Cardinal flower along Parsons Branch
Valley So Wild Blog Series
Calderwood Lake Paddle to Tunnel & Parsons Branch Falls
Sunday Aug. 11, 2024
Kenny & Dana Koogler
One of the things I've found lately is that when I get stuck for inspiration on places to go I need to stop struggling with it. Instead I go back and look at my "Wish List". I have been plugging in spots off my wish list instead of trying to revisit so many spots or force myself to come up with new ideas. It has been pretty satisfying and while it may not work perfectly every time it works!
I tried to figure what I wanted to do for my birthday this year. All plans felt forced and involved the entire day with the entire family. It had a LOT of moving parts. I thought better of it. Instead we kept it simple with the family. Sunday Kenny and I got out to do something just he and I. We would take the canoe out for the first time in a long while. The plan was paddle through the abandoned train tunnel on Calderwood and find Parsons Branch Falls. The back up plan was to swim over at Slickrock Creek in the cove. I got a new waterproof phone case for taking photos with my cell phone from my parents. It would provide me with an opportunity to test it out and learn about it.
Sunday morning I woke up feeling better. I had finally gotten a good nights sleep.
We packed our lunch and gear and set off. The Foothills Parkway was pretty. All along the Tail of the Dragon we saw yellow fringed orchids and black eyed susans and sunflowers. Good views.
Traffic was light. We arrived at Magazine Branch Boat ramp to find only one or two other cars.
One set of kayakers was leaving as we arrived. We saw two gentlemen fishing at the mouth of Slickrock Creek and that was it. Calderwood Lake was shimmering like a new dime. On the banks of the lake grew tall green-headed coneflowers, heal all, and sedges.
We launched the canoe easily today. We've learned a thing or two. Down the lake we proceeded. It was quiet, the air fresh and the water soothing and icy cold. While it is still Summer in these parts the trees are beginning to lose their bright green and show some browns and yellows in their leaves. We did not see any eagles today which was a tad disappointing.
We did see a couple herons, a hawk, and too many king fisher birds to count! The kingfishers swooped up and down the lake hunting and making racket.
Below: the shimmering water of Calderwood Lake. It is very still right now. That was to change!
The ride down the lake was pretty, but somewhat uneventful. Considering some of the trips we have taken in kayaks that was alright. The first thing we passed was the cove for Slickrock Creek. The plan was to hit that on the return trip for swimming. We kept a sharp watch out for the campsites on the left side. I knew or believed CS #2 was supposed to be just before and diagonal from the tunnel. I was running the GPS with my "Best Guess" coordinates plugged in for the tunnel. We both knew that it had to pass through a point of land jutting out from the right side of the lake. We were nearing my coordinates and just such a point of land. I could see what I believed was the tunnel. At first I was unsure if it was just a dark spot or actually the tunnel. Our position shifted slightly and I could tell that was it! I could see the light shining through it. We headed in that direction. We could see a mist coming forth from the tunnel's eastern entrance.
Below: We are approaching the tunnel's eastern end. See the mist lingering at the top right of the photo? That is really how the scene looked.
Below is a photo looking through the tunnel. The lake is far more shallow here with lots of submerged rocks. It was an interesting and pretty spot despite not getting to go through today.
We will have to return and try again in Autumn when the water levels are pulled down. It is always a pretty trip. I tried to talk myself into swimming through it, but I just couldn't muster the courage. I would want a head lamp and an inner tube or something. I was worried about what was submerged there as well as snakes. Kenny pointed out that while the distance was rather short the space was very tight and if you saw something in there you didn't have much room to react or get out fast. Exactly my thoughts on the matter. Not today son!
Below is a video of the tunnel:
We went round and took a look at the western end of it. It was also rather neat, but not quite as picturesque as the eastern end. We kept going down the lake. We hadn't gone far when we passed Tunnel Branch which empties into the lake and has a cascade on it. We could see it, but it was piddly today. Not much to look at.
We were getting tired of sitting in the canoe with our legs bent. We ached to get out and stretch. We started looking earnestly for a spot where we could do that. We didn't have to go far until we came to another cove where a stream flowed into the lake. It was also a bit lack luster on the flow, but an attractive and safe spot to get out to stretch. We decided to have lunch here. It was perfect. A stretch and lunch and a chance to experiment with my waterproof phone case and taking pictures.
Click the link just before this for a short clip of video shot with my waterproof phone case.
Below is a photo of the spot we stopped for lunch.
We were happy to have got out of the canoe, but didn't linger too long here at our lunch spot. We set off once more toward Parsons Branch to find the falls. I had no idea what locating this would be like. I believed it would be far shorter to reach from the lake than from the road.
We pushed onward to the west until we spotted a large cove on the right. We both knew this had to be Parsons Branch. The GPS coordinates bore that out. We approached and began to have doubts about accessing this cove because of many submerged logs. It ended up being no problem. We were riding high enough in the water to slide right into the cove. We were able to paddle up and beach the canoe easily. We could hear water gushing strongly. More than any of the other coves we'd passed where streams flowed down. I knew Parsons Branch took in the flow from Dalton Branch and one more un-named tributary prior to emptying into the lake.
The rocky shoal where we got out was a little muddy, but it wasn't deep, sticky mud.
We were able to easily wade up the stream toward the first cascades and pools. It was a beautiful spot. Upon walking up the approach went up the left side facing upstream. I saw twenty or more cranefly orchids in bloom.
Below is a photo of a close view of a cranefly orchid.
Below is another image that shows the growth habit of the orchids.
They can be hard to spot in shade or dappled light.
We followed the path upstream and there was another surprise for us. We had no idea this spot was a fourth campsite! It sure was. I don't know that I'd want to stay there. It was cramped and would be for use with a tiny tent only. It was a beautiful spot though with a good swimming hole. It had a tent pad, fire ring, lantern post, and picnic table made of trex. 
Above is a photo of the campsite. You can't see the tent pad as it is up the bank from the table.
I was just so happy to be out. I was taking pictures and lollygaging. I had a lot of missed outdoor time to make up for. Kenny was just strolling around taking his time too. He did not rush me. He yelled out for me to cross the creek that he had found the falls. It was right up ahead. It has a nice plunge pool that is a fair swimming hole. It has lots of submerged rocks as I was to find out. It wouldn't be a place to dive as it isn't deep enough. Add to that the submerged rocks just below the surface. It was a beautiful sight and I just soaked it all in. Finally I got in the pool and swam up to the falls. It was cold and crisp mountain water. It smelled good.
It felt great on my skin. I worked my way across with the Go Pro in its waterproof case.
It turned out to be one of those waterfalls that isn't bad to try to climb. It has velvet green moss at the base that even when wet has some grip like a carpet! I was able to climb right into the falls.
Kenny cheered for me, but then went quiet. Not to be so easily outdone he kept looking and found a land route to the falls! There was a trail leading straight to it on the right.
He laughed because he avoided getting in the cold water. I admit it is just like me to make things harder than they have to be, but I was having fun so I did not care. He was happy to see me out and doing my thing. Getting back to my old self after all these months of health and mobility challenges. I could feel myself absorbing all the negative ions from the falls and the soothing sounds and sights of nature.
Above: approaching the cove for Parsons Branch
Below: Parsons Branch Falls
Above: I swam from here to the falls and climbed up.
Below: Rocky shoals where we beached the canoe and walked up.
Below: looking down the chute at the pool
We climbed above and around the waterfall to survey it more. It was very neat. It is not a huge waterfall at around 15 feet high, but it was quite pretty. It reminded me of Upper Meigs Falls. It is worth mentioning that there is a road bed above the camp site leading to the falls and beyond. It also heads right toward Dalton Branch. I believe this may be the tail end of the Dalton Branch Manway. I would be interested to know if the old road leads up to Hwy 129? Kenny believes it must. Having looked down the drainage from the road I will say it is possible, but I saw no evidence of it from up there. The only way to tell would be to attempt to come down from the road or follow it up.
Cardinal flowers and monkey flowers bloomed along the creek. It was a bluebird day for certain. We were thrilled to have found both the tunnel and the falls! We finally walked back down the old road toward the campsite and onward to the canoe. It wasn't long until we were heading back up the lake on our return trip. I wanted to stop and swim at Slickrock Creek.
Kenny was stressing a little about time. He had to leave town the next day for a couple weeks for work. He was worried about having time to get ready and also time to rest a little. We ended up skipping Slickrock Creek. Bummer.
I pointed out on the way back that the water was far more choppy. The current was a lot stronger. It occurred to me why this was: The power company was releasing water at Santeetlah dam no doubt. The lake level had risen by two feet or more. The wind was up also.
Between the current and the wind we passed spots on the lake where ribbons of gold and rust leaves would accumulate. They spanned the lake from shore to shore. It was pretty and a hint of the coming of Fall. I always love this time of year.
We made it back to the boat ramp. One good thing that came of the higher water levels was that we were above all that slimy "seaweed" anchored to the lake bottom. The water remained sparkling clear despite the higher levels.
We got the canoe and gear packed up and hit the road for home. It was a beautiful drive without a lot of traffic today. We were grateful for that. The next day was my birthday and it was a good thing we had fun the previous day because my actual birthday was NOT fun! Instead it was filled with challenges.
Below is a video of the highlights of visiting Parsons Branch Falls. It was more than worth the trip.
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