!



          I took a moment to review the map at the information kiosk since this trail was new to me. I had looked at it before starting over here. I saw someone's photo of it.  I believed it made a loop of 1.9 miles.  I stood looking at the overlook I was uncertain as to the accuracy of the information.
I saw another lady arrive and walk my way.   I asked her if she had hiked this trail before?  I introduced myself and she told me her name was Amy.   She said she had and got me sorted out.
She said that the trail started and ended at the same spot.  Two loops were possible. The north loop is 1.7 miles. The south loop is 2.3 miles. These were recent changes and additions to what had been there originally.   I thanked her and set off on my way.  Not before she sized me up and determined she was satisfied I was going to make it back alive.      

    


Above:  the overlook is nicely constructed, but I was to learn the trail does not start there.  
Above: My jeep parked by Amy's SUV 




Above: the tree colors around the parking lot were spectacular.    

 
   I decided since I had already done a couple miles of hiking at the state park I'd start off with the shorter of the two loops.    They both go down to Daddy's Creek, along the water, and then climb back out of the gorge.   I figured since it was all new to me I couldn't go wrong either way.
I was delighted to find that the trail here was well made.  It is finely constructed, well marked at every turn, and provides  benches for sitting down to rest if you want to.    The entire hike was glorious from beginning to end.   I did not realize how hungry for this my poor soul was.   
I could feel the old me returning.    The wild creature I am supposed to be.   I don't like this domesticated me that has emerged.    

Above: starting out on the trail it was so pretty.  



Above: Daddy's Creek in the afternoon light.  I was happy I waited to do this second.  The lighting down here this afternoon was splendid.  It couldn't have been any more perfect.

Above:  I am beginning to see leaves scattered on the surface of the river.  I encountered half dozen other hikers all day.  Everyone super nice.   Everyone having a good time and in a fine mood.  One lady I encountered along this stretch told me "spoiler alert.. the scenery heading this way is so pretty! Leaves on the water!"  She was soaking it all up just as I was.  
Above:  I have come to the point where the leaves are scattered thickly on the water. It really is pretty.
Below:  This section of Daddy's Creek is shallower, less water and more rocky.  I saw a King Fisher bird today fussing and hunting for a meal.  I saw fish swimming in Daddy's Creek.  The water in the stream glittered in the sunlight.  It was the strangest color of green/gold/chartreuse.  

Above: This spot along the river was different. The rocks in the creek bed looked like a cobblestone street!  I loved the rusty colored fringe hanging down over the river. 

Below:  The magical sight of golden trees arching their limbs over the stream
Below:  The photos above and below remind me of a poster I have by Kinuko Y. Craft called The Tower at Stony Wood.   It is based on imagery from the poet Alfred, Lord Tennyson called The Lady of Shalot.  It features a maiden weaving a tapestry by looking into a mirror.   The image below is a bit more focused on the central gold tree across the river. 


  I hiked along the river and it was a feast for the senses as a whole.  Fresh air, Sunshine. Blue skies.  Puffy clouds.   A rainbow of colors in the tree canopy.  Crunchy leaves and the soft murmur of the stream as it flowed. The spicy fragrance of the Autumn leaves was a heady perfume.  The call of birds.  Ferns with tall golden and russet fronds decorated the forest floor.    I was in Camelot! 

  The trail takes a slight turn and levels up in an area where the water must get high during times of heavy rains.  They anticipated this and constructed the trail well above that area.  So smart!
The little bridges and stair constructions were amazing.  One wooden bridge and set of steps crossed right over an almost man made looking set of rocks. It was just a rocky slope with the neat geometric cut seen sometimes in the plateau.   It was covered over by lime green moss that practically glowed. 
There are some interesting rock formations and large bluffs along this hike.   One bench is built atop a huge boulder you can walk out onto to sit above the trail!   

 Above:  Another look at the trail up higher.  I'm about 3/4 of the way done at this point. The trail had plenty switch backs making it an easy climb back out.  I never felt like I was over exerting myself. 

Above: I had to get a shot of the sun illuminating the forest from just above the slope.   I dream about moments like this.  Very vivid dreams. Good dreams. 

  Shortly after this photo I began to hear and see more and more fellow hikers. I knew I had to be getting close to the parking area and closing my loop.  I was indeed.   It brought me right back out where I started.  I was pleasantly surprised that I did not take a look at where I parked and feel like the vehicle was getting further and further away.    It was an easy, gentle hike.  I realized some other things today.   

   I have become frightened by an experience I had with a crazy man down along the Cherohala Skyway.  It is hard enough for me to figure out who I am at this point in my life.  Trying to find myself and get back to me is made tougher by the reticence to hike alone anymore.    It is easier for me to come to an area like this where it is far removed from that place.  I like running into people, but nice people who are simply out to hike as I am.   I need to do most of my hiking in areas like this where I will not be worried about getting attacked or killed.    I can work on it a little at a time, but it is going to be done in an area where I feel more comfortable as I learn to go by myself again.   I was tickled at having made myself get out and get some exercise.  I was able to go alone.    I took the Go Pro out and got a little video footage of the drive back out.   Proof that the entire drive was gorgeous!

    Such a good day and I am very thankful.    The drive home was uneventful.  I got off the interstate at Lenoir City and boy was I glad I did!  I avoided several bottlenecks of traffic this afternoon.  I was able to call Kenny on my way home and let him know where I was.  By the time I got there he had the grill fired up and was cooking us cheeseburgers!  I was hungry too.  A perfect end to the day.



Above:  a view down toward the south end of Daddy's Creek.   This was one of my favorite scenes from the day.  





Below is a video that is the highlights of the Overlook North Loop hike.  



      




           

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