Turkey Pen Falls & Happy Top Church Exploring

 

Yellow gum tree leaf near the McMurray Cemetery

Turkey Pen Cascade & Happy Top Church Exploring

Sunday Nov. 22, 2020

Dana & Kenny Koogler & grandson, Michael

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Below is a map showing the general area.  McMurray Cemetery and Happy Top Church are shown on the map.  

Here is a link to Turkeypen Falls on Tennessee Landforms 

    Kenny had to work Saturday, but had agreed to go with me to do something fun as long as it did not involve a long drive.   We talked it over and agreed to go down to Vonore to the Turkeypen Area.   It is the edge of Citico Creek and we had only been there once before.   I had several things I was wanting to see.    He thought that sounded good and we would go.   Our grandson Michael called Saturday night wanting to see us on Sunday.   We asked if he and Tessa would like to go with us? For Michael it was a definite yes and for Tessa a definite no.   We came by their house Sunday morning to pick him up.   I had packed us a lunch and we hit the road.    

       We didn't take too long to get there and I had printed off directions for each thing I hoped to see and do.   They fell into a line more or less.   The first place we came to was the McMurray Cemetery along the shores of Chilhowee Lake. 

Above is a photo of some device designed to work on the dam says Kenny.  

He is of the opinion it was never put to use that they have devised better ways of doing maintenance.  

Above: Kenny and Michael at the campsite by the McMurray Cemetery.  

I would not want to camp there by the graves. 

Above: The McMurray Cemetery.  The entire area within the stone wall is the cemetery. The iron fenced in area contains three or four graves aside from the rest.  Ancient superstitions are why some cemeteries are enclosed in iron.   It is supposed to keep the dead from wandering or following you back home. 

Above: Kenny and Michael taking in the graves within the wrought iron fencing. 

above and below: It is hard to see in the photos but the graves here have settled very badly.  The areas are depressed where the coffins eroded and the soil sunk in. 

Once we had satisfied our curiosity about the old cemetery we progressed onward toward the Happy Top church.

    We had planned on doing a hike back in Citico, but forgot our blaze orange. We saw trucks of hunters parked along roads so we decided the safe thing to do was stay out of the woods.   We need to start leaving some blaze orange in our packs and in the vehicles this time of year.    We did scout an area for a hike once hunting season is over.   

        We found the Happy Top church without any difficulty.   

It got its name because of the revivals held there in the past.   Worshippers would get the Holy Ghost and get happy so thus the name.   It was originally constructed by Quakers and used as both a worship house and school.  It is a very remote area that sits on the far shores of Chilhowee Lake.   It is a quaint, historic old church and the door was unlocked.  We were able to go in and look around.   There is a wood burning stove for heat.  Lots of old hymnals lying around.   They have put a picnic table outside on the lawn so we were able to sit down there and eat our lunch.   The sun came out and it was very warm.   We soaked in it and enjoyed the pretty Autumn day.

Above and below: Happy Top Church

Below: cemetery by the church

Outhouse at the church

Interior of the church. Very simple. 

Above: wood burning stove for heat

Above:  a hand carved grave marker made of native stone.  Mattie Andrson.

Above: we passed by this old deserted lodge at Turkeypen.  It is situated on 3200 acres and they want $9 million dollars for it.   It will sit there til Hell freezes over at that price.  It is not a real desirable location.  

Above the stream that forms Turkeypen Cascade

Above: Turkeypen Cascade

    We stopped to see the Turkeypen Cascade.   Kenny was not feeling the greatest.

I could something was bothering him.   He was trying to put a brave face on it and go on anyhow.    I was still down at the base of the falls. I  noticed he and Michael going back toward the jeep.   I figured they'd seen all they wanted to see.  I  continued taking my photos and video.   

Michael appeared at the top of the cascade looking down on me from 30 feet above trying  to explain to me where Papaw had gone.  I could not hear him so he acted it out for me.  He grabbed his belly. He grabbed his own butt and squatted down.  Apparently lunch did not agree with Papaw.  Wow.  Kenny really DIDN'T feel good.   Once I quit laughing I climbed back out of there.    Kenny was in the jeep and I asked him if he was ok. He laughed and said yes. He was all better. Below is a short video clip of the falls.

          We worked our way back along the road.  I could see out on the lake the bridge supports for the former Babcock lumber company train.   We pulled over so I could get some photos of that. It was a pretty spot.  

Above: boat ramp at Citico

Above: you can barely make out the bridge supports in the lake

 We ran across what must have been a remnant of the old Citico Road. We stopped to have a look at that and see if it continued.  It had mile markers along it still!

I was prowling the woods when Michael and Kenny came toward me.   The look on Kenny's face let me know Michael and I should go back toward the jeep.

He was not alright.  

    We took a look at  Citico Creek and how beautiful it was.   I could see more bridge supports still along the edges of the stream in the distance.  This had to be where the old lumber rail line came across Citico Creek.   I tried to get photos of it but the way I tried was unsuccessful.  I will go back sometime and try to just walk down to them from the bridge.  

  

Above: I am looking upstream on Citico Creek

Mile post along Old Citico Road

What must be a portion of the old Citico Road.  This road connected Vonore and Citico prior to the lake's creation .

Above: downstream on Citico Creek. you can barely make out the bridge stanchions.

     We loaded up in the jeep and headed out to find Old Citico Road.  

Kenny pulled over to let me see if I could find the access to those bridge supports from the old rail line.  I walked into the woods alone.   I encountered a siding and a split in the line.  I couldn't see the supports or even where I was in relation to them.   This is the point where I decided to forget this approach and try walking down from the bridge itself.  

    I turned and walked out of the woods to find Michael alone.  He was holding a Christmas ornament he found lying in the road.   

Above: Joy to the World!  

Above: Babcock Lumber rail bed.  It splits eventually into a T shape!

 

    It was mere moments that Kenny came trucking out of the woods with some expletives and the very serious "We're going home now. No more stops!"  

He was carrying a roll of T.P.   Michael and I got in the jeep obediently.  

This day trip and hike sure did not turn out as planned, but there was nothing for it.   We'll have to try again another day!

    

       

Scona Lodge Site 2020

Close up of foam flower growing at the Scona Lodge site

Scona Lodge Site

Sunday March 29, 2020

Dana & Kenny Koogler

Pictures are here starting with this frame 

Click the arrow on the right to go forward from the first frame from this trip 

OR click the X to start with the first picture in the whole gallery.Scona Gallery is a collection of three different trips 

Below is a photo of Tom Dunigan's Cal Topo map of where we went yesterday

   Scona Lodge was a special lodge where Alcoa took their business executives to wine and dine them. A place to party.  You can see on the map above Scona Lodge. That is the site where it used to be. All that's left now is the old patio and some outbuildings and remnants of sidewalks and so forth.

The map also indicates where the golf course used to be. It is now under water.   We drove to the old ferry launch site and went across with the canoe.  We initially planned to paddle across and then hike to the waterfall back there in the woods.  We had not used our canoe in more than a year.   We were woefully unprepared.   We forgot the life jackets.  We were thus afraid to put in at Tabcat Bridge.

It is too far a paddle without life jackets to take the risk.  The gate closes at Calderwood at 3 pm.

We got a late start.  We should have brought dry bags and the marine cooler.  We did not realize the battery was not fully charged. The trolling motor was running rough thanks to sitting without use.

    Above: Looking across the lake from the dock.

  We had so many problems to iron out I was about ready to forget it and go home.

Finally Kenny got the trolling motor going and we went on over.  He is a hazard and a half in a canoe. He has very poor balance and a high center of gravity.   We made it across in a straight shot.

The problem with that was the final straw that killed the idea of a hike to the waterfall. We started from the tarmac at the old ferry landing site.   The crossing of Tallassee Creek during Spring water volumes is a no go.  We should have beached the canoe on the opposite side of that stream.  

Finally I convinced Kenny to just come with me and we'd explore the old lodge site. We'll have to come back better prepared for the hike.  Do it correctly.

    The difficulties and subsequent change of plans caused a couple nice things to happen.

1. I found a huge clump of a rather rare native orchid... Wisters coralroot!  2.  We found morels!

We spent the next hour and a half hiking, exploring, mushroom hunting, and soaking up the bluebird day we were having.  The weather was warm, breezy, sunny, and all under pretty blue skies.

       We're still under the social distancing for corona virus (covid 19) global pandemic.

We figured we'd have no company on the far side of the lake and we were correct.   We saw a few folks from a safe distance at the launch.  We saw a boat or two fishing but they zipped on past.

No one else hiking over here.     

 Above: Our red canoe beached near the ferry landing

 Above: Old road on the far side of the lake.  You used to drive across a bridge and come over to this road til they dammed the river forming the lake.

Above:  This is where Tallassee Creek backs up because of a small dam or weir built between it and the lake.  I'm not sure exactly what its purpose was, but perhaps for fishing? It was a place the Alcoa Company brought big shots to  shoot fish in a barrel and canned hunts where they let animals out of traps on fenced lands for them to shoot and feel like macho men. Maybe this was built to improve the chances of Mr. Executive actually catching a fish?

 above and below... native orchid Wisters coralroot.. growth habit and below a close up of the tiny blooms.

    

      

    We spent time exploring along the old road and found more interesting things and spots today than we did the first visit.  I have a feeling there is more yet to see.   I would love to have seen it back in its heyday.   I expect it was quite wonderful.   I have a feeling the little Calderwood village across the lake was also charming.  Abandoned places mystify me with their history and quiet. 

     We saw lots of beautiful Spring wildflowers which was marvelous.  Ferns of many different kinds grew along the slopes and the old road grade.   We saw yellow, maroon, brown and green trilliums. Spring beauties. Rue anemone.  Saxifrage.  Virginia bluebells.  It was a feast for the eyes.

Below: Looking back across the lake at the dock

 Above: Fire pink bloom

 Above: Spring beauties and rue anemone.

Above: Violet

Above: lacy white and peach saxifrage and mossy tree roots

Below:  a rock retaining border.. maybe a flower bed around what is left of a tree


Below: a forest of native cane



Imagine our surprise walking along through the bamboo to find this stream cascading quietly down.
Below: Maroney Branch flows toward the lake

Below: You can see along the sides of the stream the man made contrivance of a retaining wall and sidewalks too!

Below: sidewalk takes off across the creek.




   Across the small stream of Maroney Branch the walk leads you around to an embankment where a set of stairs still sits being overgrown with English Ivy and strangler fig.  It is all that is left of Scona Lodge. The patio, parts of the wall, pillars for an entryway and the stairs are all that remain.

 Above vine covered stairs

 Kenny walks across what is left of the tile patio

 Close up of tile patio remnants

 In the right of this photo you can see a low wall that flanked the patio.

Above: another look at the patio and the pillars to the entryway on my way back out



    We spent a little time strolling along Maroney Branch enjoying the scenery and pretty cascades and wildflowers.  It flows down past the old patio site. A good path goes from the building ruins up the side of the branch making me wonder if there isn't something more up there?
Maybe we'll get back over there to find out sometime.
Below are some photos of the flowers and scenery from along the creek.

 Above: large sweet betsy trillium

 Above: Red buckeye bloom

 above: sun filtering down through the fresh Spring green leaves

 Above: pretty cascades
Below: Maroney Branch

 below:  cluster of yellow trilliums by a cascade on Maroney Branch

    We walked down along an old wall to what is left of the part of the golf course that is not underwater.  It is all kinds of small saplings growing up and taking it over.  There is one interesting building that remains and it is crumbling down. The rock work on it is beautiful.  I do not know what it would have been back in the day.

 above: the old road continues along the lake shore

 Above: interesting rock bluffs filled with moss and plants above the old road

 above: remains of a rock wall beside the road covered in moss

 Above:  massive magnolia tree beside an old building ruins

 window powefully close to the ground!

 another angle of the crumbling structure

 above: another huge magnolia ..something that was no doubt planted and has proliferated.  It is huge and has sent out some limbs to the ground sprouting new baby magnolias!

 Above: close up of red bud blossoms

 above: Kenny looks back across the lake

A lady we talked to from 10 feet apart... and her dog... she is getting him in the habit of going in the kayak with her. He did really great!  He's a golden doodle named Easle.  I did not catch her name, but she and her spouse and family were very nice. 

    We finally wrapped up our walk and headed back to the canoe to return to the dock.  The motor was sputtery but worked. One of the batteries was feeble and we had to switch over to the other one.
I was glad if we were going to have problems with the canoe and trolling motor it was on this little shakedown cruise.  Had the motor completely quit it would not have mattered as we had paddles and the distance was very small.  Back on the dock we waved to and spoke to a few folks and their dog.
It is certainly a pretty area. I'll be glad when this crisis is over and we can all enjoy the company of other humans again freely and enjoy going where we want to go again.  I hope though the the world doesn't rush back to the hurried pace it was going at, but retains a memory of the slower pace and more of an appreciation for the present moment.

        Kenny got the motor fixed once we were home. Very good.  We also need to remember to take along rope next trip for tying up the canoe!

     Here is a link to Tallassee Creek Falls info on Tennessee Landforms 

Here is a list of waterfalls you can paddle to on Tennessee Landforms.

Below is a video made up of clips from the day. 

The song of birds and chorus frogs. Flowing of the stream. Cascades.

 and a lady and her dog in a kayak on the lake!