White Oak Sinks with Friends

Pink Lady Slipper along the trail 

White Oak Sinks with Friends

Robert Shaw

Betsy Lee

Greg Evans

Dana Koogler

Total Round Trip Hike Distance for Bobby and Dana today

6.5 miles 

Wednesday May 15, 2019

  I had the good fortune to be invited to join my friend Robert Shaw on some day hikes during their family vacation.   I was free and jumped at the chance.  We always have a good time together.
He is excellent company.    He had never been to White Oak Sinks and in particular wanted to see the waterfall there.  It had been a couple years for me as well so I was game.   He had some information that the park service removes the barriers after May first.   It then permits access to see the waterfall.
I was not sure about that, but figured it would just be bonus if it turned out to be true.   We met at
Schoolhouse Gap Trailhead early Wednesday morning to get started.    He hikes about 1/2 day and then joins back up with the family for the remainder of each day.    Today's planned hike for us would end up being about four miles round trip and an easy hike. We reasoned if we still had plenty of time we'd tack on some other easy hikes in the area.  I had wanted to see Finley Sinks with water in them.
I also had a couple areas along that road where I wanted to ford West Prong to see stuff on the opposite bank.   

 Above: Soft morning light on Schoolhouse Gap Trail at the start of our hike.

      We had a nice cool morning to start out with.  It was slightly overcast and the forest shade made things perfect for hiking.    We enjoyed the pretty stream flowing past the trail.  Most Spring wildflowers were done, but a few late Spring flowers remained.  The trail was lined with Fairy Wands and lush with fern fronds.     Indian pipes were up in a couple spots.

 Above: Indian pipes growing under ferns

Above: Fairy Wand in bloom beside the trail. These bloom about the same time and same forest type as pink lady slippers.

   
    We stopped every so often for photos along the way.   We had a slight uphill grade on the hike in.  I took time to turn aside and point out good spots to check for earlier Spring wildflowers in case Bobby hikes this area in April sometime.   He usually tries to ease back on the hiking during April thanks to seasonal allergies, but I think he has been hanging round me too long.  He's developing the same attitude as me about allergies. "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!" ~~Admiral Farragut at the Battle of Mobile Bay and  Dana Koogler about life in general.  

Directions to White Oak Sinks 

     The hike to White Oak Sinks starts along Schoolhouse Gap Trail and at one mile just past the intersection with Turkey Pen Ridge trail there is a left turn.   You then turn down and left to enter the manway to the sinks through a wooden horse stile.  You know, one of those narrow structures they put up to prevent horses from starting down a trail they don't want them on?   See the photo below from a previous trip. Once on the manway just stay straight on the main, obvious trail.
It goes through a flat pine woods then bends left to ford a shallow stream on sticks and logs.
The manway then goes up hill and around a bend only to start downward into the sinks after about 0.2 miles.   At the bottom of the hill you will encounter a split in the trail.  Left leads to the blowhole. Right leads to the falls.  There is more to the sinks, but the park service doesn't want to encourage folks to go off trail.  Moreover,  I don't feel comfortable giving anything beyond basic directions since I am no longer very familiar with the off trail features in it.   It has been awhile since I explored the side trails.

Above: Horse stile at the intersection of Schoolhouse Gap with the start of the White Oak Sinks Manway
     

 Above:  Sunbeams shining down into the piney woods heading to White Oak Sinks.

Above: I hoped to see some puttyroot orchids and did find a couple.  They were not yet open or past peak bloom.

 We spotted a several Vaseys trilliums along the trail near the creek.  So pretty!  Hard to spot since these flower blooms hang beneath the large leaves.

Above: Tulip poplar blossom fallen to the ground.

  I pointed out to Bobby the "short cut" that comes up past the falls.  I just pointed out the barely discernible  track on the ground, and explained where it started.  We did not use it or go near it.

We started down past the large bluffs with all the interesting shapes and mosses.   We began to see loads of synandra from here on in.   Too many to count.   It was a beautiful sight. I knew it bloomed in here and had seen it, but never in peak bloom.  I just caught a bloom or two remaining in June or July.      It was quite something!   

 Above and below: Bobby Shaw checking out the flowers and taking pictures

 above: close up of synandra blooms

 above and below: the synandra is pretty much covering the ground especially on the right of the trail!  It is beautiful.

 Above: rock formation with moss and greenery all over it.

Above:  Sunbeams illuminating the synandra.  Whiter than white!

   We got to the bottom of the trail where it split and went right to try to see the waterfall. I was hopeful, but not holding my breath.   We arrived to find the orange barrier still up.  We were both very disappointed.   Neither of us were willing to disregard it and go ahead.  I have been told they have motion activated cameras in use in the area, but I don't know if that is true.  It just wasn't worth getting in trouble over.  I don't want to push my luck.   We sadly turned and went toward the blow hole cave instead. 

Above: Orange barrier up to prevent access to the falls along with a warning sign about the bats having white nose syndrome.  I wish they'd just gate the cave and vaccinate the bats!  

   White Oak Sinks is certainly prettier in early Spring when the purple phlox and colorful wildflowers dot the ground.  It was still pretty today, but not as colorful.  All the leaves being on the trees make it harder to see the cliffs and interesting features of it.   We arrived at the blow hole cave, and saw all the man made and installed contrivances here.  Warning signs. Cameras.  Orange barriers, and even an electric fence charged by solar panels.   Yippee!  All of it ugly.  

 Above:Harder to see down here in the sinks after leaf out.

 Bobby along the trail taking photos of flowers

 Above: What is left of a yellow trillium.

 Above: Grating that gates the Blow Hole Cave.  Not much air coming out of it today.

 Above: Some sort of monitoring device down inside the blow hole.

 Above and below : Signs of warning around the blow hole along with an electric fence.

    We left the blow hole area and back tracked to the dry wash we passed.  I did not feel comfortable doing much off trail hiking today. I felt it had been too long since I last did so. I did not trust myself to remember the way.   We walked the dry wash a little, but turned back since it doesn't lead to anything much.

 Above

 Above and below: Dry wash in White Oak Sinks. The bottom photo shows that the rains we had on Sunday probably caused this to flow heavy enough to flatten the weeds growing in it!

Above: a large mossy tree leaning out over the dry wash. This sits below the Abraham Law grave.

 Above and below:  Bobby had been hoping to see a Jack in the Pulpit and nature obliged him!  One was growing along the dry wash.

 Below: We doubled back and walked up the hill to see the Abraham Law grave.

See the link here for an interesting blog telling a little about Abraham Law and his burial.

 above:  a hog trap below the Law grave that is now being used as storage for their neon orange mesh fence.

Above: It is hard to even see the trail in this photo

   We started back along the trail having seen all we believed we'd see today.   We had gotten just past the spot shown above in the photo when we saw the first hikers we would encounter today.  I took a look and lo and behold I knew them!  I was tickled pink.  It was Greg Evans and Betsy Lee out hiking.   I hollered about how they'll just let anyone in here!  and laughed.  I went up to my friends and hugged them both.  It was wonderful to run into them this way.  It had been ten months since I last saw Greg and more than a year since I saw Betsy.   I introduced them to Bobby and we all exchanged greetings and pleasantries.  It didn't take long to get down to business though.  They were going to do some off trail hiking so I asked if they minded if we tagged along? They were game so we did.  I checked with Bobby to see if that was going to be okay time wise. At this point it was so we set out.   We hiked along using the time to catch up on each others doings.   

      Betsy had an app on her phone that was helping her navigate.  It was similar to a GPS, but probably simpler to use.   Bobby had his GPS running and he is really good with it.   We wound round and round back through the woods. Every now and then I'd see a spot that looked somewhat familiar.   I also saw places and things I had completely forgotten.    It was great to see that pretty area around the bluebell hole.   We went on a search that proved difficult in the vegetation and downed trees of the forest.   I was just waiting to get snake bit.    We were having fun, but I began to realize this was going to take longer than anticipated.  It was going to push Bobby for time to get back to meet his family.    Make a long story short we said our goodbyes to Betsy and Greg and I asked Bobby if he felt between the two of us we could get back out of there? He believed so. 

We went back the way we'd come and it was simpler than I'd imagined.  It is different when  you are looking for something.  You are not as focused on the navigation as you are keeping your eyes out for your objective.    

 Above: Virginia spiderwort with an ant off trail in the sinks.

 Pretty pink lady slipper orchid off trail in the sinks.

 Butt shot of Betsy leading the way. She is an awesome hiker and proved herself a skilled navigator to boot! I was very proud to call her friend.

 Above: First clinton's lily I had seen this season.

 This is what the back of White Oak Sinks looks like in places.

 Rock forms coated with moss at the back of the sinks.

 Above: Tiny bloom of green violet. First one of these i'd seen this season also.  They are not showy.

     I was really happy at the chance to spend time with them. I was glad that I have been blessed with many good friends. Good enough that when you introduce one set of friends to another they like one another and you can be proud of all of them!   We made tracks getting back up the trail toward the cars.   We did stop to greet some other hikers we met on the way out.    They were talking to two rangers who were on their way to take down the barrier to the falls. They invited us to turn back and go with them to the falls, but we were out of time for the day.    Bobby ended up returning the next morning and hiking in to see it. He got some fine photos of it and enjoyed his trip.  

     We ran into the group of hikers a second time back at the horse stile.  They were nice folks. 

We had a chance to talk with them some more.  I think the next time I run into fellow hikers out like this and they show me things they are excited about finding I will play along.  I should just go with it and let them think they have found something I've never seen before. I think it means a lot to some people.   It won't cost me anything.  It might make their day.  A man showed me photos of things, and was disappointed when I was not surprised or impressed.  He seemed deflated when I reacted as I did.  It made me wish I'd just had sense to bolster his ego and let him have his moment. 

       By the time we got back to the vehicles we really needed to get going! Especially Bobby.

We said brief goodbyes til next time. He is a pleasure to hike with any day.   I felt so grand

from having spent time with three buddies all at once. I enjoyed that so much that I was still grinning about it when I woke up the next day.   It was a handful of blessing on purpose. Like a little gift from God.  It reminded me how much I love my friends. How much I've neglected those relationships while I've been busy raising a child.  I feel fortunate to not have been forgotten altogether.  

Today was just one more instance of recapturing part of my own identity and my life!  

 Above: Virginia waterleaf blooming in White Oak Sinks.  I had never seen this here before!

Above: Bobby ahead of me in the sunshine heading to the Law grave atop the knoll.

Below is a short video taken on a past trip of the waterfall in White Oak sinks. (Click the link for info on the falls) 

Kenny was with me on this trip. We are talking about how the water from this falls comes out as Silver Falls down in Tuckaleechee Caverns.  

      

Roundtop Trail with Robert

Virginia Spiderwort growing along Round Top Trail 

Roundtop Trail with Robert

Robert Shaw

Dana Koogler

Through hike distance 7.5 miles 

Robert Shaw's photos of Roundtop Hike

   Robert and I had planned to take advantage of having two vehicles and like minds.

We did a shuttle hike on Thursday of Roundtop Trail.  I had only hiked it once all the way through.

It was completely new to him.  It is one of the lesser used trails in the park. I think there are

several reasons for this.  1.  the need for a shuttle 2.  the need to make a 7.5 mile hike a 15 mile out and back if you cannot do it as a shuttle hike 3.  the sometimes deep ford of the river at the Townsend Wye at the hike's end.  4.  people cannot see and do not know where the trail emerges at the Wye.

I was reading over the trail narrative for this hike to be sure not to miss anything.  I read something in Ken Wise's book that I had not paid attention to before.   Roundtop Trail has been re-routed slightly.

The trail now winds down the bluff  at the Wye as a set of steep switchbacks.  It used to run along the bluff and come down to a suspension bridge.  Now all that is left of that bridge is the anchoring mechanisms and foundation.   According to his history of the trail the bridge was very helpful but high waters kept destroying it. Eventually the park service gave up on the idea of repairing it.  

I cannot say I blame them.  

         All narratives either of us read prior to this hike had good advice to offer.The best advice is that when you get to the parking area for the Townsend Wye check out the river. If it is flowing high and fast change your plans.  Do not attempt to ford the stream on a day like that.  It is not worth drowning over.    

   We met up early to get started.   The day was a little overcast to begin with.  We jumped in my car and headed round to Metcalf Bottoms area to start.   We only saw a couple vehicles at the trails here.

I do not think anyone else hiked Roundtop today but us.  It is a good wildflower trail but the time of the best wildflowers on this trail was past.   We still saw some good stuff though.  

       

 Near the beginning of the trail

 Close up of Flame Azalea. We only saw a little of this today.

Close up of mountain laurel. Saw LOTS of this today!

      Roundtop Trail climbs steadily to a ridge and swings wide around Roundtop Mountain never making the summit.   It takes you past a dwelling right beside the trail at one point.  It also passes a 

posted sign for private property up top.   There is a housing development just beyond that.  

The summit area of Roundtop is a state natural area. Why? What is up there? The top of the mountain is up there. That is what!  Too many folk have decided to try to be King of the Mountain in nearby Wears Valley thus the slopes of the mountains are littered with cabin after cabin.  They failed to see the point of ridgeline zoning.  Thankfully someone stepped in to protect Roundtop from meeting the same fate.   The state natural area insures that the view of the mountain won't change.  Building a house on a mountain summit or above the primary ridgeline ruins the view for all onlookers and guess what folks? No one owns the view!  

           The climb is gradual thankfully. The forest is a red clay pine oak forest. It is the kind of ground where heath vegetation thrives.  Rhododendron, Mountain laurel, pink lady slipper orchids, spreading pogonia orchids love this type forest.    Later on the trail passes through a more rich cove hardwood zone that is wetter owing to seeping springs.   This is where you may see trilliums, spiderwort and other varieties of Spring ephemerals.   

    We walked along chatting.  The pace was not too bad.  I am always slow on uphills.

We stopped once for a snack break, but did not fool with bringing lunches along today. We'd be done by lunch time.   We had some partial views along our way.  The day had cleared up and we had nice weather.  

Robert ahead of me checking the GPS to get an idea of where we stood on our hike distance and position.   It really is encouraging to know you've only got X amount of climb remaining.

Partial view from Roundtop

The forest smelled so nice today. Piney woods much of the way.  

          I had forgotten a lot about the trail since it had been so long between hikes.

One of the main things I forgot about was an extremely steep downhill incline section of trail.

It is just after you start descending from the high point of the hike!  Wow! It would be very slippery

if it were wet.   Thankfully it was dry today.   

         Roundtop is also not used a lot because it lacks the grandstand views, water features, history that attract folks to hike a given trail.  I enjoyed myself but there is not a lot to say about it.  

The only wildlife we saw were numerous woodticks, five toads, and a couple fence lizards. 

The company was good though and the conversation made the hike fun.   

Glad we did this hike.  

       We came to the end and wound our way off the bluff above the Wye.  

At the bottom we could easily see Little River flowing past.   We sat down and put on our water shoes to cross.  We were hot from hiking and really looked forward to getting wet to cool off.  

We could have picked a better spot to ford.   I was up to my behind in the river.   Oh well. 

Nothing for it now.    We got across uneventfully.  The river looked so pretty today.  It had plenty of water and it was crystal clear.  A few folks loitered around the river, but not many actually got in it.

It would have been cold for a swim, but wading felt great. 

        We walked back round to the car and loaded up our stuff.  

I sat on my raincoat to protect the seats.  We went round to the other end and said our goodbyes.

I hope it is not long until we can meet up again.  

Above and below.. a couple of my favorite vistas from the trail today.  The mountain laurel was definitely the star of the show today!